Printable View
Kept running the system on the bench for a few hours and then started the actual installation on the NSX.
Attachment 7826 Attachment 7827
Centre console removed to check the good GND for the head unit.
Using several Tyrap to secure the adaptor cable that was connected to the factory pre-installed CD changer cable behind the seat.
Attachment 7828 Attachment 7829
Adaptor cable inside the arm rest box.
USA Spec PA11-HON installed.
Attachment 7830 Attachment 7831
Being tested with my old iPod mini. It will work with latest iPhone as well.
Testing the system inside NSX. Playing 98th file.
Finally, all the services are done and ready for the collection.
Now need to work on another NSX straight away for brakes, driveshaft, ABS, etc and then another two NSXs for the TB/WP/Valve clearance plus one of them needs full coolant hoses service….
I also need to work on my NSX as well.
It’s time for the full timing belt service plus engine refresh including the Lost Motion Assy…
I need more space, more tools and especially, the time.
Will be back in the near future.
Regards,
Kaz
Kaz, does that mean that if you replace the window seals with new ones, you should not adjust the windows to the specifications in the Service Manual? In all the Service Manuals I have (physical for model year 1991 and various electronic up to model year 2005), the alignment specifications are all the same. If the proper alignment specifications have changed, it must be special know-how!Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1
Hi, greenberet.
There are lots of things not even touched in the workshop manual and it will be a long story if I start talking on them so I'll try to be short.
Workshop manual is great for understanding the basic structure and reference for the torque spec and procedure.
However, as it is on the paper or through the ordinary display, it is in just 2D.
Also, because of its main purpose, each pages/sections is only focused on the specific part and not combining multiple parts as a total package.
You need to be aware that there are several mistakes in the torque spec and some of the procedures were modified over the years.
Some people may not agree with this but in my view, working on the car will have big difference in the final result or conditions over the years by having 3D imagination and looking at multiple parts as a total package rather than just a single part/section.
For example, regarding the window alignment, the workshop manual is a good starting point but that is based on the new car came out of the factory.
During its life, the car you are working on with may have some of the body panels replaced, the alignment of the door panel itself may have shifted by now, the window glass holder/support may have bigger play than when it used to be and so on.
And on top of this, you need to check the combination of the sash and the weatherstrip.
If you imagine the complex shape of the door glass and how it should sit over/against the weatherstrip, then you can evaluate the procedure, gap and torque figure in the manual to see whether they are the best and correct or not.
By the way, I’m always impressed with the shape of the engine hatch glass. That beautiful curve alone is an art.
Quite often, you can create or find different procedure by having the total package view.
On top of these, almost always you will need to apply delicate final tweak for each NSX because although they were built by Honda, each NSX has different amount of spacers/shims/etc and thus, each of them are slightly different.
If you have seen how the NSX was built at the factory, you will be amazed how each craftsmen use their fingers and palm to feel for the tiny difference in the shape/gap/alignment of each parts and adjust them.
In my view, even if you provide exactly the same tools and workhshop manual, the outcome would be quite different depending on the delicate touch, imagination, etc of the person working on the car and for me, they are part of the special know-how.
Kaz
Replaced the Air cleaner element on my NSX.
Although there is a mileage based service interval for this item, I normally decide to replace it earlier by using the following method.
Attachment 7847 Attachment 7848 Attachment 7849
The old and new ones.
Honda changed the colour of air cleaner several years ago and it's green for the time being. What will be the next colour??
I normally hold the air cleaner element against the sun and check whether I can see through enough sunlight or not.
When the weather is not great, I just use LED light instead of the sun.
I'm not great in taking photo under this kind of light condition so it doesn't show the actual amount of light passing through the filter but hope you can get some idea on what I was trying to do.
Compared to the new one, the old one didn't pass through enough lights and so decided to replace it.
Kaz
Once again, started to work on another NSX.
It went though my Health Check awhile ago and brake, ABS, driveshaft, etc were the main areas to be addressed.
There were some parts missing from the car but managed to catch up with the owner one night as I was just happened to be in the area close to his place.
During my Health Check service, it was quite scary to drive this NSX.
While you were pressing the brake pedal to slow down the car, the pedal was kicked back at super fast frequency every time when the car was just about to stop.
The kick back frequency felt like 10 times faster than the normal ABS one.
There was no ABS warning light nor any error codes stored.
So, before start removing the parts, I decided to carry out further investigation on the strange brake pedal kick back.
This time, I kept the window open and drove at very slow speed.
I found that from time to time, the ABS pump was cycling almost every 10sec but not always.
If I used the hard braking, the ABS will kick in properly so at least, some of the solenoids were operating correctly.
