If you have modern Honda/Acura models with SRS controller generating individual error codes, you can reset it in less than 30sec. Those models will show blinking SRS light when SCS connector was shorted.
Not on our NSX though.
These modern SRS controllers will keep the error code even you disconnect the fuse or the battery and can't be erased without following the specific sequences.
Same for the upgraded one body ABS controller on our NSX introduced from 99-00 model onwards.
With some SRS controllers, they even have accident/crush data logger feature to support accident investigation or providing precious information for the development of future safety devices.
For modern SRS, keep the IG key in P0 (Off position), short the MES (Memory Erase Signal) connector under the dash or nearby, turn the IG key in P2 (On position), wait for about 6sec until the SRS light switches off, within 4sec disconnect the short loop at the MES, SRS light comes On again, within 4sec re-connect the short loop at the MES, then the SRS light should flash twice to confirm the memory reset.
On OBD2 spec cars, there are other method used but still, similar procedures.
However, on our NSX including the final 2005 model, it's the classic single stage system. Well before the introduction of i-SRS dual stage ones.
There is no error code generated and thus, no memory to reset.
Before going any further, please note that SRS is a safety device and if the system was deployed, the golden rule is to replace the whole SRS module/controller/sensor as a set.
Please use the following info at your own risk. I have repaired the SRS module in the past for the owner only under the strict written agreements.
As you have taken out the SRS module, if you tilt it, you can hear some light metal rattling noise.
It's like the metal ball inside the paint spray can.
That's the trigger switch within the SRS controller.
There are other two switches on the car. It's the dash sensors and it's like round cylinder like body.
If you follow the yellow protective cable tube around both the driver and passenger foot area, you will find them. There is also a switch in each sensor.
Before reconnecting the new replacement modules (not the controller but the steering wheel SRS element, the passenger one and the two seat belts SRS cyl), just short the mating connectors on the chassis loom or use 2ohm resistor to simulate the modules at each connectors.
Then, put the IG key in P2 (On). If the SRS light switches itself Off, your cable and controller are fine. Then, you can connect the actual modules instead of the short circuit mockup wires to prevent accidental deploy of SRS.
Again, the rule is to replace the whole units if the car was involved in accident deploying the SRS system.
If you are thinking of getting used parts, please double check the parts no.. There are different spec available depending on the year model, RHD/LHD, etc.
Recently on NSX Prime, one member posted that although the outer case shape (and thus, the parts no. as well) is different, the internal circuit board used was exactly the same on classic Legend models and these controllers are sold at really cheap price. It's from LHD models but may be of your interest.
If you have friends in Japan, someone who can understand Japanese or if you can use translation sofware well, you may be able to get RHD version throuhg Yahoo Japan Auction or 'Rakuten' website.
While you have the SRS controller off the car, you may want to replace the capacitor and check one of the transistor inside.
Sooner or later, it will start leaking like the ones on the A/C CCU, Bose AMP, dash gauge, etc.
Example here; http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=48
Kaz
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