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Thread: NSX Refresh

  1. #411
    Sudesh Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by goldnsx View Post
    Well done! How many starts/miles did you had on it?
    Just going on 20,000 miles. I think one of the main reasons for the cause of failure was due to the lower securing bolt bot being tight, in fact I was able to remove it by hand!

    That coupled with the very harsh suspension that USED to be on the car, until a few months ago, may have been causing the starter to shift/vibrate under driving conditions which probably didnt help any.

  2. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sudesh View Post
    Back in its place and tested and all is good!!

    Time to detail the engine bay and underneath once again...........
    I have this starter issue for at least 2 years........I have it fixed once by my garage and it comes back to me after a month. My symbol is very similar, always start in the morning or the car is cool but once it heats up it won't start so i would either open the hatch to cool it down or tap the starter with metal bar. I suspect it is the brush spring but you mention it was the armature. Can you offer some tip as to what i shall look for? Thanks!

  3. #413

    Thumbs up

    Glad to hear you got the starter motor sorted!

    Welcome relief for you I am sure. Great write up as always
    "The value of life can be measured by how many times you soul has been deeply stirred" - Soichiro Honda

  4. #414
    Sudesh Guest

    Default

    My issue was the opposite first!

    When cold it would not start, once the car was heated up it wasnt as bad however, it did become worse over time and then, it was a case of not knowing on a journey, if it would start, when I was to stop for fuel or a bite to eat etc.

    The armature in my case had some small damage, there was a small indent in the bottom which I think was upsetting the balance slightly, funny thing was, I didnt see any damage on the armature housing, so a bit at loss as to where the indent came from? But inspect the armature as normal for signs of wear or any damage, rust etc.

    The commutator can be cleaned up if it looks dirty or burnt, I use some very light sand paper or emery board.

    There was also some surface rust on the brush holder that was causing them to stick slightly, I removed the brushes and made the track smooth and tested the tension in the springs which were fine. The brushes werent too bad, the limit is 10mm, new is 15.5mm, so if your getting close to the 10mm side of things it would be worth replacing if your in that far.

    To be honest depending on your skills and setup, there are quite a few things that you can test and repair within the OEM service spec.

    Also check your solenoid plunger and contact points, again it can be cleaned up.

    Quote Originally Posted by EK4 hatchback View Post
    I have this starter issue for at least 2 years........I have it fixed once by my garage and it comes back to me after a month. My symbol is very similar, always start in the morning or the car is cool but once it heats up it won't start so i would either open the hatch to cool it down or tap the starter with metal bar. I suspect it is the brush spring but you mention it was the armature. Can you offer some tip as to what i shall look for? Thanks!
    Last edited by Sudesh; 07-11-2010 at 01:01 PM.

  5. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sudesh View Post
    My issue was the opposite first!

    When cold it would not start, once the car was heated up it wasnt as bad however, it did become worse over time and then, it was a case of not knowing on a journey, if it would start, when I was to stop for fuel or a bite to eat etc.

    The armature in my case had some small damage, there was a small indent in the bottom which I think was upsetting the balance slightly, funny thing was, I didnt see any damage on the armature housing, so a bit at loss as to where the indent came from? But inspect the armature as normal for signs of wear or any damage, rust etc.

    The commutator can be cleaned up if it looks dirty or burnt, I use some very light sand paper or emery board.

    There was also some surface rust on the brush holder that was causing them to stick slightly, I removed the brushes and made the track smooth and tested the tension in the springs which were fine. The brushes werent too bad, the limit is 10mm, new is 15.5mm, so if your getting close to the 10mm side of things it would be worth replacing if your in that far.

    To be honest depending on your skills and setup, there are quite a few things that you can test and repair within the OEM service spec.

    Also check your solenoid plunger and contact points, again it can be cleaned up.
    Thanks!! I had mine disassembled previously, it was very clean inside. The brushes are alot more than 10mm. I had the 2 solenoid contact points replaced. So i am not quite sure what is the problem. I will remove the starter from the car and inspect it again. Thanks again.