Attachment 7850
I decided to force the ABS to fail by disconnecting/connecting one of the solenoids connector while the engine was running and carried out the same test driving procedure.
This time, there was no issue at all and I didn’t feel a single kick back during the session.
Considering the state of this ABS system, it is possible that it may have multiple issues.
The system will be flushed including the four solenoids but it may require replacing the accumulator module like the member 'britlude' reported in his thread awhile ago.
Depending on the usage of this NSX, considering the potential failure in the future and the benefit of the upgraded ABS kit, it may worth investing into the upgrade than trying to repair this 1st generation system.
To be discussed with the owner later.
Time to prepare the car for the services.
As the car was quite dirty, I decided to wash it first as I didn’t want to scratch the paint work with my cloth and also there were some sort of mould built up between the wiper and the bottom of the windshield.
Attachment 7851 Attachment 7852
While briefly looking inside the engine bay, I noticed that the connector for the engine hatch glass switch was partially disconnected. Turned out it was done on purposely as the engine hatch switch was already dead and continuously creating short circuit.
The bonnet opener/lock was stuck so gave it a good clean.
The initial check on the general condition of the car.
Attachment 7853 Attachment 7854 Attachment 7856
There were lots of corrosion on the bolt, nuts, etc around the brake area.
Attachment 7855
I’m quite sure I’m going to struggle with these fittings at each corners. Quite often, the fitting and the pipe bonded each other due to heavy corrosion and if you tried to turn the fitting, it would twist the pipe.
I'll first need to turn the hose side to disconnect it from the fitting and then use my fingers to break the bonding between the fitting and the pipe. I love challenges....
Attachment 7857
The right side drive shaft splashed so much grease everywhere that I’ll need to spend long time for cleaning the area.
Attachment 7858 Attachment 7859
The wheel speed trigger teeth at the drive shaft were covered in lots of debris.
Could be related to the cause of ABS issue but it only happens at dead slow speed so not sure.
Will check the state of the wheel speed sensor head once I have removed the drive shaft.
At this stage, it is not planned to work on the left side but I may need to do it as the trigger teeth was in similar condition....
Attachment 7860 Attachment 7861
Both Front and Rear brake callipers looked never serviced in the past....
Can't wait to see the inside.....
Another long long days with NSX starts from here...
More to follow.
Kaz
Wow, there's heavy corrosion on the metal parts. :eek:
Dear Kaz, thank you for the explanation. It makes perfect sense and reminds me of what a specialist shop told me years ago about my motorcycle.
They said that the manufacturer recommended service plan was developed for the needs of the motorcycle when it was new. As it gets older, additional points need to be addressed and procedures need to be adapted. After a certain point, blindly following the service manual is no longer what is best for the machine. Based on the factory service manual and their own experience, the shop developed a new service plan tailored to the needs of older motorcycles of my make and model.
Thinking about it, my NSX would surely also benefit from such sympathetic care instead of simply following the service manual.
Have been away from this site for awhile but now I'm back.
While looking at the engine bay, I noticed lots of leaves inside the V-bank and surrounding area. So, decided to clear them out first.
Attachment 7868
This is not all of them but still, quite a lot. For some reason, this is not the first time I saw this amount of leaves inside the engine bay. Possibly something to do with the air flow caused by the wind inside the engine bay while you park, where you park and with the engine cover on…
Attachment 7869
Looks like the oil filter ….
I knew it would be tight with so much corrosion on the case and it already lost its original shape. Worried that I may not be able to apply enough torque before the attachment starts to slip… Challenge continues….
Attachment 7870 Attachment 7871 Attachment 7873
In the process of removing the right drive shaft.
I found that the Rear O2 sensor was replaced with aftermarket one but the cable was not long enough. It was using some sort of fixing to hold the cable to the bracket but the connector was not secured at the original position.
The heatshield covering the inner joint of right drive shaft was missing one of the three fixing bolts. It was not seared off but just missing…
The cable for the oil pressure sensor was not held in place. Not the first time to see this....
Attachment 7874
The spline was really seized into the hub. Even with the hydraulic puller, I had to leave it overnight. Eventually, it came out slowly.
Attachment 7875 Attachment 7876 Attachment 7877
The right drive shaft.
Initially, I thought the lots and lots of debris on the trigger teeth were contaminated grease from the outer joint.
However, when closely inspected, it was actually the trigger teeth got corroded and lost their original sharp shape.
We were very lucky that I already started rebuilding the right drive shaft using my spares as it is not cost effective to restore these 10’s of trigger teeth one by one using micro file.
Comparison of the good and bad trigger teeth in the photo. The refurbished outer joint painted in black with high temperature spec paint.
