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Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Is stiffer better? - 01

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On several occasions, I was asked about the chassis stiffness between different NSX models and also about some of the well known modification to ‘stiffen up’ the chassis that ‘seems’ to sharpen the handling.


Followings are my personal view based on some test sessions carried out under several different conditions/timings at the twisty mountain road, a certain circuit and normal A-road in Japan.


There are lots of different concept for the chassis setup and the driving condition is quite different from yours so inevitably, you will have different view and also something didn’t work for me may be fine for you and vice versa.


The difference in human factor (sense, feeling, driving style, etc) will play a big role as well.


For example, lots of owners mentioned about negative view on the power steering (EPS) on NSX.

Going through the twisty (continuous repeat of almost 180deg turn) mountain road even for just 20min or doing just 5 set of 3 timed laps on a certain circuit, I love to have EPS on the NSX.


For the twisty road, we used to go really deep into the corner and used the side edge of the gutter to gain some extra camber.


So, most of the drivers with this style will have lots of scuffing marks on the wheels.

If you have a chance to look at my wheel, you’ll see lots of marking on it.

(As a side note, when I first went for NSXCB event, I was quite surprised with the amount of UK NSX owners who refurbished their wheels.)


These are just a few points to highlight the potential difference between you and me.


So, here we go.....


Recently, there was some discussion about the body stiffness between NSX-T and Coupe models.

There are several different ways on how to evaluate the ‘stiffness’ based on the angle/direction, frequency/speed, etc of the input energy.


Also each manufactures have different method to express their view on this topic so it’s not a simple task.


Any reinforcement will change the natural/resonance frequency of the parts and depending on the structure and assembly method, there could be 2nd, 3rd, … order frequencies as well so without the help of computer, you are not going to be able to tell the actual amount of changes.


At the same time, something calculated by the computer doesn’t mean that the human body/sense will feel the reinforcement in the same way as the simulated data.



So, for the first stage of the NSX-T development, Honda actually cut off the roof section of the earlier coupe model and took it onto the proving ground.


The result was ‘moveable’ but not ‘driveable’ over the certain speed.


The input to the certain part of the chassis will come from all direction at different frequency, energy, etc and yet you are relying on to the small tyre contact patch that is the size of the palm at each corner for the dynamic movement.


So, in order to put ideal load to the contact patch during the synamic movement, the chassis reinforcement study was started and at the end, there were more than 50 points reinforced as well as some changes to the internal aluminium structure.



Something looks the same as the coupe model from outside doesn’t mean the same structural stiffness on the NSX-T.



The end result was the targa design that can be used on circuit track with similar chassis stiffness as the earlier coupe models.


The R&D process of NSX-T contributed to the improved chassis stiffness on the later coupe models.


Therefore, if you compare the NSX-T to the later coupe models, yes, the stiffness is lower but similar to the earlier coupe ones.


Unless someone is comparing the NSX-T against the later coupe model, most of the claim as ‘NSX-T is softer than the coupe’ is the feedback through the softer suspension setup and the aftermarket tyre used.


For the production car, is stiffer better???


Any force/energy into the chassis parts will result in counter force and somehow you need to damp it to eliminate the energy.


Stiffening the chassis and damping the energy is a different matter but the aim is to achieve ideal load at the contact patch.

(By the way, if you want, you can read the paper on J-damper developed at Cambridge Uni here;

http://www-control.eng.cam.ac.uk/Hom...ontrol_859.pdf


While J-damper is using the flywheel to store and apply kinetic energy against the input energy, mass damper is also using the inertia effect of carefully calculated weight on spring to compensate the ‘bouncing’ vertical movement of the chassis.)



When Type-R was introduced, there were lots of strong recommendations on several forums to install the Type-R Front and Pivot bars and Type-R Front anti-roll bar.


Later, when Type-S was introduced, there were lots of praise for the changes made by installing the Type-S Rear anti-roll bar as well.



