Does Such A Person Exist???:eek:
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Hi Kaz
I managed to change the oils without too much drama, just one mistake whilst reinstalling the strainer cover I put a smige of copper ease to help with future removal, but reading some other info you have posted I have realised this is a no no since it's aluminium, so I removed it again and replaced with silicon grease hope thats right.
While the car was on jacks, I was trying to decide which is the best thing to do next, I think the driveshafts are high on the list I can't see any splits in the rubber boots but there is lots of old grease around the suspension parts, and turning the wheel you can hear the metallic clunk.
Can you let me know when you can refresh these please, in the meantime I presume I wont harm anything by giving the whole affected area a good clean.
Regards Martyn.
Ah... If you are going to work on the Left side driveshaft, you will need to drain the MTF before removing it. Otherwise, your hair will be covered in that smelly MTF.
From my record, I think it was the left side driveshaft that was leaking, I'm afraid ...
If you can remove the driveshafts and send/bring them to me, I should be able to turn them around within a few days even working on other projects.
I think I have enough driveshaft boot kits in stock for you but I'll double check as I don't want to run out of stock while lots of deliveries are being delayed with recent aerospace drama.
My wife is still in Japan due to her flight being cancelled and because of the long national holiday in Japan during the last week of this month and early May, the earliest flight that she managed to re-book was for the middle of May!
Just in time for Japfest so I have some extra days before I need to clear up all the parts stored in her room.... I want to fit my header and ABS upgrade before Japfest but looks like no time for that ...
Kaz
thanks Kaz I was presuming that the removal of the driveshafts would be quite technical and needed to be done by you, however if you think it's a straightforward operation I can give it a go.Do I need any special tools or sockets etc?
Otherwise I can wait until you have time to squeeze me in.
Hope you can make some time to fit your upgrades to your own car.
Thanks for the reply NSXGB and for the info on the cheap oil the other day.
regards Martyn
Hi, Martyn.
Some advice on removing the drive shaft.
Right side is easy but you may struggle with the Left one.
You can follow the workshop manual but it is best to customise your procedure based on what other services you are carrying out at the same time. Also, you may want to be creative to try different procedure like me but you’ll need some understanding on the chassis structure before doing so.
You will need to loosen the spindle nut holding the driveshaft to the hub.
If it was never removed in the past, you will really going to struggle. There are several techniques to loosen it if it is very tight.
I use 36mm size 1’ impact socket, 1000mm breaker bar with the assist of floor jack while applying full body weight.
In the worst case scenario, I will take the NSX to local HGV garage where it has the huge impact wrench with sub-tank attached to it.
Attachment 6796
You may struggle to slide out the outer joint from the hub if it was never removed in the past. The spindle could get corroded and the outer joint may bond to the hub. If that is the case, you can use hydraulic puller to push it out.
You need to be very careful not to damage any of the oil seals when removing the inner joints. Due to the length of the inner joint on the Left drive shaft, it is so easy to make tiny damage to the seal. However, you can easily replace the seal so not a big problem.
Attachment 6795
As NSXGB mentioned, you need to get hold of the torque wrench which can cover 329Nm.
Regards,
Kaz
Thanks Kaz
I will try to get a workshop manual and read a bit more.
If i don't feel brave enough could you pm me to let me know when you could do it.
Regards Martyn