Also, there is no guarantee that the rollers inside this outer joint are not damaged after seeing so much grease splashed everywhere.
Attachment 7878 Attachment 7879
Spending hours cleaning these sticky nasty grease….. Already used more than 1L of cleaning agent…
Attachment 7880 Attachment 7881
Due to the corrosion at the trigger teeth, the sensor head was scraped and pushed back a little.
It was not enough to kill the sensor and because the sensor was still working, it didn’t trigger any error at ABS or TCS.
However, because of the increased gap, the signal level got weaken at lower speed. I think the combination of wider gap at the sensor head and badly corroded trigger teeth caused the high frequency brake pedal kick back every time when the car was just about to stop.
Attachment 7882
The new sensor head looks like this.
From the past experience and the report from another owner, I knew I’m going to struggle to take the sensor head out of the hub.
At the end, I had to destroy the sensor head as the corrosion was all around the sensor housing and fatten it. When the sensor is new, the housing is in black as above photo. However, when it came off, it was covered in white corrosion dust.
My biggest concern now is the left side drive shaft. The trigger teeth is in the same condition as the right side and I presume the sensor head is also damaged by now.
Unfortunately, I don’t have spare MT left drive shaft nor the spare RL speed sensor. I may not be able to fix the brake pedal kick back issue without working on the left side so I think we need to work on this next time…
Attachment 7883 Attachment 7884 Attachment 7885
The ABS accumulator.
As the member britlude reported, I thought about replacing the accumulator and pressure switch Assy from US as I think it is part of the ABS multiple issues.
However, after looking at the state of the ABS, I decided it is not cost effective to invest into this old/tired system.
There is no guarantee that it won’t fail in a few years time. Considering the state of the brake pipes and other ABS parts, we are now discussing about investing into the latest one body ABS module instead.
Attachment 7888 Attachment 7887
Disassembling the brake calliper.
The inner pad on both Front callipers was seized inside the calliper bracket. I had to hammer them out to take them off.
This will result in very solid pedal feeling yet the car won’t slow down efficiently. Quite lot of owners are getting used to this feeling and won’t notice the lack of stopping power.
All four callipers were not seized but the slider mechanism was very heavy on all of them. When checked the state of the grease at the slider pins, it was almost dried up and not like a grease. In fact, when I wiped it off, it came off in block shape….
Another reason why it is so important to have your brake system refurbished at regular interval.
Attachment 7886
I don’t think I can re-use this banjo bolt….
Attachment 7889
Nicely corroded bolts at the rear brake hose bracket.
More to follow…
Wow, that's a nightmare of an amount of rust. :eek:
Hi Kaz,Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1
Which liquid gasket do you use or recommend? Hondabond?
Is this the correct part number for the gasket set - 12030-PR7-010?
Hi, NSXGB.
In UK, I don’t have enough experience to recommend alternative products so Honda bond would be my first choice.
In Japan, I always use the specific one from one of the chemical company. In fact, I always keep them in stock at my place and brought them with me to UK.
As same as the grease that I use, this is part of my know-how so I would like to keep it for the people using my services.
Regarding the gaskets, there are lots of them replaced during the TB service.
Please refer to post #345 for the parts list. If you haven't changed the default 'view' setup for the NSXCB site, then it is on Page 35.
I think you are referring to the one used at the head/valve cover and if that is the case, then your number is correct. Please note that you need two for servicing both head/valve covers.
Regards,
Kaz
All lovely Kaz but when are you going to offer the clutch service? Enquiring minds want to know LOL!
All four callipers are now removed.
Attachment 7890 Attachment 7891 Attachment 7892
As I don’t want any debris to get inside while I’m installing the pistons, boots, seals, etc, all of them need to be cleaned and washed thoroughly. It’s going to take a while….
Attachment 7893
Looks like a bleeder screw… Completely corroded…
Attachment 7894 Attachment 7895
No wonder why the pistons were so heavy to move. I’m afraid none of them were re-usable.
Attachment 7896 Attachment 7897
In fact, none of the pistons on all four corners were re-usable.
All six pistons are going to be replaced with the new ones.
Attachment 7898
I don’t think I’ll be re-using these hoses ….
Challenge continues…
Kaz
While cleaning the brake callipers, wanted to finish the re-built of RH drive shaft. The inboard joint side was already done while I was working on the previous NSX so needs to finish the outer one.
Attachment 7919
Cleaned the outboard joint and inspected the inner wall. You need to clean it to this level to inspect it thoroughly.
Attachment 7920 Attachment 7921 Attachment 7922
Planting the tiny pin bearings with new grease and filling the housing up with extra grease before closing it.
