Science of Speed EGR blank kit, only compatible with aftermarket engine management.
Science of Speed Oil pressure gauge upgrade kit for the oem gauge on dash. Apparently resolving the issue of it being unreliable.
Aftermarket engine mounts with a stiffer bush to help eliminate engine flex with the additional power, i didn't go crazy stiff because a little flex isn't bad and helps reduce vibration.
Science of Speed refurbished oil pump with billet oversized gear, they replace all the seals and machine the factory oem pump to accept a bigger billet gear than provides more oil pressure. The factory gear is made from cast and they are known to fail (shatter) causing loss possible engine failure.
CT Engineering / Comptech Adjustable cam gears, these feature a locking pin that stop them from moving and also super light weight compared to oem and Toda which actually is a modified oem part.
Cometic metal head gaskets, the early cars had a weak gasket and is the limiting factor when turbo charging the factory engine, later models had metal gaskets from factory and is one of the reasons you can run a little more power on the later engines.
Arp Head bolt and main block stud kit. The other recommended upgrade when turbo charging a factory engine, allot of the guys in the States only upgrade the head gaskets and studs to run a little more power with the next upgrade being pistons for a little more again.
Cedar Ridge cam pulley upgrade, the factory pulley is spring loaded and has been known to fail, this is a fixed solution.
Power Enterprise timing belt, just a stronger belt that oem.
Ferrea forged oversized valves, the C30A has 1mm smaller valves than the C32B, i believe from memory it's only on the intake side.
Brian Crower Springs, Retainers and Seats. I chose steel over titanium because you hear about titanium being brital and apparently they can snap.
Just as a data point, my engine makes a kind of whining noise when it has warmed up ever since I had Comptech adjustable cam gears and a Power Enterprise Super Kevlar II timing belt installed. I heard the engine makes that sound when the belt is too tight so I readjusted the tension myself, trying to be as accurate as possible. It didn't make a difference. Next time I replace the timing belt, I'm going to use an OEM belt again and hope that gets rid of the whine when the engine is warm.Originally Posted by jaffaz32
Power Enterprise timing belt, just a stronger belt that oem.
ACL big end bearings, we are using Honda main bearings.
Science of Speed Lost Motion Assembly (LMA) upgrade kit, these were upgraded by Honda in later Nsx's as the original design caused the tappy sound coming from the heads.
Platinum Member
Fascinating blog. I have a SoS LMA fitted and it is still very "tappy" compared with the Honda upgrade.
1996 NSX-T Auto
1933 Talbot 105
2011 Nissan Cube Rider
There are two types of people. Those who extrapolate from incomplete data.
Really is that so? That's interesting.
There is some adjustments to be made in the heads, have you had these checked and dialed in?
Darton Sleeves, when building a motor for Forced induction there is only so far you can go power wise regardless of what you have replaced pistons, rods etc. Sleeves are required to take you to the next level and Darton's are considered to be the best in the game by many. Basically they machine the block to install these, i believe there is a heating and freezing process involved and then the pistons sits within these sleeves.
Again, i'm not chasing the number game. I've learnt the hard way on previous cars and it gets very expensive and doesn't always result in a faster car, there is a point where you can have too much power. The motor is being way over spec'd to last and for reliability.
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