Battery terminals

[NSXGB]

Hi Paul, just item 10 I believe.
I think they are the same for all years. Alternatively, you could clean the old one up.

[Senninha]

Many Thanks Simon ….

[NSXGB]

No problem!

[Old guy]

Thanx old Guy,

I dont see the photos you reference ….

Kaz also mentions the ignition switch. I recall a couple of posts about changing/servicing so will search this and look into obtaining a replacement. As you say, looking after these cars is a lot about preventative maintenance.

Questions ref the swap … I have the OEM alarm system installed which was replaced many years ago by Honda Norton Way. Would you or Kaz know if this adds any complexity to replacing the IGSW?

Thx, Paul

After a little experimenting, I discovered that my image files were too large. Compressing them got them to the point that I could up-load them.

As to whether an aftermarket alarm complicates things will depend on the quality of the installation. I ditched the aftermarket alarm system in my car over a decade ago (shortly after I got it) because it was causing problems. A few years ago I ordered a new ignition switch for my car because I was getting that intermittent operation problem which I thought was switch related. However, after getting the original switch out, it turns out that the actual switch was just fine. It was the hack job that the aftermarket alarm installers did on the ignition switch pig tail that was causing the problem. Notice that wire that has completely pulled out of the butt splice?



I put the new switch in the car because I wanted everything back together and the new switch was on hand. Switch replacement is a literal pain in the neck and 'old guy' does not want to be repeatedly crawling in and out under the dash so doing everything at once was the plan. However, I later patched up the wiring on the original switch, ditching all those tap connectors and repairing with proper uninsulated closed barrel crimps and heat shrink tubing, cleaned and lubricated the switch contacts with conducting grease and the switch works just fine. It is now a spare that I will probably never need in my lifetime.



Just about all aftermarket alarm systems need to tie into the connections that go to the ignition switch. There are a number of places that they can do this. For installers that are not NSX specialists the ignition switch pigtail provides a convenient location. This can be done nicely or it can be a bodge like mine. So chances are that your aftermarket alarm install will have connections going to the ignition switch. If those connections are on the pigtail side of the switch you will need to replicate them if you want to retain the aftermarket alarm system so that complicates things. If the connections were done on the body side of the vehicle wiring harness then you don't need to touch them and it may just be a case of 'in, out and away you go'.

All will depend on what surprises you find when you get in there. You didn't mention the aftermarket alarm system in your original post. My personal opinion is that they are an instrument of the devil in terms of compromising reliability. Have a very close look at the wiring associated with the aftermarket alarm as your intermittent operation might not be associated with the ignition switch. However, a new ignition switch on a 20+ year old car would never be a bad thing.

[Old guy]

Found this on Prime as how to test the IGSW ….

I had the same problem a year ago and my car would start then it would immediatly die. Here is how I determined that it was the switch, turn the key to start the car and when the car starts release the key back a little bit (not all the way back to where the factory return is)and the car will stay running, but play around and let the key return to were it usually does the car will probably die. Inside the ignition switch it is spring loaded to where the key returns after the car is started and when that starts to wear out then the key returns to any spot, most likely the off spot.

Posting and seeking approval from my more technical friends please …. Thx, P

If you go to NSXPrime you will find links to the 1991 service manual. In the electrical section on page 23-72 there is a test procedure for checking the switch. However, this test procedure requires permanent failure to catch the problem. If the problem is intermittent the switch may pass at the time it is being tested.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Paul.

Used to be reasonably priced aftermarket one available on Rockauto.

britlude – aka Jonathan had good experience;
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.ph...469#post120469

Please check on Rockauto but at the current exchange rate, probably just get the OEM one from Japan.

Please note that majority of Japanese companies are in the middle of new year holiday season.
Should be back from next week.

Also, Honda Japan revised the parts price on the new year’s day.
Therefore, the latest price may change.

On few occasions, I saw security people created breakout loom on the IGSW cable.
Hope it’s not the case on yours.



