Me too, I will need a new LMA when I'm doing the TB, WP etc
Are the LMA different as NA1 and NA2?
I can't believe the price for either LMA is that reasonable! :eek:
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Me too, I will need a new LMA when I'm doing the TB, WP etc
Are the LMA different as NA1 and NA2?
I can't believe the price for either LMA is that reasonable! :eek:
FYI $24 each in the US.
I thought there was a later design perhaps coinciding with the +02 LEV engine? These cars always sound quieter to me.
I had all the valve clearances checked and re-set, although none of them were out apparently, and mine still sounds a little "tappety" as do most earlier cars.
With mine not being double glazed and also having the mesh engine cover it sounds a bit clattery in the cabin hence the desire to upgrade.
Cheers
Mark
Would these be stock on the NA2 NSX-R?
When we heard that car on tick over at Chiswick it was for me the quietest engine Ive come across. If this is the result I'll be in the que with you Mark.
regards, Paul
Hi, all.
Originally, Honda designed different Lost Motion Assy (LMA) for MT and AT engines.
It had somewhat complicated design using spring inside the cylinder body. This design was used on both C30A and C32B engine up until the introduction of LEV engine in 99 (JDM).
When LEV engine was introduced, Honda decided to simplify the design of LMA (now just a spring) and also used the same LMA for both MT and AT engines. The parts no for LMA for LEV engine onwards is 14820-PCB-003.
In 2006, Honda decided to stop manufacturing the original LMA with complicated design (spring inside the cylinder) for the pre-LEV engines and superseded it to the latest LMA 14820-PCB-003 as above.
This raised lots of question marks as the body length of the latest LMA was shorter than the original ones.
We actually raised concern to Honda regarding this.
In fact, when my master used the latest LMA on the pre-LEV engine with high lift camshaft, it made more mechanical noise than before.
So, he designed a thin spacer to be seated at the base of latest LMA to make the body length to be the same as the original one. I think SoS designed similar products for different reason.
After long waiting, finally Honda released a new version of LMA for pre-LEV engines to match the body length of original LMA design.
The parts no of LMA for pre-LEV engines is 14820-PCB-305 and this is the one that I purchased for my engine.
As each country has different definition for ‘year model’, it is best to check the actual LMA parts number used on your engine based on the VIN (as long as you haven’t modified your engine).
Regards,
Kaz
In memory...
Attachment 6696 Attachment 6697
Nice pics Kaz, Ayrton would have been fifty today. R.I.P.
Thanks you for the excellent and very complete advice Kaz.
Sounds like only late UK pop-up cars (1999-2001) might be in any doublt.
I can be fairly certain that my 1997 built JDM 3.2 needs the retrofit parts, p/n 14820-PCB-305, that you are fitting to you car.
How much does a set of these cost?
Cheers
Mark
How many of them are there, one per valve (24) or one per lifter/rocker set/finger (12)?
You need 12.
Kaz
By the way, if your engine is LEV onwards equipped with the later LMA 14820-PCB-003, then you are very lucky because they will survive much longer than the original ones used on pre-LEV models like mine.
This is why I'm going to replace it some point this year as I'm in the process of creating new engine re-fresh menu.
Regards,
Kaz
http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/
You might find this link useful for part numbers and exploded diagrams. (Usual disclaimers apply :))
Spent last Friday with Kaz at his place for a health check and a CCU overhaul.
I know I only repeat what others say but as an owners club we are so lucky to have Kaz and his services.
as well as checking various maintainance aspects I also learned so much more about my car
Also pleased to have Kaz check the CCU I was not having problems but as my car is now 13 years old thought it best to have the CCU overhauled.
It was only when the unit was out that it was very evident that some
work had been done on the unit for or by a previous owner, unfortunately
not to a very good standard,
So the check may well have saved the unit.
so now just have to get on with the tasks to be done.
A job well done Kaz.
and many Thanks Chris :)
97 3.0T Auto
04 Civic 1.6
01 MX5 1.8
I’m glad at least some of us recognised his birthday.
Around this time of the year and early May always make me emotional… I kept lots of photos working with him.
The 2nd photo is me working on his dash.
Chris, thank you for your kind message.
It was nice meeting you and your NSX.
Please allow me some extra days for the Health Check Report and the CCU service as addition to my normal business, I’m still trying to reply back all the emails and PM while working on another NSX during my spare time ….
Regards,
Kaz
Nice to know there is only one degree of separation between me and the great man(having never met him.(although I did meet Bruno once :))
Anyway, Hi Kaz, any more information on the headers and how your going to deal with the heat problem? I know I should be replacing old hoses but headers are getting so very tempting, possibly with a taitec 06 silencer. :D
I recognised the great man's birthday by wearing my special TAG and taking his legacy out for a 150 miles of spirited driving, just as he would love to have done (albeit lacking some of his finesse).
Hi, Kaz.
As I sit in my study I have memorabilia all around me including his autograph mounted with the official FIA poster for that weekends events.
Gone but never forgotten.
I thought that the second photo may be of significance.
Regards and good to see you yesterday.
Paul
As the easy option I fitted Bosch wiper blades when new were needed
please be aware these sit slightly higher than the Honda blades and
the nearside wiper arm catches the underside of the bonnet resulting in bare metal on both.
Easily repaired but also easily avoided.
The Honda blade and carrier is believe it cheaper than Bosch from Halfrauuds
or your local motormania.
The complete wiper from Honda is only £9.16+vat, and as mentioned its complete with spoiler [drivers side] and metal frame. Price is the same for passenger side.
I cannot believe it, but a OEM NSX part for around a tenner! :eek:
I hope my wife is not watching this website....
As I had so many parts delivered and struggling to store them properly, I decided to keep them in my wife's room....