There was even some home made suspension tower bars discussed.


As we had access to all sorts of parts and thanks to some of the NSX owners, we tested these claims on several occasions.


We tried several different combinations of the parts back to back and as the result, the first thing to be removed from the standard coupe was the Type-R front anti-roll bar.


For my driving skill, I just couldn’t shift enough weight to the front tyres especially at the twisty mountain road.


Probably good modification for the skilled driver but not for the ordinary driver like me as it was understeer every where.



The Type-R Front and Pivot bars changed the natural/resonance frequency of the front section of the car.


This made the steering 'feel like sharper’ under some driving conditions but at the same time, I didn’t like the way the front tyre moved (or jumped) on some of the surface and also there was more vibration felt through the steering wheel.


I like to feel the road surface through the steering wheel but this extra vibration was somewhat disturbing the information.


Similar feed back was made from the driver of the tower bar equipped NSX.


I didn't like the idea of using the tower bar any way so didn't try it and only listened to my trusted driver's feedback that is good enough for me.



So, next to be removed from this NSX was both the Type-R Front and Pivot bars.



By the way, I was asked about the reason on why Honda didn’t put these two Type-R bars on other models and although I don’t have the definite answer, I think above fact is one of the reason for this.


At Honda, NSX was built around the human-machine interface and for standard NSX model, the human sense/feeling comes first.



It was aimed for all sorts of drivers to enjoy driving this car.


Therefore, any uncomfortable vibration/noise were not ideal even it may contribute to the ‘sharper’ steering feel under certain conditions.



Similar to the reason why the Type-R damper-less clutch joint was not installed on other NSX models.


From Clutch bite point of view, using damper-less joint is much easier to feel the disc movement.


Combined with the Type-R clutch pedal, it felt as if all NSX should come with this setup.


However, it also introduced quite noticeable vibration through the pedal and again, it was not ideal from product quality point of view and thus, not installed on other models.


Comments

  1. NoelWatson's Avatar
    "Therefore, if you compare the NSX-T to the later coupe models, yes, the stiffness is lower but similar to the earlier coupe ones"

    Surely in bending the coupe is way stiffer?
  2. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, Noel.
    Lots of people including myself thought like that.

    It's actually not that much.

    Kaz
  3. Papalazarou's Avatar
    Kaz,
    A couple of questions;

    1. Do you think the chassis reinforcement bars front and back will transfer additional flex to the middle of the chassis?

    2. Which anti-roll bars do you suggest to reduce body roll without increasing understeer or oversteer?

    Cheers,

    James.
  4. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, James.

    For question no.1;
    It depends on the vector of the input force and also how you mount (method, geometry, etc) your ‘stiffener’.
    No mater what you do at the front or rear, they will have no effect at all at the middle of the chassis against a certain direction/strength (vector) of force.
    You can test this with X post rig with lots of sensors on the chassis.

    In my view, unless you are setting up the production car NSX into a race chassis, the standard frame is ‘stiff enough’ for street and normal track usage.
    This includes the Coupe and Targa design.

    If you have seen and worked on the actual frame (not the panel) of the NSX chassis, you will notice that it is far stronger than most of the road cars.
    As NSX was the first aluminium chassis for Honda, I was told that they decided to apply more than twice the spot welding at some part of the frame compared to other models because of their complex 3D shape at part of the chassis.

    As a side note, this resulted in un-even welding especially behind the rear quarter panel or B-pillar section resulting in ‘cracking’ noise when the car was going up/down the gap with some angle (one of the front or rear tyre on the slope, the other one on the flat surface). This is not the frame noise.

    Most of the comment from the owner regarding the ‘flex’ on NSX chassis is actually coming from the fatigue/age of the rubber bush at the A-arm or sub-frame, conical rubber bush inside the compliance pivot (you will notice the stability issue under hard braking before Turn 1 after the main straight), hub bearing, all of the ball joints, etc.
    On top of this, you are very likely to be using the non-OEM tyre and very tired dampers.


