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Thread: Jaffaz32's Boosted Stroker Build

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    Then over the next few weeks/months the car started playing up. Cody talked me through looking in the logs the power cut was the Infinity going in to limp mode due to the oil pressure once again. From there i changed the oil again but removing my billet purepower reusable filter to a normal type, eliminated and tested all oil related things i could externally, bypassing external oil coolers, new sensors. I tested the oil pressure per manual with a mechanical gauge. The issue appeared to be internal.

    Now the Dilemma i faced.

    Specialist garages charge crazy money. I didn't want to pay to have the engine removed and stripped just to be inspected as i would had to wait months for any parts or what if it was something major like a crank, full motor build etc. After speaking with Cody and going through different scenarios i decided to go on the basis of worst case. It sounds a little crazy but... it's so hard to get parts here and with the unknown of what was wrong or involved, i opted for a full build because i would have a car that is mechanically sound and trouble free with the peace of mind and confidence to drive. I thought to myself i've been here before!! my 300zx built motor blew up after a month. So i decided to over spec the motor for a element of safety. I can only afford to do this once so do it right. There was a possibility the bearing had gone due to the symptoms and going on worst case i decided the crank had to be replaced to be on the safe side. this meant stroker kits, i spec'd the engine for around 800-1000bhp i wanted to tick every box and dot every I.

    I contacted several garages and specialists and decided to take my car to Plans Performance.

    As we speak the car is currently in bits and with Plans, they were just as excited as myself when dropping the car off to be working on this project. The motor is apart and with the machine shop as of typing. They found that one of the bearings had gone. They have sent a comprehensive email with a to do list of other things they have found that needs addressing which is good as again I know in the back of my mind that the car will come home completely mechanically sound. So far so good with Plans but a little anxious based on my past experience with garages, time will tell.

    I will post a complete spec list later with more details and info but this is a start at least.


    So as you can see i have had my share of bad luck in terms of cars, i'm a decent guy and garages take advantages of this and stitch me up in the past. I'm a little nervous but very excited.



    - - - Updated - - -

    When i spec'd the motor i wanted to replace everything oem while building.

    I ordered the oem motor rebuild kits (these do not contain everything)

    I then went online and printed off the exploded diagrams for the motor, oil systems, wiring, throttle body etc. etc.

    I then cross referenced what parts i had and ordered every single gasket, seal, grommet and including all brand new sensors for everything... Some sensors were expensive like the knock and crank angle but as mentioned above i could only do this the once and needed it to be trouble free motoring.

    I wanted to spend a little extra now to ensure i had a brand new motor for complete reliability and trouble free motoring.

  2. #2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jaffaz32 View Post
    Then over the next few weeks/months the car started playing up. Cody talked me through looking in the logs the power cut was the Infinity going in to limp mode due to the oil pressure once again. From there i changed the oil again but removing my billet purepower reusable filter to a normal type, eliminated and tested all oil related things i could externally, bypassing external oil coolers, new sensors. I tested the oil pressure per manual with a mechanical gauge. The issue appeared to be internal.

    Now the Dilemma i faced.

    Specialist garages charge crazy money. I didn't want to pay to have the engine removed and stripped just to be inspected as i would had to wait months for any parts or what if it was something major like a crank, full motor build etc. After speaking with Cody and going through different scenarios i decided to go on the basis of worst case. It sounds a little crazy but... it's so hard to get parts here and with the unknown of what was wrong or involved, i opted for a full build because i would have a car that is mechanically sound and trouble free with the peace of mind and confidence to drive. I thought to myself i've been here before!! my 300zx built motor blew up after a month. So i decided to over spec the motor for a element of safety. I can only afford to do this once so do it right. There was a possibility the bearing had gone due to the symptoms and going on worst case i decided the crank had to be replaced to be on the safe side. this meant stroker kits, i spec'd the engine for around 800-1000bhp i wanted to tick every box and dot every I.

    I contacted several garages and specialists and decided to take my car to Plans Performance.