While some reported that removing the 2 x tiny screws at the back of the key cyl holding the IGSW cable was challenging,
I found it more difficult to separate this 250 brown connector from the cabin loom.




How to test the IGSW on our NSX.
Please watch it in Youtube and read the description for further info.

In fact, I'll cut & paste it.

How to test the IGnition SWitch (IGSW) on Honda/Acura NSX.
No need starting the engine.
Turn IGSW into P2 ON. Lots of lights on the dash.
Keep eye on the Volt Gauge.
Turn IGSW towards P3 START (cranking) just a tiny bit and try NOT to start the engine.
Quickly release the key to let it return to P2 ON.
On many occasions (especially after 0:19), you'll notice the volt gauge dropping while wiggling the IG Key.
This should not happen and the main cause is the fretting corrosion between switch contacts.
As a temporary fix, you could clean them using the fibreglass pen, old school pencil with eraser at the top or 3000 - 5000 grit sand paper.

Took this video 11 years ago at lower resolution so not great quality but hope you can get the idea.
No need starting the engine.
In fact, try not to for this test method.



Contaminated IGSW terminals
Before/After

While waiting for the new parts to arrive, you can clean the terminals on the existing one.
If this is the first time doing this, it will help on re-assembly by marking the IGSW barrel/body at P0 OFF position so that you know how it came off from the key cyl.

You can use fibreglass pen, old school pencil with the eraser at the top or gently polish with 3000-5000 grit paper.

Probably I went too far polishing the contacts on this one but at least, it served the purpose for years.


Kaz

[Senninha]

Thanks for the video and accompanying details … I have a project to be getting on with but that will hav to wait a couple of weeks due to other commitments …

Thanks all for support … I love NSXCB …

[Senninha]

We’re back! We being the NSX and myself. After several incidents with the car randomly cutting out I have been through a process of replacing several parts as logical contributors to the situation.

As always, a large thanks to all who offered thoughts and guidance in recent months. After some basic checks I had thought I would simply transport to Norton Way and let them diagnose and fix. When I enquired they said the wanted an hour of diagnostics followed by any remedial actions which seemed fair enough.

A few weeks later with a new IGSW I called to book the NSX in only to be told they had changed policy and now wanted 3 HOURs of diagnostics … add to this transport costs and it would have been close on £600 before actually fixing anything. The reason for the change was they have had a couple of NSX with issues and taken a lot longer to diagnose so the management have decided to implement this new approach with NSX diagnostics.

So to plan B, my local AC specialist and service centre has a tech who is a Honda enthusiast and was familiar with reading the codes and worked on my NSX when I did an AC refresh a few years back. Booked in and with parts ready, Steve changed the IGSW switch (which had been tapped into by Honda when they installed the alarm!), and changed for a new fuel filter, thanks to Duncan for the Suzuki Swift tip! I had installed the new resistor and on returning home gave the car a long overdue clean and checked all other levels and pressures as planned to be out this morning.

Today I covered around 100 miles during which I attempted to replicate each scenario in which the NSX had previously cut out … and very pleasingly suffered no repetition. As confidence grew I steadily increased the use of the performance across acceleration and high(er) speed runs and all seems to be back to normal …. Very happy.

So as I said, many thanks to all who commented above and privately and I look forward to catching up with you soon … time to check the events lists ….. oh yes, the total repair cost with clever purchasing and local tech support was considerably less than taking the NSX back to Honda.

[L696ULO]

Welcome back Paul

The next event is this Saturday 24th at Gaydon?

regards Rich

[PeterW]

After getting the same symptoms, I dismantled my IGSW, cleaned up the terminals and it's been working fine ever since. My NSX has a Hamilton & Palmer immobiliser wired into the IGSW harness which was a right pain to sort out. I put it back together with bullet connectors so if I have to take the switch out again, it will be easier to disconnect. Not sure if that's an "approved" way to do it, but it seems to be OK.

It's definitely good advice to replace the switch with a new one though. It wasn't much fun limbo dancing into the foot well and it would be nice if I never have to do it again.