    Chassis is a balanced package including the engine, tyre, etc so can’t just put ‘stiffeners’.


    As mentioned above, regarding the highly recommended Type-R front and bottom bars, Type-R front anti-roll bar, Type-S rear anti-roll bar, front/rear tower bar, etc.

    With the test back to back on several NSX including NSX-T, I removed all of the ‘stiffeners’ at the end from my test car.
    I quite liked the Type-S rear anti-roll bar because I could easily break the rear end to swing around the test course but for the track session, I placed the standard rear anti-roll bar back as I wanted the rear tyre to stay on the track surface.


    For your question no.2, after reading the above, I think you already know the answer.

    I don’t know how you drive your NSX and your chassis setup including the tyre.

    The term understeer/oversteer highly depends on how much weight the driver can shift on purposely.


    There was a very good test carried out at one circuit in the past. A few NSX with data logging capability were driven by several NSX owners who have enough track experiences and although it was not possible to test on the same day, the damper/spring were replaced with the aftermarket ones to reduce the body roll.

    Everyone commented that they felt much reduced body roll and confident that they thought they improved the lap time a lot.


    The result was very interesting.


    None of them managed to get consistent lap time over just 5 timed laps. Sometimes, they were bit quicker than the OEM setup but other times, they were much slower and overall, they were slower than the OEM setup for the entire outings.


    It was the typical comment from most of the non-professional drivers including the ones with lots of track expericnes.
    The data was also showing that they were not able to shift enough chassis weight under braking or acceleration.
    Because of the lack of load, they couldn’t generate enough slip and forcing the nose to turn by just the steering wheel. Because the nose doesn't turn enough, more steering action was required resulting in big steering angle with little change of direction. Typical comment as 'understeer car' when it's actually because of the limit of the driver skill.

    And because of this mistake, they were slow to apply the power at the corner exit or just skidding side way while applying the power without pointing the chassis to the right direction and very little change in longitude G.

    So, to answer your question, once you can start shifting the chassis weight with your brake and TH pedal, then start playing with the chassis parts to suit your driving style.
    For most of the owners, tyre grip level, tyre size, tyre pressure and rideheight will have more effect than changing other parts.


    As a side note, I was fortunate enough to work very closely with some of the top drivers in the world and have a friend who owned NSX and used to race at one of the top formula category.
    For this level of drivers, it doesn’t matter even with poor cheap tyres, completely wrong alignment, etc.
    Being as the passenger in their cars including NSX, you will learn a lot and I just laugh about all these discussion on the web about how to drive the NSX, static alignment discussion, comparison of NSX driving against other Honda/Acura cars, etc.
    These drivers will adopt themselves to any conditions and yet all of them are very smooth with very effective braking and acceleration with lots of images inside their mind.

    Probably, for these drivers, there is no new roads that they have never driven before because they have already driven them in their head.
    Even they have never driven around my place or never been to the country road just outside of the circuit, they drove the car at max speed (below legal limit, of course) with exceptional smoothness.

    I’m nowhere near to them but at least, I know how they drive…..

    Kaz

    Updated 30-05-2012 at 12:46 PM by Kaz-kzukNA1
  5. Senninha's Avatar
    Hi, Kaz.

    Interesting feedback an insight, thank you for sharing.

    Reading this reply to James says to me that if we are spending money anyway to improve the capabilities of the NSX, it should be on ourselves and our own ability. Only then will the majority of us start to reach the potential this car has to offer.

    Regards, Paul
  6. greenberet's Avatar
    Personally, I’m not spending money to improve my lap times. I’m spending money to increase my enjoyment of the car on public roads. And I do enjoy the more solid feel my NSX has acquired with the NSX-R front chassis braces. If my goal was to improve lap times, I’m sure the money would have been better spent on the “nut behind the wheel”, however.