Printable View
7. Crank Pulley
Attachment 7189 Attachment 7192
Attachment 7190 Attachment 7191 Attachment 7193
Originally, it was planed to carry out the timing belt service before the Japfest but due to my sudden back injury, I only managed to replace the crank pulley in time.
8. Rear wing
Attachment 7196 Attachment 7194 Attachment 7195
One of the silver cap was missing from the rear wing where it hides the fixing screws for the highmount stop (3rd brake) light.
At the end, I had to remove all of the caps as I heard some rattling noise and found other screws were also loose causing the LED brake light module to move.
9. Japfest
Straight after my service, it was quite satisfying to see this NSX at the Castle Combe circuit with constant lap time and using similar braking point at a certain corner.
Tyre pressure was lowered for the session and the owner told me that he enjoyed it very much.
Later, the owner was really kind enough to drive the long-long distance again to visit my place for the timing belt service as I didn’t want to start adjusting the valve clearance with my back pain just before the Japfest.
Once again, thank you to this owner and his family for the generous understandings.
Regards,
Kaz
Kaz, very interested on this one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1
We normally replace the crankshaft oil seal while having the TB out. It's behind the crankshaft pulley.
Question: Don't you mount a harmonic balancer protection shield before mounting the pulley? We do this or better said we force our customers to do this. :D Cheap insurance.
I’m glad I can now access this site again. For some reason, I couldn’t access NSXCB site yesterday and couldn't reply PM or update the thread.
Hi, goldnsx.
I’ll post some photos later when I write up the timing belt (TB) service but the leakage was caused by the cyl head/valve cover gasket not being installed properly during the previous service. The edge of the rubber gasket at both Front and Rear banks were partially caught between the head cover and cylinder head at the exh port side resulting in poor sealing.
Some of the leaked oil ran down along the rubber seals of front and rear TB mid covers and then along the seal of TB lower cover and finally dripped down to the recess at the bottom of crankshaft/TB drive pulley.
It was not from the crankshaft oil seal that is pushed into the oil pump.
Even with this huge amount of oil leakage, the TB was well protected and no oil at all on the old TB itself. The seals on the mid/lower cover done the great job.
Regarding the famous crank pulley shield, I saw the actual product several times in the past and it was well made parts. I believe it is quite popular on the NSX Prime.
However, I just simply don’t have enough experience and endurance data to fit it on someone’s NSX before testing it on my NSX.
In Japan, among the owners using the NSX specialists, I have never seen this shield on their NSX. Addition to the lack of experience and endurance data, we have differnt driving condition and different TB service interval compared to Europe, US, etc so probably this is the reason for not using the shield. On top of this, it is widely known to the NSX specialists that we MUST replace the crank pulley regularly at least at the time of TB service or even more frequently if the owner tracks his/her NSX or using sharp acclamation/deceleration rpm. Still, I heard the disaster story a few times from the owners who didn't replace their crank pulley....
So, it’s up to the owner to make decision and while the product and idea is great, I normally don’t use it.
As a side note, I saw lots of discussion on the reason for the weight on the crank pulley in other car forums. While most of the opinions are correct for other models, for NSX, it is for the protection of timing belt itself. This is already mentioned somewhere on the Japanese car forum so I'm comfortable to refere it without causing IP issues.
At a certain rpm, there is a resonance point where it is not safe for the TB to be held at. On the street driving, it is almost impossible to keep the engine at this rpm but as a production car manufacture, it is not acceptable and thus, had to use the weight to shift the resonance point out of the usable engine rpm range.
So, even with the shield, it is not safe from the timing belt point of view even without any damages to the lower cover. The vibration frequency is completely different from the normal condition when the weight was partially dislocated and spinning like on and off at the pulley.
Regards,
Kaz
Kaz, what's the real difference between MTF-2 and MTF-3? Last time, my dealer only had MTF-2.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1
Hi, goldnsx.
Over the past 20 years, Honda changed the recommendation on the MT oil many times and I can’t even remember the exact timing and the changes applied each times.
Each car manufactures work together with major oil companies to develop OEM branded oils and as the oil technology advanced, the MT oil was also modified.
In Japan, originally Honda recommended to use Honda Genuine Engine Oil or MTF.
At that time, I think it recommended just the engine oil with 10W-30 or 10W-40 viscosity for the owners outside of Japan.
Then, around early 94, it only recommended to use Honda MTF and no longer the engine oil as the permanent basis.
Around 95, it started to mention the MTF-II and then around mid 00’s, it started to use MTF-III.
During these changes, I heard that at one point, the base oil was changed and some revisions to the additives were continuously made over the years.
The MT oil pump is driven by the final driven gear so unless you rotate the tyres, the oil won’t be circulated to the parts inside the gearbox.
The MT oil from the pump will then pass through the hollow section of the main shaft, counter shaft, reverse shift shaft, etc and finally arrives at the internal parts.
Because of this specific design, for our MT, we need the MT oil to have low viscosity but strong oil film under any conditions.
If you use aftermarket MT oil which tends to have higher viscosity, you will struggle to get into 2nd gear first thing in the cold winter morning.
MTF-III is very good for street usage and occasional track session.
So, I don’t know the exact answer to your question but hope above info will at least help you a little.
Regards,
Kaz
Next, I worked on very rare NSX in UK.
It’s the 94 Type-R. Obviously, it’s a JDM NSX.
The owner took my Health check service at the end of last year but I just didn’t have time to work on this NSX until recently.
I also own JDM 94 NSX and the VIN is very close to each other.
I looked after NA1 Type-R together with my NSX for more than 2 months in Japan and then drove the NA1 and NA2 Type-R recently so it was kind of going back to the old days working on this type-R.
When I was in Japan during this Spring, I had the opportunity to compare the light weight version NA1/NA2 NSX (by removing lots of parts) against NA1/NA2 Standard Coupe and Type-R.
While the cornering speed of both light weight versions were very high, they were very tricky to control and I couldn’t enjoy driving them at the limit. The weight balance changed so much by removing the parts and thus, I couldn’t create enough traction or cornering force due to the lack of weight shifting with the level of my driving skill. If the driver has enough skill, I’m quite sure the lightweight versions would be fun to drive.
For me, both NA1/NA2 Coupe and Type-R were much fun to drive than these light weight versions as the driveability and the balance suited me. They were also equipped with OEM tyres.
In Japan, through the ‘Refresh Plan’, we can still get the OEM tyres and although they were still called as the same code name as 20 years ago, I was told that the material and possibly small part of the structure were updated with the modern technology.
I used to run Bridgestone replacement tyres available in UK and for quite a while, I’ve been using Good Year GSD3 but what a huge difference running OEM tyres compared to these aftermarket ones.
Even it is old design from 20 years ago, if you are using the OEM wheels, the OEM tyres are still the best for most of our NSX.
Having said this, by using wider aftermarket wheels and tyres with consideration for the contact patch and geometry, you can create your own setup to suit your own taste.
Both NA1 and NA2 Type-R were in the different league compared to other models.
The engine, bush, ABS setup, ECU, chassis balance, etc are so different from other models that unless you drove one, you’ll never understand the huge difference of Type-R.
Especially, the NA2 Type-R engine is so smooth that it revs up to 8,000rpm so quickly without any noticeable vibration. On early NA1 standard NSX, I always noticed some vibration at around 1,300 – 1,600rpm but it disappeared on NA2 engines. Then, with NA2 Type-R engine, it was just so smooth.
I just hoped Honda kept manufacturing at least the Type-R for the enthusiast customers to share this rare excitement and driving pleasure.
You’ll never be able to create Type-R by modifying the standard Coupe as some of the original parts that will affect the chassis balance are no longer available. They are superseded to the parts from the standard models. There is even protection covers on lots of the connectors inside the engine bay for Type-R that you will never find on other models. I can’t even find them on the JDM parts list….
I was also very impressed with my friend’s NSX. He installed NA2 (3.2L) engine into his 91 NSX and he used throttle cable instead of DBW which is the standard for the NA2 engine.
Addition to this, he had high lift camshaft for vtec region, 6MT with aftermarket LSD and 4.4 final ratio, Brembo brake, wider wheels, aftermarket header/exhaust, lightweight flywheel with clutch, etc.
It will cost more than using the super charger or turbo but the throttle response was just superb and further improved the NA feeling with extra torque.
If I want to do something on the engine, I will probably go down the same route as my friend.
The exhaust was also very gentle and quiet at idling to around 2,000rpm which is very nice for long driving but then changes to high note at higher rpm which is also nice for spirited driving.
For me, I prefer this type of sound on the exhaust than the loud ones as it makes me tired if it is too loud during the long driving session.
1. Drive shaft
Attachment 7219 Attachment 7224
Unfortunately, this NSX lost too much grease from one of the joint. The grease got broken down and changed its characteristic. When I opened the boot, it was like a melted coffee ice cream.
Attachment 7222 Attachment 7223
After disassembling all of the rollers, as expected, the internal grease was also black. Due to the broken down grease, there was a scorching mark on the internal wall of one of the roller. It was not too deep so managed to smooth it out but time consuming and delicate process.
Attachment 7225 Attachment 7227 Attachment 7226
If you have aftermarket headers, you must keep very close eye on the drive shaft more frequently than the owners with the OEM headers/manifold.
2. Eng Oil, filter and Air cleaner element
Attachment 7233
The owner brought the new air cleaner element with him but on inspection, the existing one was still clean so just took the photo and told him that it would be fine for quite a while.
Attachment 7234 Attachment 7235 Attachment 7236
Time to replace the engine oil and oil filter.
However, there were several markings on the old oil filter and when I tried to remove it, I found the reason.
It was so tight that it didn’t move at all using my standard oil filter wrench. It actually deformed my filter wrench....
For the first time on NSX, I had to use my rubber strap wrench to loosen the filter. (In fact, just this week, I had to use it again on another NSX.) I think lots of markings were done when someone tried to remove it and just gave up in the past.
New filter with Mobil-1 topped up before fitting it to the oil cooler base.
After draining as much oil as possible from the oil pan, I normally use suction pump to take out around further 500cc from the top.
3. Brake
In Japan, MOT will cost more than GBP1,000 – 1,500 every two years because it is so strict that we were kind of forced to replace the parts by the law. This Type-R was well serviced while in Japan as the owner showed me the service history in Japanese. So many parts were replaced but most of them were done under warranty…. Very lucky considering the price of the parts for Type-R.
Unfortunately, in UK, brake is not serviced well for most of the cars on the road.
Attachment 7237 Attachment 7238 Attachment 7239 Attachment 7240 Attachment 7241
There were trace of leakage at the base of master cyl, un-even wear on one of the pads, rust got inside of the bleeder hole and piston wall, etc so it’s time to go through the overhaul process.
Attachment 7244 Attachment 7243 Attachment 7242
All four callipers including the brackets were washed, inspected and overhauled.
Master cyl was also overhauled.
Attachment 7245
Once I'm happy, the system was pressure bled to get rid of tiny air bubbles.
4. ABS
Attachment 7246 Attachment 7247
Attachment 7249 Attachment 7248
Although the owner didn’t activate it regularly, all four solenoids were still working fine and it was easy to flush them.
5. Clutch Master/Slave CYL and hose
Attachment 7250 Attachment 7251 Attachment 7252
Another common failure item. The CL master cyl was already leaking inside the cabin so had to remove the carpet to clean the leaked brake fluid.
At the same time, the slave cyl and CL hose were also replaced.
6. Main Relay
Even during the Health check service, the engine failed to fire up while it was warm. So, new main relay was installed. The old one was re-soldered and conformal coating was applied for added protection. It will be kept on the car for an emergency spare. As it was non-DBW model, it was easy to replace it.
Attachment 7253 Attachment 7254
Even this NSX was 94 model, the Main Relay was using the parts from 1990.
New Main Relay with the parts from 2009.
7. Crank Pulley
Attachment 7255 Attachment 7256 Attachment 7257
The timing belt was replaced a few years ago but not the crank pulley.
So, definitely, it’s best to replace it now.
If you are doing this as DIY project, make sure to get hold of pulley attachment tool (MT or AT version) and proper torque wrench that can handle 245Nm.
8. A/C CCU service and cabin temperature sensor
Although the owner didn’t mention any issues with his A/C, I was 100% sure that the capacitors inside the CCU would be leaking so we decided to have it serviced.
Attachment 7258 Attachment 7259 Attachment 7260 Attachment 7261 Attachment 7262
And, yes indeed, most of the capacitors were leaking. Lots of cleaning process was required as well as many damaged circuit pads and lines had to be rebuilt.
Attachment 7263 Attachment 7264 Attachment 7265
At the same time, the cabin temperature sensor was cleaned as it was full of dust.
9. Coolant Header tank
Attachment 7266 Attachment 7267
The header tank was already cracked and the owner brought the new one.
All of the hoses need to be replaced in the near future but for the time being, I just replaced the header tank.
If you are creative, you can replace it without loosing too much coolant.
As a precaution, I bled the entire system afterwards.
10. MTF
Before removing the Left side driveshaft, MTF had to be drained.
Attachment 7272Attachment 7268 Attachment 7269
At the same time, I always inspect the MTF strainer and replace the O-ring at the cover.
Attachment 7270 Attachment 7271
Although there was no service history on the gearbox, the strainer was full of some kind of sealant.
Unfortunately, due to the structure and the mechanism of the transmission oil pump, it is not possible to flush the gearbox without rotating the rear tyres for a long distance.
The gear shifting was very smooth after replacing the fluid but I asked the owner to come back to my place during the Silverstone Classic event.
We’ll replace the fluid again and check the strainer to decide whether further flushing is required or not.
I'm glad we checked the strainer at this point.
Another very happy owner!
Time to say good bye to this Type-R and back to the beautiful silver NSX as I have unfinished business on this one due to my back pain and couldn't complete the service before Japfest.
Regards,
Kaz
Hi Kaz it sounds like it could be my old type R, if it has the Mugen headers most probably it is. I believe that the is a Mugen Item and the box had some special ratios, making acceleration very rapid.
If it is the one the full service history was with it when it was sold in 2007 to the previous owner.
Great job BTW as usual. :)
Think its your old car too Ary as its Charlotte green and I dont know of any other NSX-R here in that color.
Looks like it has color coded roof and aftermarket suspension?
Yeas on the roof, but it looks like the OEM NSX-R Showa suspension to me???Quote:
Originally Posted by Sudesh
I do, and I know where it is too :cool:, and its not the one in the photos as you've both worked out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sudesh
Hi Kaz,
Many Thanx for making time to look after my NSX earlier this week. Gearbox feels sweet with the fresh fluid. See you later in the year.
regards,
Paul
Kaz, thanks for the explanation on the gearbox oil. I've read somewhere that MTF II is semi-, MTF III is fully synthetic but not an earthshaking difference. The later one solved a problem with foaming at higher speeds.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1
Do you have more infos on the MOT in Japan? How strict are they? Replacing parts by the law? Wow!
The Japanese MOT is called Shaken and is quite strict, I learned this from many vehicles I imported from Japan.
If you google Shaken you will get allot of info. But here is some links
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor-v...pection_(Japan)
http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Shaken...pan&id=2196157
Quote:
Originally Posted by goldnsx
Hi, Paul. Thank you for visiting my place the other day.
Have a nice time over the weekend.
Hi, all.
Recently, I was asked from many owners to carry out the Timing Belt (TB) and Water Pump (WP) service together with the Valve Clearance adjustment.
I have done this on nearly 100 NSXs and stopped counting thereafter. I also learnt so called 'Engine Refresh' process from my master on many occasions.
In Japan, even just for the TB service, most of the NSX specialists will take out the engine.
This is because quite often, the owner would like to carry out additional processes at the time of TB service and also, due to these extra processes, it would be faster and most importantly, more accurate and easier to carry out the services while the engine is out of the engine bay.
At this stage, I don’t have air curtain nor access to the clean air room for the engine refresh and thus, I won’t be able to carry out the level of services that I want to offer.
In Japan, the TB service interval is based only on the mileage (every 62,500 miles, 100,000km) and not by the age.
Therefore, some owners will carry it out after 5 years and others may carry it out after more than 10 – 15 years until they have reached the specified service mileage.
Having said this, most of the owners seemed to carry it out before exceeding the 10 years time.
Based on my experience and the engine refresh service carried out by many NSX specialists in Japan, following is the list of the parts that will be prepared/replaced during my service at this stage.
These are more than twice the amount of the parts that will be replaced during the standard TB service at the main dealer.
As a personal opinion, any services should be tailored for each NSX especially for a classic car like our NSX.
Some NSX may require extra parts due to rust, corrosion, fatigue, etc whereas others may not require them to be replaced.
Therefore, please note that following list is just a reference only to show the example of my service carried out recently.
Your NSX may not require all of these parts or may require different parts.
Each NSX will need tailor made parts list as there are several differences between MT/AT, earlier/later models, RHD/LHD and etc.
The service will start by talking to the owner.
For every NSX, it is important to first find out whether the owner felt any vibration, idling issue, spun off the track, missed downshift/over-revved the engine in the past, etc or not.
I always carry out Compression test before start of the TB/WP services.
Eng Refresh Service
PFR6G-11, 6L-11: NGK spark plug x 6, every 60K miles. Heat rating #7 for certain year model.
91302-GE0-000 x 3 : O-ring, post #347. 2 x dowel pin under #1 cam holder, 1 x oil dip stick tube.
91318-PY3-000 : O-ring, figure of '8'
12030-PR7-010 x 2 : Packing set, Head cover
12351-PR7-A00 : Packing C, Front head cover
12352-PR7-A00 : Packing C, Rear head cover
12511-PR7-A00 : Packing, Front IGN Coil cover
12521-PR7-A00 : Packing, Rear IGN Coil cover
12513-PR7-A00 x 4 : Rubber comp, Camshaft Black cap
91213-PR7-A01 x 4 : Oil seal, Camshaft brown seal
14510-PR7-A01 : Adjuster comp, timing belt
90016-P0G-A00 : Bolt, special, timing belt adjuster
90401-634-000 : Rubber, timing belt adjuster
14516-PR7-A00 : Spring comp, timing belt
14400-PR7-A01 : Belt kit, timing. Not great package. Prefers 06141-PR7-305 from Japan.
31110-PR7-A05 : Belt, ACG MT. For AT, -A12
38920-PR7-A05 : Belt, A/C compressor
19200-PR7-305 : Pump assy, water. Comes with lower cover and rubber grommet.
In Japan, it's cheaper to order them separately as three parts.
11841-PR7-A00 : Packing, timing belt lower cover
11842-PR7-A00 : Packing A, timing belt front mid cover
11843-PR7-A00 : Packing B, timing belt front mid cover
11844-PR7-A00 : Packing A, timing belt rear mid cover
11845-PR7-A00 : Packing B, timing belt rear mid cover
90049-PH7-000 x 2 : Bolt flange, 8x25. Water pump
90052-PH7-000 x 7 : Bolt flange, 6x22. Water pump
19012-PD2-004 x 2 : O-ring. Radiator drain plug and bleeder
90471-580-000 x 2 : Packing 8mm. Floor centre, Water pipe
13811-PR7-A02 : Crank pulley, MT. For AT, -A11.
95701-06035-08 x 2 : Bolt, flange 6x35. TB cover bolt, long, upper
95701-06022-08 x 11 : Bolt, flange 6 x 22. TB cover bolt, short
90428-PD6-003 x 2 : Fuel line sealing washer
18393-SH3-S00 x 2 : for 3 bolt style OEM CAT only.
For other year model or aftermarket ones, check the spec.
Brake line washer x 4
19511-PR7-A01 x 4 : hose cramp, large
19506-PR7-A01 : coolant hose, white marking
19507-PR7-A01 : coolant hose, yellow marking
79728-SL0-A00 : coolant hose, inlet
90661-SL0-A01 x 2 : hose cramp, pre-set
19422-PR7-A01 : coolant hose, oil cooler
19423-PR7-A00 : coolant hose, oil cooler
19513-PE0-003 x 4 : hose cramp, strong
08CLA-G01-8L0 x 3 or 4: Type 2 Coolant
15400-PL2-505 : Oil Filter
Engine Oil x 5.0L + extra : Mobil 1 0W-40
Brake fluid x about 1.0L : DOT4
91212-PR7-A01 : Crank seal
[37840-PR7-A03 : Sensor assy, cyl/crk. Replace if potting melted a lot.]
11865-PR7-A00 : Packing A, front timing belt cover plate
11866-PR7-A00 : Packing B, front timing belt cover plate
11867-PR7-A00 : Packing C, front timing belt cover plate
11875-PR7-A00 : Packing A, rear timing belt cover plate
11876-PR7-A00 : Packing B, rear timing belt cover plate
11877-PR7-A00 : Packing C, rear timing belt cover plate
LMA and VTEC Spool valve service
12209-PR3-000 x 4 : Washer, sealing 20mm.
14820-PCB-305 x12 : Lost Motion Assy. long life
91306-PJ4-000 x 4 : O-ring, 608x1.9. Rocker shaft oil olifice
15825-PR3-005 x 2 : Filter assy, spool valve. Check Eng No., 94 model. Later spec: 15825-P08-005
36172-PR3-005 x 2 : Filter assy, solenoid. Check Eng No., 94 model. Later spec: 36172-P08-015
91302-PR7-A00 : O-ring, 13.8x1.9. Oil press sender
95701-06018-08 x 6 : Bolt, 6 x 18
95701-06030-08 x 6 : Bolt, 6 x 30
Oil Pan service (removal of front exh pipe/header required)
11251-P0G-A00 : Packing, oil pan, softer rubber than the original design, later spec
11200-PR7-A01 : Oil Pan
95701-06018-08 x 10 - 18 : Bolt, 6 x 18, same one as VTEC spool valve. Total 18 used.
94050-06080 x 4 : nut, total 4 used.
Parts around exh pipe/header to be reviewed. Metal gasket, heat treated nut, etc
Valve clearance adjusted.
Compression test after the service.
Replace all coolant hoses, hose clamps, thermostat, header tank, tank cap, etc, if required.
Addition to the above, you may want to consider replacing the followings but some of the parts doesn't need to be done at the time of TB service.
[Edit: These are more like engine refresh than TB/WP service and thus, not included as a standard service.]
Please make sure to replace the Oil pump if you have ever over-revved the engine in the past.
In Japan, I saw at least three NSX engine failures due to the cracked oil pump.
Just over 8,000rpm, there is a resonance vibration point on the internal oil pump parts.
The crack could happen immediately at the time of over-rev or sometimes, at later date.
15100-PR7-J21 : Pump assy, Oil. If over-revved the engine.
91312-PR7-A00 : O-ring, 22x2.4. Oil strainer, oil pump service
91308-PH7-003 : O-ring, oil joint. Oil path pipe, oil pump service
91309-PH7-000 : O-ring, 17.4x3.5. Oil path pipe, oil pump service
Some photos to follow;
"In Japan, the TB service interval is based only on the mileage (every 62,500 miles, 100,000km) and not by the age.
Therefore, some owners will carry it out after 5 years and others may carry it out after more than 10 – 15 years until they have reached the specified service mileage.
Having said this, most of the owners seemed to carry it out before exceeding the 10 years time."
That is really interesting.Why don't the Japanese consider it neccessary to replace the belt after 6 or 7 years ?
I have been reading a thread on Prime about belt replacment and one of the contributors argues that a 20 year old car with only 20k miles should not need the belt replacing.Another point he makes is that when you buy a "new" belt from Honda or a parts dealer,it could be older than the belt you are replacing.
Thoughts?
The photo of the parts;
Attachment 7275 Attachment 7276
The spark plug
Unlike other aftermarket ones, this model is good for nearly 62,500miles so on this NSX, I didn't replace them as the mileage was still very low.
The O-rings, 8mm aluminium washer and the rubber seal for the TB adjuster bolt
Two for the dowel pin under each #1 camshaft holder at Front and Rear bank. Same one at the base of Oil Level gauge dip stick tube.
Figure of eight one for the Oil cooler base.
Two for the radiator drain and bleeder plugs.
Two aluminium 8mm packings for the centre floor coolant pipes.
And the Rubber seal at the TB adjuster bolt. It's easier to simply just break it than tryiing to re-use it on removal. Sometimes, people forgets to install this after the TB service. Very important to prevent debris and moisture/oil getting inside the TB cover.
Attachment 7277 Attachment 7278
Head cover packing set
You need one each for the Front and Rear covers.
The set comes with one cover packing, three spark plug hole seals, six cover washer. You must replace all of these if you removed the head cover otherwise, you won't get tight seal and will end up with oil leaking/seeping from many places. If you use small amount of Honda bond/liquid gasket to hold the packing/seals in place (which I do), make sure to do it well in advance as normally, it will take few hours for the liquid gasket to set.
Attachment 7279
Packing C at the head cover, Packing A & B at front and rear mid covers
The thin packing at the head cover that sits on top of each mid covers surrounding the TB and cam gears.
Two rubber seals each at the front and rear mid cover. I always replace them as they are so important to keep any oil away from the TB.
Attachment 7280 Attachment 7281
The all important rubber packing at the Front and Rear IGN Coil cover
Always replace them at the TB service and regularly apply silicone grease to keep good seal especially at the rear bank. Famous for causing misfire due to moisture at the rear bank causing IGN Coil body to get rusty and even crack. Sometimes, you can even get rust at the HEX part of the spark plugs.
Camshaft Black CAP and Brown seal
For the camshaft, it requires high accuracy true centred circle to keep the correct oil clearance at each camshaft holders so during the manufacturing process, it will use line boring method. Thus, you need something to seal both edge at the engine head where the jig went through.
The black cap at the spool valve side and the brown one at the TB side. Make sure to check the orientation of brown one before installing it on the camshaft.
Attachment 7282 Attachment 7283
TB tension adjuster, adjuster spring and the adjuster bolt
Adjuster has built-in bearing so I always replace it.
You can probably re-use the spring as once the tension has been adjusted, the adjuster is secured by the bolt and not by the spring.
However, as I have never tested the fatigue rate of this spring under hot condition and since it's not an expensive parts, I just replace it every time.
You can re-use the adjuster bolt but quite often, the head section gets very rusty as it sits outside of TB cover. Hence, the importance of rubber seal shown before to seal the gap between the bolt head and the TB cover.
Attachment 7284 Attachment 7285
The Timing Belt (TB)
Originally, it was using the same parts #06141-PR7-305 for both UK and Japan, but it was superseded to #14400-PR7-A01 in UK. Japan stayed with the original #.
Although the actual TB is the same between the two parts #, the kit for Japan comes with some special sticker to show when and at what mileage the TB service was carried out. This sticker and cover seal are placed at the door sill just below another white sticker showing the tyre pressure information.
Even with these extra bits, it's cheaper than HUK price so why not.
The actual TB inside the Japanese kit. Exactly the same TB that you can find in UK. Same parts # printed on the belt.
Attachment 7286
The AUX Belts, for the ACG and the A/C compressor
For the ACG one be careful with the parts # between MT and AT.
Attachment 7287
The packing for the TB Lower cover
This doesn't come with the replacement TB Lower cover which is included in the Water Pump kit described below. You must order this separately.
As same as the rubber seals on the TB mid covers, this is one of the most important seal that protects the TB from Oil and debris so I strognly recommend replacing this one. Quite often, you will see engine oil blocked by this seal at the front side.
Attachment 7288
The Water Pump kit
Comes with the water pump, new TB lower cover and the rubber grommet for the coolant seeping tube.
By now, most of the members are aware that the water pump and TB lower cover design were changed over the years. Because of this, even you just order the water pump, it comes with these extra bits. I heard that you can now order just the water pump since later models are already equipped with the new design TB lower cover but I haven't tried it yet because I would like to replace the lower cover any way.
Attachment 7289
The bolts for the Water Pump
You can re-use them if you clean them and apply Honda Bond/liquid gasket but considering the price of new one and the time required to remove the old red seal lock, I normallu just replace them with the new ones.
Two larger one and seven smaller one required.
Attachment 7290 Attachment 7291
Crank Pulley
Another MUST replace item.
We all heard the story by now so no need to repeat it.
It's on back order in Japan at the moment....
Please be careful with the Parts # between MT and AT. Very early Acura MT model requries VIN check as some of them were using AT type pulley.
Attachment 7293
Honda Type-2 Coolant
Used to be in white container but now comes in black one. Also, little bit more extra amount contained so now I only need to buy three of them instead of four.
Attachment 7292
TB cover bolt, short one
Most of them can be re-used but sometimes, you get heavy corrosion on the lower ones so best to keep some spares before start of the service. Top two ones are longer than the rest.
So, above are the parts for my standard TB, WP, Valve clearance services.
Once again, please note that these are just reference only and it would be different from yours due to the spec of NSX, service concept, level of services, service procedure and so on.
Some of the photos from actual service to follow.
Regards,
Kaz
We normally do this o-ring too and if the car is more than 15 years old do the injector o-rings
1 91212-PR7-A01 OIL SEAL (41X56X7)
6 91301-PM7-003 O-RING (7.3X2.2)
6 16472-PH7-003 SEAL RING, INJECTOR
6 16473-P10-A01 RUBBER RING, INJECTOR
1 16741-PG7-005 O-RING, PRESSURE REGULATOR (12.1X1.9) (HONDA KIKAKI)
Hi Kaz
I am somewhat concerned re your post (see below). My car is currently going through Refresh with Sudesh (as you know). prior to getting the car, i had arranged with the garage i bought the car off to do the whole timing belt and water pump replacement done there. also recently, Sudesh has completed the crank pulley replacement etc. In relation to the oil pump replacement below, should this have been done at time of the belt being replaced?
Is this part easily got at or is it inside the engine and should have been sorted at the time of TB service?
bit concerned now re this as my car is 16yr old and since getting her, i have been playing about in her i.e. high revs etc. also is this total pump replacement, i have read about gear replacements etc, but assuming you are saying a full replacement is required.
do i need to get this looked at ASAP?
You wrote:
Please make sure to replace the Oil pump if you have ever over-revved the engine in the past.
In Japan, I saw at least three NSX engine failures due to the cracked oil pump.
Just over 8,000rpm, there is a resonance vibration point on the internal oil pump parts.
The crack could happen immediately at the time of over-rev or sometimes, at later date.
Andrew the pump is basically inside the engine, to the side.
Basically in short.
Drain Engine oil
Remove Timing Belt
Remove Oil filter Assembly
Remove Oil Pan
Remove Oil Screen
Remove Baffle Plate
Remove Oil Pass Pipe
Remove mounting bolts and then the pump
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performa...lpumpgear1.jpg
http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performa...lpumpgear2.jpg
You can read some more here: http://www.nsxprime.com/FAQ/Performa...p_upgrades.htm
Hi, Sudesh.
Thank you for the follow up. I didn’t even know Prime had such a nice photo.
Hi, nobby.
As in my post, unless you over-revved the engine, you are very unlikely needing to replace the oil pump during your ownership. I know there are lots of NSX in Japan with their original oil pump still being used and running happily. I knew some of the NSX covered more than 300k miles with their original pump.
I covered over 127k miles in 16 years on my NSX and I replaced my oil pump just once at very early stage for R&D purpose and still running it without any issues.
The only parts at the oil pump that I can think of is the oil seal.
As goldnsx suggested, I heard that people replaces this seal at the time of TB service but in Japan, it is very rare and thus, I have never done it. I have one spare just in case.
So, if you are just driving on the street using the high rpm upto 8,000rpm, you are fine. Car manufactures have their own endurance test cycle and you’ll never know how they carry it out and how extensively they do this unless you are very close to the actual dyno and the test facility setup.
The problem was, during early 90’s, there were several aftermarket ECUs claiming that they can increase the rev limit higher than 8,000rpm without knowing the engine spec and other parts used inside/outside of the engine. They just wanted the easy quick profits.
So, some of the owners bought this expensive ECU and used a few 100’s extra rpm frequently believing that they gained something and eventually, bang, the oil pump cracked.
The other time when the oil pump could get damaged is the over-rev by the missed downshift.
If you are just driving on the street using high rpm and hit the rev limit, the ECU will cut the fuel and thus, rpm will drop.
I have never tried hitting the rev limit continuously so can’t comment on this but I presume, it won’t be good for the engine and other parts.
Unfortunately, for the missed downshift, the ECU fuel cut won’t save you…. The gear ratio and the speed will force the engine rpm to where you don’t want to be.
So, although I don’t know the history of your NSX, the way you drive your NSX, how often you track your NSX, number of missed downshift, etc, it sounded like you don't need to worry too much from what you wrote but as always, the final decision maker will be the owner.
Kaz
Kaz,
what would you consider over-rev? 8500, 9000 or 9500 rpm?
I've a 8300 rpm chip but don't use the 8k+ range. I ran only about three times into the limiter by mistake.
thank you kaz for clearing this up ... welcome relief for sure! I spoke to Sudesh briefly about it yesterday, and he thought i/my car was Ok but just wanted to make sure after your post that i was fine
Kaz, i am enjoying the NSX so enjoying the VTEC range however I am not over-reving ... i change when i hit the 8k rpm mark. This is not done on a daily basis, its just that i am enjoying my new ownership with the car. i do not intend to do this type of driving throughout course of ownership. I had an ATR before and like everything else you settle down after a bit :D
I have an extensive service history with the car so will review past receipts to see if anything has been done in this area. but as for history of the car in terms of ownership i have no idea how it has been treated etc.
I don't plan to track the car albeit i am heading to Nurburg as part of my summer hols so i plan to go round the ring but i dont plan to do timed laps or anything so will take it reasonably handy round here. dont plan to do anymore than 4-5 laps anyway.
As for missed down shifts i have never had this problem, long may it continue, but defo something i will ensure that this does not happen longer term.
Thank you for clarifying these issues with the pump, Sudesh thought it should not be so much of an issue for me, but as he refers to you as 'the master' ... thought i would still get your advice
I will now try to reduce my concern (use this term loosely more just a big question mark) around this area :)
many thanks for clearing this up for me
regards
andrew
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1
I am hopeing to clear something up before taking my car apart, i contacted Lings Honda, no reason other than top of the google list, and asked them for a price for a DBW main relay but they say that my car has the other relay
http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/ho...block_03=21787
as shown in the diagran as number 11 but i've been in that part of my CAR and the relay is not their.
The man on the phone said it has to be but i'm sure its not, before i remove the other panels, as i am poor at DIY, is their another way to confirm which one i need.
Mine is a '97 manual 3.0 if that helps.
any help would be appreciated, i have a photo but cannot work out how to add it to the post, sorry.
Tim
Hi, Tim.
The answer is simple.
The parts list/diagram doesn't always show the actual shape/location of each parts for all Year models.
As you experienced, there is only one diagram on the parts list for the two different shape/location of Main relays for DBW and non-DBW models.
Presuming that you have RHD model and if you want to be sure, please have a look at under the bonnet or inside the engine bay.
DBW model
Attachment 7308 Attachment 7309
You need Main Relay #39400-SL0-A01
You will see LOOPED black cable surrounding the brake fluid reservoir and connected to the black plastic cube box inside the front compartment under the bonnet.
Also, at the right side of the engine bay, you will see thick black hose with red text on it. This is the fuel line from the fuel filter.
On DBW model, you WON'T see thick cable running in parallel to the fuel line like the one on non-DBW model below.
non-DBW model
Attachment 7310 Attachment 7311
You need Main Relay #39400-SL0-003
There is no looped black cable surrounding the brake fluid reservoir but still, you will see black plastic cube box nearby so don't get confused.
At the right side of the engine bay, you will see thick black hose with red text on it. This is the fuel line from the fuel filter.
On non-DBW model, you WILL see thick cable running in parallel to the fuel line. This is the TH cable running all the way from the front to the TH body at the left side of the engine and hence, non-DriveByWire.
I'm not a fan of Year model as sometimes, people get confused with registered year against Year model.
You may have 97 registered NSX but not necessarily 97 Year model NSX.
The best is to check against the VIN but if you check the above photos and 100% sure that your NSX is DBW, then your Main Relay is located around the right shoulder of your driver seat for RHD model.
Wow, more than GBP109 for the Main Relay.....
I'm quite sure if you ask Andy at vtecdirect, he would be able to source it much cheaper.
I always keep one each in stock at my place for owners.
Depending on the exchange rate and delivery charge from Japan/US, I would assume it would be about GBP50.00.
Regards,
Kaz
Now back to the TB/WP service on the facelifted Silver NSX.
Originally, we were planning to carry out the TB/WP service together with the Coolant system refurbishment before Japfest. However, I only managed to finish the Coolant system and Crank Pulley services in time due to my personal reason. Thus, some of the parts and Type-2 coolant were wasted by carrying out TB/WP service after the event but I covered these as it was my personal matter causing the changes in plan.
Also, the owner had to drive his NSX all the way to my place again using his precious time and fuel. I offered the owner something but he was a very generous man and gently declined it so instead, I carried out the A/C CCU service and cleaning of A/C cabin temperature sensor for free. Once again, I always feel I’m very lucky to be able to work and meet these generous owners.
So, the service started by talking to the owner.
The owner told me that this would be the first TB/WP service on this NSX but the valve cover was removed by the main dealer in the past for valve clearance adjustment.
So far, he didn’t feel any strange vibration at idling but still got some chattering noise even after the valve clearance was adjusted.
Attachment 7314 Attachment 7315 Attachment 7316
During the last service before Japfest, I noticed unusual amount of oil leakage for such a low mileage NSX so I was also interested to find the cause of this issue.
Attachment 7317 Attachment 7318
The engine area was inspected again.
Last time, I cleaned as much as possible the oil leakage and the oil pan area was quite clean even after the track session and long mileage driving so there was no need to replace the oil pan gasket.
I already had the parts but it was not clear last time whether it was leaking from the oil pan gasket or not due to the excessive oil leakage from the upper area of the engine and leaking down to the oil pan.
Attachment 7319
The spool valve and Oil Press sender unit area were clean apart from the usual leakage from camshaft black cap area so the filter at the spool valve and O-rings for the sender unit were not replaced.
This NSX already got the latest design Lost Motion Assy so there was no need to replace them at this low mileage.
I always carry out the compression check on the engine before opening the engine.
This will provide me with some idea on the condition of the engine by comparing it to the data from lots of other engines measured in the past. NA1 and NA2 engines will show different range and tendency depending on the engine status and measuring conditions.
Attachment 7321 Attachment 7322 Attachment 7320
Removing the injector terminal block at the right side of the engine to disable the fuel injection during the compression check. On earlier models, you will have injector resistor unit instead.
While preparing for the compression test, I noticed that there were lots of leaves around the intake chamber. Not sure how they managed to get in there but had to be cleaned before I can go any further. After cleaning them, the IGN Coils and Spark plugs were removed.
In order to re-install them at the same location, they were marked with the cyl #.
Attachment 7323
As seen on many other NSX, the IGN coil #1 (rear bank) was showing rust at the fixing tab due to the moisture getting inside. Another reason why it is best to replace IGN Coil cover seal at the time of TB service and regularly apply silicone grease until next service.
The rust was smoothed out and silicon grease was applied to prevent future corrosion.
Spark plugs looked fine and burnt in nice light brown colour at the insulator.
One of them showed a little extra oil at the thread so probably not torqued to the spec when it was removed in the past. As it was still at very low mileage, they were not replaced at this point.