Platinum Member
Originally, we agreed to deal with just the roof weatherstrip but after start working on it, I thought it would be best to look after the entire weatherstrip so decided to apply silicone grease not only to the driver side roof area but also the front/rear sections as well as around the doors.
Now they look much better and the owner was very happy with the result when driving back to home after collecting his NSX from my place.
Administrator
Hi Kaz,Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1
I have the Honda lubricant for the rubber trims. Is this simply a case of massaging it into the weatherstrips sparingly? Do you apply any additional sealer / material apart from the grease please?
regards,
Paul
Senninha
'Too many manufacturers today are obsessed with lap times and power outputs at the expense of emotion and fun' Colin Goodwin
S2 is signed by the NSX Project Leader Shigeru Uehara
Administrator
Platinum Member
Thanks Kaz.
Platinum Member
Hi, Paul.
There are several know-how involved for Targa model.
The key is to treat the hook/channel at both side of the forward section of the roof. Otherwise, you will get squeeking noise under vibration.
You'll also need to apply the silicone grease not just on the visible surface but also hidden section. Be careful with the roof weatherstrip as there are several adhesive tape used on forward/rearward section and you don't want to peel them off.
After applying the grease, I normally leave it overnight and then wipe off the excess.
The Shin-etsu silicone grease that we used to be able to get from Honda garage is no longer available in UK. It was replaced with Honda brand and they are super expensive. Still, worth the money for the brake calliper service... I now get it directly from Japan as well as using the products from Dow Corning.
Regards,
Kaz
Platinum Member
Back to the Yellow Targa NSX....
4. Main Relay
All of the owners who took my Main Relay service will have their original parts re-soldered so that it can be used for emergency spare for other owners.
I received several requests regarding how to replace the Main Relay so would like to share this info with you.
When the Main Relay fails, you can still crank the engine with the starter but there will be neither fuel nor spark and thus, the engine won’t fire up.
Depending on whether your NSX is equipped with DBW or not, the location of the Main Relay is different. Don’t worry even if you don’t understand the word ‘Drive By Wire – DBW’ model. The first interior panel that you need to remove is the same for both DBW and Non-DBW model.
[Edit: Parts No. Info.]
39400-SL0-003: For non-DBW model
39400-SL0-A01: For DBW model
The Main Relays for DBW and Non-DBW model. Although the number on the case is different (0101 vs 0152), the internal circuit board and the parts are the same. The bracket is different between the two. Also, on the relay inside, you can see the Year number on it. The internal relay was upgraded during early 90’s. Originally, it had coiled spring inside the relay module but later it was replaced with the spring plate.
When you sit on the right side seat, the Main Relay on Non-DBW model is located just behind your Left shoulder. For DBW model, it is behind your Right shoulder and thus, you will need to remove extra interior panel.
First, you need to remove the Rear Upper Trim. There are three clips at the top and one sharp needle like pin located at the left top side of the trim. There are several metal hooks at the bottom. Using both hands, first push down the top side of the trim and then pull it gently towards your body and lift it up to release the hook. The upper trim will come off.
Now look for a small black box behind the left shoulder of the right side seat with the label as ‘RELAY ASSY, MAIN RZ-0101’ on it.
It is next to the big silver box (EFI ECU).
If you can’t find it, your NSX is DBW model and requires extra panel to be removed.
If you found the Main Relay, you can replace it with new one by removing just one fixing bolt on the bracket and two connectors at the bottom. You may struggle to access the connectors but if you remove the fixing bolt, it will provide you with extra space allowing you to access the connectors.
Last edited by Kaz-kzukNA1; 20-04-2012 at 09:44 AM. Reason: Added [Edit:] section for parts no. info.
Platinum Member
On DBW model, you need the following extra procedures.
Remove the Engine Hatch Opener by gently removing the spring behind the lever. After removing the spring, just insert it back on the lever to avoid loosing it and you can just push in the lever against the shaft during the re-assembly process.
Pull out the Fuel Filler Door Opener and lift up the Side Sill Pad.
Remove the Door Trim and then remove three screws to lift up the Right Rear Side Trim.
Platinum Member
The Main Relay on DBW is located just behind there. Unfortunately, the case with the white text is facing rearwards so you won’t be able to see it. Please refer to the photo.
Remove the bolt and the cable mount and then the two connectors.
Replace it with the new one. I always put the Month/Year info on the bracket for the future reference.
Put back the interior panels in reverse order and start the engine for testing.
If you want, re-solder the original Main Relay for emergency spare and again, write down the re-soldering Month/Year info on the bracket.
Job done.
Regards,
Kaz
Platinum Member
5. Air Con (A/C) Climate Control Unit (CCU) and Cabin Air temperature sensor
The detail can be found in my other thread here;
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showth...?t=5940&page=5
There were lots of leakage from the capacitors and I even had to replace one of the resistor to repair the board. The cabin temperature sensor was also very dirty and was making lots of noise.
After this service and the fix on the weatherstrip, the owner can now enjoy the sound of Vtec without the annoying noise under air conditioned environment. Of course, it is nice to take off the roof and enjoy the drive as well. One day, I would like to try it on UK road in the summer.
6. Driveshaft
Ideally, it is best to service both Right & Left shafts at the same time. However, in order to deal with as many High priority items as possible, quite often, I recommend the owner to carry out the drive shaft overhaul only on one side (most of the time, the Right one) first and utilise the available budget on other areas.
Normally, I prepare the rebuilt driveshaft using my spares before the arrival of the owner but as I was too busy recently, I had to refurbish the very driveshaft from this NSX.
As on many other NSXs, the Right side Inner joint was already leaking and splashing the grease around that area. It’s time consuming to clean it ….
The heat shield was also covered in grease and lots of sand, grass, etc.
The boot was opened and the grease was already broken down and run out like a melted coffee ice cream.
Platinum Member
As I always use the same procedure for Drive shaft overhaul to keep the same standard for everyone, each roller was also disassembled for inspection and re-packing of grease.
Time consuming to plant each tiny roller bearing for each roller and there are three rollers on each joint.
Fit the roller on the spider, place them back in their original position at the joint and tighten the metal band.
Platinum Member
On the outer joint, the grease was not leaking but making some noise.
On inspection, two of the three rollers showed scorching marking on the internal wall. This is why it is important to have the drive shaft serviced regularly and I have already seen the same damage on several NSXs.
Not many people will inspect the inside of the roller but just replace the grease and the boot for overhaul process.
For this roller, the damage was still small and managed to smooth it out using the super fine oil stone normally used for the Japanese sword.
Before and After the drive shaft overhaul service. Both joints and the shaft were painted with high temp spec black with white line for the right shaft.
Installed the drive shaft, put back the wheel, torque the spindle nut and stake it.
Done.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote