Clutch replacement

[Mark N]

Just when I thought it was good to come out and play more often another problem arises.

Has anyone replaced their clutch recently ? I am looking for any advice on the best place to purchase a new clutch complete with bearing etc and any recommendations to find someone to carry out the work . I am looking to get the best VFM (Value for Money) another acronym.

I have already contacted Kaz who has given me some good advice , thank you again Kaz, but he is unable to carry out the work due to current commitments.

Many thanks
Mark

[goldtop]

Haven't got any concrete advice, except to say that even well-known companies with a record of servicing many NSXs don't always get the clutch right. (I only know this from the records kept by the previous owner of K2NSX.)

VFM (Value for Money) another acronym.

(whispers) It's not an acronym.

[NSXGB]

Guessing you have the dual plate clutch at the moment?

NW ( Norton Way ) charge about £400 labour inc VAT to change the clutch.

You will need the pilot bearing as well as the release bearing.

Some members have installed the SOS (Science of Speed) sport clutch which is a little kinder to the pocket, maybe they could chime in with their experiences. A search on Prime would give some more feedback on the different clutches available.

[NSXGB]

.....or have a look in the For Sale section here...you never know what might pop up!

[Mark N]

Guessing you have the dual plate clutch at the moment?

NW ( Norton Way ) charge about £400 labour inc VAT to change the clutch.

You will need the pilot bearing as well as the release bearing.

Some members have installed the SOS (Science of Speed) sport clutch which is a little kinder to the pocket, maybe they could chime in with their experiences. A search on Prime would give some more feedback on the different clutches available.

Just spoke to a nice gut at Honda Norton way they are quoting just over £600 for installation £2100 supply and fit all in.

[NSXGB]

Just spoke to a nice gut at Honda Norton way they are quoting just over £600 for installation £2100 supply and fit all in.

Crikey, might be worth haggling, like I say I paid £400 labour for mine only two years ago (that's some price jump in two years).

[Hagasan]

Crikey, might be worth haggling, like I say I paid £400 labour for mine only two years ago (that's some price jump in two years).

That ^ plus buying the one for sale on the forum would save you about £500 straight away....

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Mark.
As some of the info may be useful for other owners, I'll be sharing part of my email below.


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With OEM CL, while the CL bite point won't change, the pedal effort gets much heavier on the worn out friction disc than the fresh new one.

Because it's a gradual change, lots of owners won't be able to tell this but when you have fresh CL and old used one like over 100K miles on two NSX side by side, you will feel the night and day difference on the CL pedal weight.
The heavier the CL pedal, the more the disc worn out.

I think you already carried out the test by yourself.
I normally put the car in 3rd or 4th gear on a gentle long up slope at low speed like you have on the motorway junction and then just apply moderate - hard acceleration.
You will notice the slip if the CL is on the go.
You will also notice some minor slip when you do high rpm upshift while driving aggressively.

You can't judge the condition of your CL by the mileage because it depends on all sorts of driving conditions.
For example, in Japan, we have to use parking brake and let the CL to slip gently on launch as we have so many steep up slope everywhere. Also, lots of traffic jam so stop and go traffic is normal.
While I was in Japan, I used to replace the CL every 30K- 40K miles. After I moved to UK, I'm still using the same driving style but I already covered more than 100K miles on the CL and just about feeling the slip so it's at the end of it's life.
If you covered **K miles and started to feel the slip, then probably it's best to start looking for the new CL.


The best all-rounder is the OEM one. No doubt about this because it is targeted for all sorts of driving conditions and for all drivers. It is probably the most durable one as well.
Being as all-rounder, there are several compromise. In order to make the CL engage easier for any drivers, the flywheel and rotational mass of entire CL unit is heavy to keep high inertia.
This will slow down the engine response but the driver doesn't need to worry about the sharp rpm drop on gear shifting resulting in quick reaction required for finding the bite point.

Lots of owners replaced their CL with OEM one but purchased aftermarket lightweight flywheel to install it at the same time. Unfortunately, for OEM twin disc CL, you can't buy the CL assy without the flywheel unless you are replacing just the two friction discs so you must buy the complete set which means you will have brand new OEM flywheel that won't be used when installing the aftermarket one.

I have never driven or installed the SoS one.
There are lots of good feedback but also some negative comments as well.
Not sure about the durability as I don't think enough mileage was covered by many owners yet.

I'm already fully booked until next February so not good idea to wait for me.

I think several owners already had their CL replaced at Norton Way Honda so if you ask on the NSXCB site, you may get the idea on the labour charge.
I would assume they will charge you around 6 - 10Hrs.


Please make sure to replace the release bearing, bearing guide (if rusty) and release fork.


Regards,
Kaz
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

If going for the aftermarket flywheel, plesae pay attention not just to the weight but also the design especially the inertia.
Lots of people tends to discuss about the weight of the flywheel but it's actually the rotational inertia that makes the difference.
For the same reason, if you are doing mainly street driving, you want to avoid too light, too small inertia flywheel.
You may get used to it but for quite a while, you will be forced to pay extra attention trying to 'catch' the bite point before the rpm drops too far resulting in jerky driving style.

If it has just started slipping, you should have some time before it really slips unless you broke the torsion spring. In this case, you won't be able to disengage the CL.

Hope you can find good replacement.

Kaz