Failed MOT - driver side headlamp

[Bonners]

Hey guys,

For one reason or another it’s been a terrible year for NSX use but wanted to get her serviced and MOT’d just to keep the records straight.

I did fire her up earlier in the year and all seemed fine, but then didn’t connect the charger properly (I assume) so battery died. Sat idle in the garage over the summer as work kicked my backside so had to jump her to get her going and over to Aberdeen Honda.

MOT failed due to an issue with driver side (R) headlamp. Apparently there’s 2 manual knobs for adjusting light position (seized apparently) and also an automatic/motorised adjustment. The solution suggested is to order part # 33100-SL0-E03. Not a cheap part and won’t be delivered until late Feb. Initially I’d thought I could just get a less strict garage to get my MOT pass as I’m a fair weather, maybe 1000 miles, day driver so no big deal. On getting the car home however I hear the motor for the headlamp continually whirrs, when key turned. Stops when I switch off the car…which is why Honda’s suggestion that it was perhaps this motor that drained the battery seems unlikely/impossible. So the headlamp rises and drops no issue, the issue appears to be with the self levelling motor assembly.

Had a rummage through some similar problems and see parallels, but as I’m pretty mechanically inept I thought I would also raise a new query. Please just redirect me if this has been discussed to death and I’ve simply not found the thread yet.

On a brighter note, obviously I drove straight home and did not drive over any of my favourite roads, but even still the car was immense. What a howl as you let the revs climb, love it..

[mutley]

I've had something similar on my last MoT, although we did "cheat" by using the manual wind up/ down adjusters to change the height of the lights. This was only possible as I still had a slight issue with my lights going up and down as they should, and prob won't work on yours as if you try to wind up / down, I think the motor kicks in and put it back to the fully open position. Worth a try though

Cheers,
Jim

[NZNick]

Bonners - the part number suggested to you is for the entire headlamp assembly, which as you say is quite pricey.
The adjuster is available seperately - see part number 33129-SLO-N11
Not sure if this will work in your case, but is about a tenth of the cost of the suggested part.

[RedCarsGoFaster]

Bonners - the part number suggested to you is for the entire headlamp assembly, which as you say is quite pricey.
The adjuster is available seperately - see part number 33129-SLO-N11
Not sure if this will work in your case, but is about a tenth of the cost of the suggested part.

Need to add a clarification here - it isn't made at all clear on parts diagrams, but the part number quoted is the JDM and USDM mechanical adjuster for the headlight assembly. European cars had a different headlight adjuster assembly, with three-position electrical height adjustment from a rotary knob in the cabin. The two headlight adjuster assemblies are not interchangeable between JDM/US and European spec headlights - ask me how I know!

The failure of the electrical adjuster assembly is yet another effect of the dreaded capacitor leakage within the printed circuit board assemblies. This sometimes can be repaired by replacement of the capacitors if the leakage has not damaged the circuit board or other components.

As you've found, the electrical adjuster is not spared separately from the complete headlight assembly. Looking at the parts diagram, I believe it's part of the wiring harness for the headlight, which doesn't even get its own part number. If you're very lucky, the harness might be common between LHD and RHD headlight assemblies, and Christian at ATR might have one from a broken European car.

Depending on how good you are with DIY and electrical, removing the adjuster assembly and cracking it open to attempt a PCB repair by component replacement might be worth your time. I know Kaz does a lot of electrical repairs on NSX parts, and Heineken occasionally posts the results of his handiwork for European owners. You could ask either of them to have a look, or take the adjuster assembly to anyone capable of PCB repair with some guidance notes.

Be warned that availability of European-spec parts is often poor due to the low number of cars made for this market, and the unique combination of right-hand-angled headlights with an electrical adjuster mechanism for the UK market will be the rarest headlight spec of the lot. If you can get a new UK-spec RHD headlight assembly it'll be worth its weight in gold, but I would be worried about Honda's capability to ultimately supply it.

[Nick Graves]

Getting a lot of 'NLA' on those part numbers.

Best to pull out the unit & check that it is actually defective.

If it's just a case of seized mechanical pivots you will save yourself a lot of heartache.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

This subject always reminds me of the discussion with late goldnsx.

Mine is JDM so doesn’t have this motorised levelling adjuster but from what I heard from him, it's addition to the –A01/-N11 manual adjuster.
The main adjustment is done through the manual adjuster.

From the FB group, one European owner kindly took several photos of the actual electrical components and yes indeed, there are 2 green capacitors leaking heavily.

Some of the failure modes were caused by the gear shaft within this motorised adjuster disintegrated from the mating thread inside the adjuster case.
This will result in motor spinning intermittently or continuously depending on the position of the feedback sliding resistor block.


To pass MOT, you need to have the correct beam pattern/alignment AND if the car is equipped with the adjuster that can be operated from the driver’s seat, this must be operational as well.

So, first try these steps.

1. There are 4 x small 10mm bolts holding the headlight assy/unit.
If you loosen these bolts, there is enough play at the bolt hole that you can make fair amount of height adjustment.
Quite often, you can get the alignment within MOT requirement by this method.
On my garage door, I marked the beam pattern immediately after passing the MOT so I use it as the reference for the next MOT.
My NSX has Type-S suspension and slightly different F/R rake from standard spec so can't be used for other NSX but still, close enough.

To access these 4 bolts, you’ll need to first remove the plastic headlight cover.
When re-installing, first make sure to set the cover as forward as possible before making the final adjustment.
Otherwise, when you raise/pop-up the headlight with the bonnet closed, the edge of the cover may catch the bonnet.

2. With the plastic cover off, check the operation of the manual adjusters. Two at each unit/side.
The long threaded shaft is heavily corroded by now.
When you operate the manual adjuster, this shaft should not rotate.

3. The motorised adjuster is actually at the lower/bottom side of the headlight unit.
If you can, remove the headlight unit (4 x small 10mm bolts, as mentioned above + disconnect the grey connector at the centre).
In order to remove the motorised adjuster, I’m afraid you will need to de-pin some of the terminals from the grey connector unless you are willing to deal with the wires inside the headlight unit.

If you acted early enough, the leaky capacitor may have not damaged the black flat HIC module yet.
The other big module is the motor driver and I think it could be the same one used on the A/C CCU board.

If you manged to remove it, then I can take a look at it.

Kaz