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Thread: Drive Axle Removal and Overhaul

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pride View Post
    Drive Axle Removal and Overhaul


    During this year's oil change I made an unpleasant observation, grease leaking from the (gear-box side) boots of both drive shafts.”


    I’ve noticed this on my car for a good few years now but each year I just give it a good old wipe down with a old rag and then enjoy my ride for another year.  Can’t be doing with all that. 

    Well done though Heineken on such a detailed write up. 
    You deserve a good drink after that. 
    Thanks again. It seems I simply enjoy writing these.
    If it's helping anybody out there I'm more than happy
    1997 JDM Custom Order AT VIN 1400005 - Stock
    Heineken's Garage

  2. #2
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    If you have an EU model you should (well, could) reuse the metal clamps as there's no tools needed for them. The boot sets you can get form the US need the bloody tool.

  3. #3
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    These kits were from Adnan so I don't know whether it's the US or the any other version.
    Just checked my metal scrap bin and the old ones are still there. Out of your experience, do you think it would be reasonable to keep them?

    PS: Just noticed my subscription ran out, now it's renewed
    1997 JDM Custom Order AT VIN 1400005 - Stock
    Heineken's Garage

  4. #4
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    I've reused the old ones. If your old ones don't need a tool I'd keep them.

  5. Default

    I always use aftermarket straps, those are self-secured like such from Berner: https://shop.berner.eu/de-de/p/13925...icle_id=139259

    very nice: you can use this for X-ray too. LOOOL
    Bei starken chemischen Einwirkungen und radioaktiven Strahlungen

    To my understanding the wear of the grease and the bearings must be much higher on FWD cars at the outer joints, cause it can move way more than a joint in a non turnable wheel?
    Last edited by austrian type-r; 16-08-2019 at 09:40 PM.
    Largest stocking of used NSX parts in Europe & many service parts in stock. parts inquiry: office@atr-racing.com / phone +43 676 5458032

  6. #6

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    Hi,

    i still didn't understood how to properly vent the boot... i will refresh mine, i already have boot kits from US.

    Thanks,
    Nuno

  7. #7
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    Don't know what EU or US boot bands are as they are all the same and made/sourced in Japan.

    Honda did use the ear-clip boot band later for the replacement drive shaft for our NSX but not sure this type was fitted to the NSX during the production years.
    I do know S2000 left the factory with the combination of ear clip style as well as the double loop one.





    This is the replacement driveshaft (upper one) I got in 2007 and you can see the ear clip band.




    If you order -020, regardless of where you sourced it from, it will be the double loop stainless band.
    In fact, Honda changed to this style not just for NSX but also for majority of its models because it can apply enough tension at the boot end even after many years.


    If you want, you can order just the OEM double loop band as well.








    Majority of NSX left the factory with the ancient classic design band like this.

    Don't bother re-using this style.

    It can't apply enough pressure once the boot took set where the band sat and heat cycled.
    Sooner or later, it will start leaking the grease and this was the reason why Honda moved to a different band design.

    If you followed the instruction on how to install the double loop style properly, should last for years even after the grease started breaking down.




    The continuous venting method is not required for street driving or occasional track day usage.


    It's more for the auto-x or figure of '8' practice session where you continuously force the drive shaft to generate high heat.

    Still, you can use the same method during the overhaul process.
    Just follow the workshop manual.





    I normally install the longer band first.

    When installing the shorter one, insert the hard plastic tube at the boot exit.
    You can use the tube that you can find on the spray nozzle, etc.
    Just needs something that won't squash under the band tension.

    Install the shorter double loop band as per instruction without removing the plastic tube.

    Setup the bench so that you can adjust the entire driveshaft as well as the outboard joint/boot assy to the specified length.
    Adjust both the inboard and outboard boots at about the halfway between the full compression and extension then just pull out the plastic tube from both boots.


    If auto-xing, just cut the plastic tube to much shorter length before inserting under the boot exit and leave it there.
    It can continuously vent the air to/from the outside.
    It will help in reducing the grease temperature to certain level during the excessive movement of the drive shaft during auto-xing.


    Kaz



  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1 View Post

    Majority of NSX left the factory with the ancient classic design band like this.

    Don't bother re-using this style.

    It can't apply enough pressure once the boot took set where the band sat and heat cycled.
    Sooner or later, it will start leaking the grease and this was the reason why Honda moved to a different band design.

    If you followed the instruction on how to install the double loop style properly, should last for years even after the grease started breaking down.
    I've reused that kind of style boot bands and they are just fine since more than 10 years. If the grease breaks down over time it's ok for me to have a sign or a leaking boot to overhaul them again every 15 years or so.

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