Nice looking parts....
Attachment 6732
Just arrived. Lots of Driveshaft Boot kit.
Attachment 6733
ABS upgrade loom. Where is my ABS controller, Honda Japan? It was out of stock but should be arriving from Japan soon, I hope...
Attachment 6734
I'll promise to hoover the carpet soon...
Kaz
Kaz what header is that?
Is that the SOS loom or have you found another supplier???
Doesnt look like it unless the changed it along the way
http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produc...BS_harness.jpg
Back to the wipers,
when i bought the new blades HUK said the drivers side with the wind deflector on it is no longer available and the part No has been changed to the same as the passenger side ie a simple blade and carrier
Being the hoarder I am I still had the original driver side assembly , repainted and replaced the new rubber blade.
Honda apparently have a standard price for wiper blades irrespective of model
or size.
wiper blade for the NSX is part No H76630SL0306 price £9.16 each
As mentioned, you can buy the whole assembly new, its not discontinued as I bought mine about 2 months ago and the part numbers are different for driver and passenger side. I also just ordered another one on Monday and have it sitting here in front of me brand new from Honda with the spoiler!
The "76630-SL0-309" you mentioned is the passenger side and I mentioned that a few post back:
See here:
76620-SL0-309 Drivers side
76630-SL0-309 Passenger Side
Hi, Chris and Sudesh.
Although it looks as if the information from both of you conflicts each other, you are both talking almost the correct thing.
What you don't know is the difference between JDM and UK models. Interesting enough, it's also different from other country models as well.
Driver side:
JDM: Originally, 76620-SL0-003 (550mm). Superseeded to 76620-SL0-309.
UK: Originally, 76620-SL0-E01 (500mm). Superseeded to 76630-SL0-306. Same parts as on the passenger side.
Passenger side:
JDM: Originally, 76630-SL0-003 (550mm). Superseeded to 76630-SL0-309.
UK: Originally, 76630-SL0-E01 (500mm). Superseeded to 76630-SL0-306.
The spec of the wiper arm is different between JDM and UK at the driver side ONLY. So, not sure whether you can fit JDM 309 on the driver side of UK NSX.
Simple :) …
Kaz
I am just about to change the engine oil and filter, the oil filter I have is shorter than the one on the car, Honda tell me that the longer ones have been discontinued, is this correct and is it ok to continue with this smaller one 15400-PL2-505 ?
I'll be using Mobil1 0w 40w as recommended by Kaz.
Also going to change the transmission oil as well.
Hi, Nytram.
Apology for not being able to provide you with the short instruction for doing the Oil/filter/MTF replacement. I need to finish Chris's Health Check Report first while doing my main business and working on another NSX at the same time.
Yes, you are correct. From quite a while ago, we were no longer able to purchase the tall body filter from Honda. Just use the shorter one and I normally replace it at every oil change interval.
If you are doing the MTF, it would be best if you can try to check the strainer as well.
Be careful not to break the fixing tab of the strainer cover. There will be lots of corrosion (you can't see it until you remove it) at the strainer cover making it very difficult to remove unless it was treated in the past.
You may find some metal powder inside the strainer which is not unusual.
However, if you find any metal pieces, then pay extra attention to your shift feeling and be prepared/plan for O/H in the future. Any big metal debris will be trapped by the magnet next to the oil pump housing before reaching the strainer so it's just a brief health check.
Please use MTF-3 from Honda, if you don't track your NSX.
You need just below 3.0L (about 2.7L) so try to bring empty container with you when visiting Honda. Don't buy the 1.0L ones individually sold at the dealer. Just ask them to pour 3.0L into your container from the dealer's 25L one. It's cheaper than buying the 1.0L ones.
Oh, and as others suggested in the past, make sure to loosen the filler plug first before draining the MTF. I never had any issues but if you can't open it, you will be in trouble after draining the MTF.
Regards,
Kaz
Many thanks Kaz it's really apprieciated, I will be in touch to schedual the next stage of work/improvements that you recommended.
Regards Martyn
hello Kaz, congratulation for your admirable work on our NSX, you have gold fingers!!! , can you give me N° of the parts has to order to replace the strainer gear box? then I to ask you or order themselves all your parts? thank you very much
In Japan, you can get hold of the ABS upgrade loom from a few places.
As far as I know, that loom on the SoS site is actually from one of the shop in Japan.
As the ABS controller is now built into the ABS module, the system diagram is much simple than it used to be and thus, I could have made the loom by myself.
However, due to my previous experience, I wanted to use the Teflon coated wires for the loom under the bonnet behind the radiator using proper crimping tool for the specific terminals. You can get hold of the white 18pin and 20pin mating connectors for the original ABS controller box quite easily but you may struggle with the big black/orange one.
As I had to order the Teflon coated wires in a batch of 100m for each colours, it was much cost effective to simply buy the loom than making my own one.
After some investigation and visiting the actual shops, I decided to purchase it from KSP Engineering in Tokyo, Japan.
They are probably the most well known shop for NSX in Japan.
My new header is from them as well and I’ll touch on this with actual dyno data when I have more time…
Kaz
Hi, Thunder.
Unlike the engine oil filter, you will re-use the MTF strainer (filter) once you have inspected and cleaned it so don’t throw it away.
Attachment 6738 Attachment 6737
Strainer cover looks like this and you just need to replace the O-ring after removing the cover.
You will see above parts inside the cover. The O-ring is located at the cover.
If you have never done this before, it would be best to get hold of spare strainer cover in case you have damaged it.
Attachment 6739
O-ring: 91307-PR8-005
Strainer Cover: 21261-PR8-000
You can get them from your local Honda garage.
Good luck.
Regards,
Kaz