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Thread: Clutch problems

  1. Question Clutch problems

    P-reg Targa 104K miles. Gear changing is getting a bit sticky. Clutch last replaced at 40K.

    It seems as if my clutch is not always disengaging properly when I press the pedal, so gear changing, particularly changing up say from 3rd to 4th, or 4th to 5th, is more than a bit notchy. It's been getting gradually worse over the past year. However I don't get significant clutch slip. Question is - do I need a new clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder or what? And does anyone know a good NSX garage to do the work in the East of England. My local Honda garage in Ipswich has serviced the car OK in the past, but they admit that they have never tackled an NSX clutch.

    I know it isn't going to be cheap, but I want a good job.

  2. #2
    Sudesh Guest

    Default

    Hi,

    First thing I would do is replace the gearbox oil!

    Its going to be the cheapest thing to do first. I replaced mine last year and it made a big difference to the gear changes.

  3. Default

    Thanks Sudesh. Did that last year. It improved things a little but I still have a problem.

  4. #4

    Default

    You could try Kaz, I'm sure it would be worth the drive to let him have a look.

    HTH

    Paul
    2005 NA2 NSX, Berlina Black with full red leather interior.
    2016 NC1 NSX, Casino White Pearl with red semi-aniline leather and alcantara.

  5. #5

    Default

    You might want to check the condition of the clutch slave cylinder hydraulic hose. These have been known to swell with age when under pressure, noticably getting worse when the car is hot.

    If you change this hose also change the fluid at the same time as this can also degrade if not changed once in a while.

    Regards Pete.
    91 Honda Nsx
    90 VW Golf 16v (Track Hack)

  6. Default

    Hi, i'm new here but looks like i'll be spending a lot of time on the forum to gain advice.

    I've got a dodgy clutch that i hope someone can help with. There's a lot of play in it so when you think you've got clutch bite (well you have cos the car starts to move) i need to bring it up further and slowly to the top where it actually bites. If when you think you have the bite and just remove your foot the car has an almighty jump as it hits the main bite at the top.

    Any advice would be great.

    Oh i've got occasional starting problems too so i'm off to find a thread about that.

    Tim
    1997 3.0 Red NSX

  7. #7

    Default

    Tim,

    The NSX clutch does have a fairly high bite point. Is it slipping at all? Change to a high gear (4 or 5) at lowish speed and try to floor it up a hill, see if the revs fly up. See the other check points as above. Does sound as if it might be on the way out....

    Graham
    '93 Sebring Silver : sadly now sold
    '93 Range Rover LSE : now LPG so 11mpg not so bad. If I replace any more parts it'll be a new car.
    '07 Landie Defender 110 SW XS: heated seats!!! they'll be asking us to wash it next....
    '96 MX5 : project car
    '09 Honda XL125V : new hobby

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
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    Default

    Hi, stan321.

    With limited information and without knowing how you drive the NSX, I could be wrong but I think you have already partially answered your question.

    If you think you are having CL dis-engage problem and based on the contents of your post and the mileage, I’ll first check the Clutch Master and Slave Cyl if I’m in your position.

    If you can locate the reservoir for the CL Master cyl, please check the fluid level. Is it still between Max and Min?

    CL Master cyl requires regular replacement and sooner or later, it will start to leak causing several issues. Unfortunately, it won’t leak to outside and instead, it will leak inside the cockpit.

    Please get yourself under the steering column and have a look at the clutch pedal. When you press/release it, you will see a horizontal shaft moving back and forth. The shaft will be coming out of a round shaped rubber cap and around this cap, there should be no fluid.
    If you can feel any fluid there, that is the leakage from the CL Master cyl and the fluid is in fact, the brake fluid which is not great as it will dissolve your interior carpet as well as trigger the rust on several parts.

    The leak check on CL Slave cyl is easy. You can locate it inside the engine room and you can check it from above/under the the body.

    At first, it will leak inside the shaft boot so you just need to peel off the boot and have a look inside. You should see just the grease and no fluid at all. If the initial sign of leakage was left without being noticed, then you may find some brake fluid on the floor after you parked your car over night.

    If you found any leakage at either the CL Master or Slave cyl, you should replace both of them at the same time.

    Not sure this is going to be the case but hope this will help you to diagnose the problem.


    Regards,
    Kaz

  9. Default

    Thanks Kaz, Pete for your inputs.

    I did suspect that it might be the clutch actuation - cylinders or pipes - because gear changing seems to get easier if I press the clutch pedal a couple of times before changing gear. Also if I don't try to change gear too quickly. Changing down is easier than changing up - I guess the synchromesh has less work to do. Never did get the hang of double-declutching. I'll check out all the cylinders, pipes etc. at the weekend and post the results. I guess you know of others who have had a similar problem.

    BTW my (oldie) driving style is fairly benign, although I can't say the same for my son who takes it out occasionally.

    All the best

    Stan

  10. Default

    Thanks gsuds,

    There's no reving without accelerating but i feared that it was on its way out, yet another unwanted bill eh.

    Cheers.

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