Drive Axle Removal and Overhaul

[austrian type-r]

My experience is 1-2 out of 6 bearings have wear. When I overhaul axles, I always disamble the bearings like I saw on KAZ posts a few years back. The surface area is rough on some spots, like 80 degrees from 360 degrees. The oem grease is known not to be the best, so I use a better brand.

[Heineken]

The OEM grease lasted for >20 years which is more than fine for me.
Regarding replacement grease there a different types of grease for inner and outer joints, according to GKN

I can only add that another engineer from GKN responded by saying that, "...molybdenum disulphide can clog the spaces between needle bearings and the spaces between the needle bearings and the inner surface of the outer races."

GKN are very clear in their literature to state that cv joint grease - molybdenum type - is not to be used in tripod/plunge bearings, and, that tripod/plunge bearing grease not be used in cv joints.

MD may be fine for a while lubricating the tripod bearing...it may work for a long time under certain conditions, as a few have pointed out. I have no experience here and only bring information from a respected company who developed their own lubricants to work with their own products, new and aftermarket.

From: https://www.saabcentral.com/forums/a.../t-222379.html

Just as a background why it seems to be reasonable going with the Honda recommended grease.

[austrian type-r]

How can you tell it lasted well for 20 years? I dont feel it lasted that long, thats maybe the reason inside the bearing are spots of wear as well as on the tripod. It has been discussed many times that the oem grease is not lasting 20 years and its a good idea to use a better one or you change it more often. But I guess its an endless discussion like with engine oil. KAZ Quote: As seen on many UK based NSX, the drive shaft grease was already broken down and turned into ‘melted coffee ice cream’ resulting in lack of lubrication under heavy load.

I dismanteld for sure 20 drive shafts and all had a coffee brown cream.

BTW: The same yellow grease is used on Honda ITR and many other Hondas too. So the NSX grease is not something special. There is only one part number for all 4 boot kits. So there is the same oem grease on all 4 CV joints. Just the amount is different to put in. Look the service manual. BTW: Newest part number for all 4 boots: 42017-SL0-020 and this includes the same grease bottle with yellow grease inside. IT replaced the older numbers 42017-SL0-000 and 42017-SL0-010. I dont know whats the difference is, maybe a change in the metall band, other material of the boots, etc?

Every car manufacturer recommends their own oil, grease things. This must not mean its the best. .

[Heineken]

My NSX was built in 1997 and the greases started to brake down recently (no melted coffee ice cream yet), so in my case it lasted for 20 years. Grease is oil trapped in metal soap (in our case, Lithium soap) who's property is breaking down over time, temperature as well as load so everybody's mileage (no pun intended) will vary, of course.

The Honda grease is nothing NSX specific, and that's beyond my point. It's probably regular EP2 Lithium grease but the important thing is that it's without MOS² (molybdenum disulphide) mixed in. MOS² is a solid, dark grey substance (a powder) with a typical particle size of 6 um which (not necessarily) cancause problems in tripod needle bearings. That's why GKN is not recommending it and here is some more information to back that up:

Technical papers exist which say it is a fact, not fallacy that MoS2 is not recommended for needle bearings.

And I believe the evidence of my own eyes in that years ago I saw many more needle bearing failures which involved the use of MoS2, and that now that I do not use it in needle bearings, I haven't had a single failure. MoS2 will never see any of my u-joint spiders.

My trucks require MoS2 in the propeller shaft splines, but specifically warn against it in the u-joint spiders, and I adhere to this.

From: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=1833288

When looking at regular Honda FWD drive shafts these use (yellow) grease without MOS² at the tripod and (black) MOS² grease at the CV joints. This matches the technical advice from GKN as well as other sources and sounds sensible to me. Therefore I'll keep it that way. Everybody is free to use whatever they want, of course. It's their car after all

PS: Regarding the part numbers, the metal bands surely changed, other items I don't know.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Exactly the point as Heineken stated.
NSX uses roller type joint (tripod) on both the inner and outer joints, unlike the ordinary production cars with coupling style joint (forgot that long complicated name....).

Honda specifies the yellow grease (U131-15, 08798-9003) to be used for all inner joints and for any roller type joints used on the outboard side.
If you look at the parts label carefully, it even states as 'CV JOINT GREASE INBOARD'.

Honda specifies the outboard grease in black colour (08798-9007) for other models and specifically states NOT to be used on the inboard.


Addition to using the correct and suitable spec grease at each joints, one of the most important thing is adjusting the amount of air inside the boot.
Roller type joint can get really hot and due to the geometry of suspension parts, the driveshaft is one of the weakest point on our NSX.
If you can imagine how the joint moves with changes in geometry, you will understand how the boot changes its shape and the reason why it becomes the weak point.
Among the people autocrossing their cars, it is common to use venting method at the boot.


If you change the rideheight or use aggressive alignment, it will shorten the life of grease.
On several NSX with extreme lower rideheight or wide tyre with massive negative camber at the rear, I found cracked roller and even the joint was damaged.
If doing anything beyond the design spec, please check first before applying.


-020 includes the hazard statements document required by the local regulation in some of the countries, just like the one included in the brake caliper repair kit.


Kaz