Kaz,
Any idea where we can get these spare tyres from and how much they would cost.
Mine is very cracked and perrished.
I have not found anyone who can provide them except Honda and they were £££rediculous.
Kaz,
Any idea where we can get these spare tyres from and how much they would cost.
Mine is very cracked and perrished.
I have not found anyone who can provide them except Honda and they were £££rediculous.
Formula Red and Black 3.0 manual
I think most people with older cars have reverted to a can of tyre-weld in the boot.
"No man with a good car needs to be justified"
Blue '08 FD2 CTR - big, ITR-sized shoes to fill...
Yellow '96 NSX 3.0 - oh was it worth the wait!
Black '99 ITR - well, I had to have another one, the first was so much fun. Miss this one even more than #1...
Blue '03 S2000 - SOLD, flawed but fun
Blue '04 Focus TDCi Sport - SOLD, very good fun for a diesel!
Black '00 ITR - SOLD, still missed
Red '98 Civic VTi - SOLD, probably still bombproof
I looked at a new spare last year,
even called Bridgestone, although they are Bridgestone tyres they actually denied making them.
the only way is to buy complete wheel and tyre from Honda
I had quotes from £1100 t0 £1600 and decided cans of goo, even if it means a new tyre as well was the economical solution. Only problem is that goo does not solve a sidewall puncture.
One of my friends is in the tyre business and he advises all tyres once they are 5 years old should be scrapped irrespective of amount of tread left / appearance etc due rubber degradation.
so also be careful if you consider buying a second hand wheel and tyre.
Chris B N
Finally, I managed to find some time to work on my NSX.
I installed these on lots of NSX in the past and also provided some of the owners with the parts.
In fact, I had the parts for my NSX for a long time but there were lots of higher priority projects than the installation of these and thus, couldn't install them until recently.
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The original pedal assembly. Type-R on the top and standard one at the bottom.
Both pedals have exactly the same mounting shaft point and angle upto the spring holder. Below that point, Type-R one has different angle and puts the pedal closer to the bulkhead.
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The damper less joint. My master cut the original joint in the past and it was using metal diaphragm to act as the damper.
New joint installed.
Nothing new to me and exactly the expected result.
You will get extra feeling through the pedal on the movement of friction discs and release bearing, clutch folk, etc. This is probably one of the reason why Honda placed the damper on the original model as for most of the owners, it is a strange feeling through the pedal.
For me, the clutch bite point is now where it should have been from the beginning. Much closer to the bulkhead and easier to move the foot from the footrest to the pedal.
As my clutch is getting close to the end of its life, it was quite difficult to perform quick up-shift at high rpm with original pedal without any slip but with this new pedal, it's much better.
Next big job on my NSX is going to be the timing belt so I need to plan ahead this time.... Needs to look into the clutch and flywheel as well...
Before this, I will probably need to finish at least 3 timing belt services for other owners. Too old for this...
Kaz
I noticed that my front left side marker/position light was flickering even without any vibration.
I replaced the light bulb to the LED type many years ago and on the bench, the LED bulb tested fine.
There was a small crack at the light housing and small amount of black oxidation and corrosion were observed at one of the bulb socket terminal.
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Just used the miniature file to remove them and applied dielectric silicone grease.
Put back the LED bulb and it worked fine.
Kaz