After greasing and attaching the rollers to the spider the axle cup can be put on. Don't push it all the way down yet (as the grease would squirt out), just enough to re-attach the large clip securing the rollers inside the cup. Now the boot is pulled up and attached to the axle cup.
The double loop band is wound around twice, every time through the locking section. To secure it, a special tool is needed (for example Laser Tools 2916).
The tool is used to tighten the band just as far as to remove any slack. Now mark the position with a felt pen and tighten it a further 10-14 mm.
Now the tool is bend to the side and the band cut. The remaining slack is trimmed back to ~10 mm. The secure latch is treated with a punch and hammer before the remainder of the band is folding back onto the secure latch. Finalize it by using a small hammer (to flatten everything).
After these steps are done on both ends, the length of the drive axles need to be adjusted (according to the service manual) and the boots vented. This tasks needs a surprising amount of force (as we are compressing the spring in the wheel-side axle cup) and is probably performed best using a self-built wooden frame (or similar). After setting the correct length and purging all air from the boot the inner band is attached, the same way as the outer one.
Don't forget to attach the new set ring to the left side drive axle and on the right side intermediate shaft before heading to the next step.
Re-installing the drive axles into the vehicle was more difficult than initially thought. As a first step they are installed at the wheel side and secured with the new central wheel nut (just hand-tight). Then the wheel bearing is lifted up to slide the other end into the gear box. Unfortunately, as the axles are spring loaded, I was constantly struggling between these two objectives but somehow managed it without a second person's help.
Pushing the axle past the set ring is quite easy though, just push at the wheel bearing and everything locks into place.
Now all suspension parts need to be re-assembled.
From my experience, the following order worked best:
- Damper
- Lower arm
- Tie rod
- Stabilizer bar connection
- U-shaped bar under the engine
Please ensure the camber adjustment bolt is set according to the marks put before disassembly.
Note that all rubber bushing suspension bolts have to be tightened while the car is resting on its wheels. If they would be tightened while the car is on the lift, the rubber would be twisted when off the lift and their lifetime unnecessarily shortened. My approach to this was not the best so it's not mentioned but I'm explaining how it should be done: Lower the car onto a set of spare tires on all four wheels and then tighten the bolts
Now the the central nut needs to be tightened to 330 Nm and staked to ensure it won't get loose. Next re-fill the transmission and we are ready to go.
The quick check after a short test drive did not show any issues or leaks so hopefully everything is fine for the next 22 years to come.
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