engine deciding to stop...

[britlude]

twice, i've had the car decide to stall on me.... the first time it just stopped as i was pulling around corner, no power, rev counter drops to zero, and it goes quiet... fortunately i could pull over, restart and carry on as before, no CEL warning, just a blip....

the second time i was just approaching Peters bridge across the medway, 2 lanes, solid white line and it died as I was going downhill on the approach..... around point A, heading right... don't panic, into neutral, i have momentum, no warnings on the dash, apart from oil and charge... try to restart whilst rolling, fires but not running..... BMW behind wondering why i'm slowing.... try to restart again, again initial fire but can't run.... eventually make it to the crest of the bridge and begin to pick up speed, much to the BMWs delight!, manage to roll off the bridge, the roundabout was clear and parked at B
Screenshot_20250314_130224 by JON SUTH, on Flickr

by now the CEL had come on, so at least i would have a clue.... flick my magic OBD switch... code 47.... check the manual, that's in the boot....fuel pump

the 2 main bits in the fuel pump system, apart from the pump, is the main relay that gives it power, and the fuel resistor in series that limits the power when its not in Vtec..... so pop off the rear 'shelf' cover so i can get to the main relay, unplug it, plug it back in, give it a little percussive maintenance (hit it) and try for a start..... at least i think i tried for a start as i'd be sitting in the car and wouldn't have tried the next bit if it had started. or I just did the next bit anyway, i can't remember!

the next bit... open the engine cover and give the fuel resistor a disconnect/reconnect, wobble, etc! tried to restart, and the car fired up, and was happy for the rest of the several hours drive that day.....

now i already have a spare main relay, but once home took it off and reflowed all the solder joints, just in case, and ordered up a shiny new fuel pump resistor

the old resistor... doesnt look too bad... just old, and may have dodgy wire corrosion...
IMG_20250314_105834 by JON SUTH, on Flickr

and the shiny new one....
IMG_20250314_095809 by JON SUTH, on Flickr

fingers crossed, touch wood, etc, it won't misbehave again! and i have to give the firewall a wipe over!

[sorepaws]

Could be helpful - underlying the main point "Resistance is futile" - sorry :-S - is this another part I have to add to my spares store?

[Senninha]

Hi Jonathan,

Pleased to read the BMW driver gave you space and didn’t rear end you! If the IGSW replacement isnt the cause of my issue, he fuel resistor is next item. May I ask where you sourced and he cost please … Thx in advance, Paul

[britlude]

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/honda/16717pr7j01

tho i did buy it with other parts to dilute the shipping!

[duncan]

A view from the cheap seats.
The fuel resistor block and its insulation is pretty generic. A look on eBay will show similar units as fitted to (say) Mazda RX8s and various Luxus models. Similar supplier (Denso), size, mountings and resistance (marked as 0.32 ohms) at a variety of prices.
I picked up a Mazda RX8 resistor delivered for under £8. The only difference being the plug on the end of the wire.
I culled the populated end of the unused socket attached to my expansion tank (see link http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.ph...tify-connector ) and re-pinned it to give me a plug and play adaption.
This source will obviously only work if you have 1995 on Coupe and my thanks again to Kaz for identifying it’s function.
Other than that the option, in event of a failure, is to re-use the socket from the failed resistor.
By inspection the resistors from Lexus cars show a different socket/ plug but the methodology remains the same.
Whether I will ever need this as a spare I don’t know, but for money it seems an easy decision.
Duncan