  6. #416
    Sudesh Guest

    Default

    Are you doing the work yourself? Because there are quite a few things worth inspecting and testing on the motor, I've just given the basics really.

    I've just received a second starter motor, and it is in terrible condition. The Armature, springs, brushes, commutator, solenoid, contact pins, housing, bearings, pretty much the whole thing is in real bad condition. I even think the clutch was over running from a quick test.

    Most of the problems on this motor is corrosion. Personally I think it can be saved as it sits with allot of cleaning and sanding. Yes it will most likely take longer than replacing items, but I received this as free item, so its a "no rush" project. But me being impatient, I already started work on in today. Have to say, its in terrible shape at the moment. Once finished I will run the motor in my own car for a number of miles.

    Quote Originally Posted by EK4 hatchback View Post
    Thanks!! I had mine disassembled previously, it was very clean inside. The brushes are alot more than 10mm. I had the 2 solenoid contact points replaced. So i am not quite sure what is the problem. I will remove the starter from the car and inspect it again. Thanks again.
    Last edited by Sudesh; 07-11-2010 at 11:28 PM.

  7. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sudesh View Post
    Are you doing the work yourself? Because there are quite a few things worth inspecting and testing on the motor, I've just given the basics really.

    I've just received a second starter motor, and it is in terrible condition. The Armature, springs, brushes, commutator, solenoid, contact pins, housing, bearings, pretty much the whole thing is in real bad condition. I even think the clutch was over running from a quick test.

    Most of the problems on this motor is corrosion. Personally I think it can be saved as it sits with allot of cleaning and sanding. Yes it will most likely take longer than replacing items, but I received this as free item, so its a "no rush" project. But me being impatient, I already started work on in today. Have to say, its in terrible shape at the moment. Once finished I will run the motor in my own car for a number of miles.
    I worked on the starter once and i replaced both solenoid contacts. But that didn't solve my starting problem. So i had my garage fix my starter but i was only good for less than a month.

    I will take the starter out again to inspect it. Can you let me know what i shall look for when i have it disassemble? I have ohm meter to check for the ohm value but i don't really have other testing tools. Also i have the factory service manual with me. Thanks.

  8. #418
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Essex, Colchester
    Posts
    2,348

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    Hi EK4 Hatchback, I see you have are based in HK...and have an NSX,

    Any pics ?..new thread please.

    SS
    Lexus LC500h.......New Daily run around with some saving the Planet thoughts
    Black/black 95 NSX NA with mk1 Ary exhaust....Now sold
    Red/Black 91 NSX treasure.....FI No more NA
    Silver/Pearl White/Black 1993 NSX 3.0 5 MT NSX ZAZ R-GT Twin Scroll Turbo

  9. #419
    Sudesh Guest

    Default

    Havent being doing much NSX work lately due to being busy with my main business, the fact there arnt many NSX's here and the terrible weather lol

    I've been meaning to address the horn situation on my own car for a while now and have had the new ones for a few months. When I purchased my car, it had aftermarket horns to begin with, but a few months back they started to dye out slowly.

    So I purchased a new set of "Bosch" horns that a nicer tone than OEM.

    While doing the install I decide to move the horns to a different location as I wanted the bumper vent to have a more cleaner look, plus the horns are saved a bit more from the water/salt and general road conditions.

    These are the new horns



    I Choose this as the location for one of them as JDM NSX and possibly Euro/USA spec actually have the security horn placed in the same location.



    I extended the OEM wires slightly and installed the new horns



    The second horn was placed as you can see, by the radiator pipe, it is a nice fit and doesnt touch or rub against the pipe or body of the car.


  10. #420
    Sudesh Guest

    Default

    With horns removed here's a quick look of the through the vent




    and with standard horns in place



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