    As we speak the car is currently in bits and with Plans, they were just as excited as myself when dropping the car off to be working on this project. The motor is apart and with the machine shop as of typing. They found that one of the bearings had gone. They have sent a comprehensive email with a to do list of other things they have found that needs addressing which is good as again I know in the back of my mind that the car will come home completely mechanically sound. So far so good with Plans but a little anxious based on my past experience with garages, time will tell.

    I will post a complete spec list later with more details and info but this is a start at least.


    So as you can see i have had my share of bad luck in terms of cars, i'm a decent guy and garages take advantages of this and stitch me up in the past. I'm a little nervous but very excited.



    - - - Updated - - -

    When i spec'd the motor i wanted to replace everything oem while building.

    I ordered the oem motor rebuild kits (these do not contain everything)

    I then went online and printed off the exploded diagrams for the motor, oil systems, wiring, throttle body etc. etc.

    I then cross referenced what parts i had and ordered every single gasket, seal, grommet and including all brand new sensors for everything... Some sensors were expensive like the knock and crank angle but as mentioned above i could only do this the once and needed it to be trouble free motoring.

    I wanted to spend a little extra now to ensure i had a brand new motor for complete reliability and trouble free motoring.
    Great story behind the build jaffaz32, you're obviously not holding back on the horses with this project are you???

    What WHP are you hoping to achieve and what sort of time scale before you hope to get the finished monster on the road again???

    Looking forward to updates on this if that's ok???
    Pride.

    1992 My beloved Red/Black manual NA1.😎
    1992 Chevy Lumina apv Rockford Fosgate sound system demo van.🙉
    2003 Hartge Mini Cooper S (2 x UK & 1 x European sound quality finals winner) 🏆 

    "The NSX's greatest victory was to WIN the 1995 Le Mans 24hr GT2 Class"
    ..............and guess what, it was a RED one but of course.  

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pride View Post
    Great story behind the build jaffaz32, you're obviously not holding back on the horses with this project are you???

    What WHP are you hoping to achieve and what sort of time scale before you hope to get the finished monster on the road again???

    Looking forward to updates on this if that's ok???
    The motor has been spec'd for 800-1000 Whp but i don't want to push my luck and run safely within a safety margin.

    Next limiting factors are the gearbox, turbo and injectors.

    gearbox is recommended to support about 550whp, that being said with my engine management i have restricted boost in first and second gear also 12 boost settings so if i was to push the gearbox is would only be a fraction of the time when in the highest boost setting and not where the damage would be done most off the line with the restriction in 1st and 2nd.

    The turbo and injectors will need upgrading for anything above 600-650

    I think playing it safe would be around 550 ish. It's hard to say though as with the increased capacity i would require less turbo pressure to hit the desired bhp. I will make the tuners aware of the gearbox and see what they come back with.

    Timings i was hoping to get it on the road in time for my brothers wedding (8th July) however i rather it was built right and not rushed, if it ran over it wouldn't be the end of the road.

    I plan to keep everyone updated
    Last edited by jaffaz32; 27-06-2016 at 10:29 AM.

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    I got an email first thing this morning saying my brake rotors are on their way back from being Cryogenic Treated.

    The process involves freezing them to -195 degrees.

    The process removes imperfections in the metal and can increase rotor and pad life up to 300x (apparently)

    It also helps with brake fade which I have experienced in the past. My brother found it highly amusing that i had limited brakes three quarters way around the ring and it was still braking hard.
    Last edited by jaffaz32; 27-06-2016 at 10:31 AM.

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    Current Spec:

    Body Work:

    Carbon Type R bonnet (color coded)
    Custom Front bumper
    Led front side lights
    Carbon front splitter
    Carbon Canards
    Downforce Carbon Intake vents
    BYS clear indicators
    APR GTC Carbon wing
    JDM rear upper bumper
    Seibon Carbon lower rear bumper partly colour coded.
    Custom rear diffuser
    LED tail lights


    Brakes, Wheels/Tires:

    Advans 17/18 in Satin black
    Dunlop Z2's
    EBC rotors and yellow stuff pads all round (on the upgrade list)


    Drivetrain:

    1.5 way LSD with ring and pinion
    DriveShaft shop rear axles
    SOS Carbon clutch

    Suspension:

    BC coilovers with Swift springs
    Non compliance rear beam
    Urethane steer rack bush
    Non compliance front clamp set
    Adjustable drop links front/back
    Adjustable rear toe links
    Carbon6 front ball joints top and bottom
    Dali front/rear strut bars


    Interior:

    Bride Gias Carbon seats
    Takata harnesses
    Route Ks harness bar
    Carbon centre console
    Nsx navigation panel
    triple gauge pod


    Electronics:

    LoveFab AEM Infinity 10 Engine management
    AEM AQ1 datalogger with GPS
    Various gauges
    Gauge Art on Honda Nav screen


    Cooling:

    Koyo Rad
    New oem coolant hoses
    Aftermarket coolant tank


    Turbo kit:

    LoveFab with GTX upgrade, custom exhaust and ceramic coating.


    New Motor currently being built by plans:


    Block:

    Brian Crower 3.4L Stroker kit. - Brian Crower crank, Brian Crower Rods
    JE pistons
    Darton Sleeves
    ARP head bolts
    ARP block bolts
    Cometic gaskets
    Science of speed oem oil pump with billet gear
    New water pump
    full set of oem sensors
    full set of oem gaskets/seals
    baffled sump
    Power Enterprise timing belt
    Aftermarket stiffer engine mounts
    ID 725cc injectors (to be upgraded next year)
    Ati Crank pulley
    SOS EGR kit
    SOS oil sensor upgrade kit


    Heads:

    Full polish n port
    Brian Crower springs
    Brian Crower retainers/seats
    Supertech valve guides
    Supertech stem seals
    Ferrea oversized intake valves
    Ferrea oversized exhaust valves
    Comptech cam gears
    SOS LMA kit
    Full seat of new gaskets/seals


    We are slightly changing the plumping of the oil feeds within the turbo system and upgrading to Russell braided lines and fittings.
    Also tapping the pan for a temp sensor
    Left it open with Plans regarding an oil cooler, i had supplied the parts from the SOS kit i removed.
    Cleaning up the engine bay by removing anything no longer in use as suggested by Plans, less to put back on


    First off Plans wanted to see the car running before starting work which is fully understandable, I was waiting for the AEM to return from USA after being upgraded, sent it straight to Plans and they started working on the car.

    End of first week I received a detailed email with some advisories which was listed in order of priorities, this was outside of the engine build that covered a worn ball joints, corroded rose joints etc. Was good to see as this was using initiative to give the car a quick go over and flag anything else that may need attention.

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    Sorry i still haven't uploaded any pics, i can't seem to post them from Instagram in to the thread so will have to upload all to onedrive.



    A little update.

    We had a few hold ups, first was the engine shop as they were busy before fitting me in, then we have been waiting for parts on 3 occasions and we all know what that is like.

    The block and heads are back from the machine shop, i believe the heads are now built. The block is being built but waiting for bearings to arrive.

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    While the motor was being built i wanted to replace every single sensor, gasket, seal and bearing with brand new oem and i mean everything . So i purchased a rebuild kit, then i downloaded the parts catalog for everything engine related internal and external including fuel rails, water system, oil system etc. pretty much everything under the rear hatch . I then cross referenced with what came with the kit, anything not in the kit that was either a sensor, gasket, seal or bearing i then highlighted to order. Once ordered and the missing parts arrived i then printed all off again, highlighting everything i supplied and bagged by category. This was maybe a little over the top but being a highly sprung engine it had to be right first time.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    New oem water hose kit.

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    New oem water pump

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    That's pretty much all of the oem parts going in, everything else is aftermarket

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    I had a slightly leaky brake master cylinder, now was the time to replace it with a new unit.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    When Plans removed the motor before stripping they inspected the rest of the car and informed me that my front lower ball joints were worn, they offered a replacement service but i always prefer to go with a aftermarket option if it's better than oem plus i rather replace both lower and upper at the same time. These are Source 1 titanium ball joints as seen on Prime.

    Click image for larger version. 

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