All six rollers are now ready for the re-built.
Finished the re-built.
Attachment 7923 Attachment 7924
Attachment 7925 Attachment 7926
So, something looked like this is now replaced with this one.
Attachment 7927 Attachment 7928
The trigger teeth looks completely different now.
Attachment 7929
Installed on the car.
Finished cleaning the brake calliper and in the process of refurbishment service.
Needs to push a lot as there are two NSXs waiting for the TB/WP services as well as full cooling system refresh. Some of the parts are already at my place…
Doesn’t help having two F1 Grand Prix events back to back….
More to follow.
Kaz
Brake system refurbishment.
While the outside of the calliper and bracket were very rusty, the internal wall was very clean.
Although we could have soda blasted to clean/remove the rust and powder/paint coated the calliper/bracket, we decided not to do so as we felt it would be better to invest into the future upgrade of the calliper to the later spec.
The surface of the calliper and bracket were cleaned as much as possible so that I can apply the specific material to the certain area. This will make big difference in preventing the rust from these areas until the next brake refresh service.
Attachment 7952 Attachment 7953 Attachment 7954
Some of the parts for the Front side service. Double checking the installation by operating the pistons. Both pistons should move smoothly with the fingers.
Attachment 7955 Attachment 7956
Moving onto the Rear side. Some of the parts used for the service plus the parking brake mechanism. There are other parts inside the rear piston for this mechanism and we are going to use new piston so they will be replaced as well.
Attachment 7957 Attachment 7958
Again, after the installation of the piston, it will be double checked by operating it. Important to set the groove of the piston at the right angle. Sometimes, I found the rear inner brake pad not operating properly due to the wrong angle.
Attachment 7959 Attachment 7960
I don’t think I can re-use this slider pin (the lower one in the photo) so replaced with the new one.
All four callipers have new bleeder screw now.
Attachment 7961 Attachment 7962
Didn’t feel safe to re-use the old tired rubber brake hose so requested Goodridge to build specific length hose for us.
The length is good for both original and later calliper spec and already tested on my NSX for many years using both type of callipers.
So, when the owner is ready for the upgrade, he doesn’t need to replace the brake hose again especially at the rear side.
Also, we decided not to replace the corroded brake pipes as we are going to replace them especially the Front ones during the ABS upgrade process in the near future.
It was very tricky to install the new hoses as the flair nut was completely seized to the pipe and thus, I had to rotate the hose side first, torque it to the spec without causing any kink when connecting to the calliper.
Still needs to finish the installation of the rear right wheel speed sensor, refresh of brake master cyl, torque the suspension bolts/nuts under 1G, ABS flush, replace Main Relay, replace engine oil & filter and service the Bose AMPs.
Aiming to return this NSX to the owner very soon and start working on two more NSXs. Both will go through the TB/WP/Valve clearance + cooling system service.
It’s going to be fun replacing more than 20 coolant hoses when it is cold…
More to follow.
Kaz
Attachment 7963
Additional photos from rear calliper installation.
Attachment 7964 Attachment 7965 Attachment 7966
New rear brake hose installed.
Brake pipe and hose torqued to the spec using digital torque wrench.
Attachment 7967 Attachment 7968 Attachment 7969
RH drive shaft spindle nut torqued to the spec.
New RR wheel speed sensor installed.
Honda discontinued this speed sensor for earlier models for RR side so you can only get hold of the later spec one.
You will need to modify the angle of one of the cable bracket before the installation.
When we are ready to work on the LH drive shaft, we will need to replace the trans case seal. It’s already leaking and in fact, I replaced it for another owner several months ago.
Push, push. I must finish this NSX very soon....
Kaz
Overhaul (OH) of Brake Master Cyl.
Attachment 7973 Attachment 7970
Lots of residue was trapped at the filter so looked like the master cyl was not serviced for many years.
In fact, at the base behind the master cyl, it was leaking but as the leaked brake fluid stripped the black paint off the brake booster surface, the debris was blocking the seeping hole and hiding the issue.
Attachment 7971
Master Cyl OH kit. Sometimes, it is quicker to replace the entire cyl as an assembly including the reservoir but this one was not too bad and saved the cost by overhauling it than replacing.
English manual states as ‘do not try to disassemble the master cylinder assembly. Replace the master cylinder assembly with a new part if necessary’ and thus, no instruction on how to OH it.
In Japan, we used to be forced to OH it every 2 – 3 years by law so there is a specific manual in Japanese.
Attachment 7974
Once overhauled, we need to double check the pushrod clearance. Although it is very unusual to adjust it, I have no idea whether someone touched it in the past or not so always check it.
Attachment 7976 Attachment 7977
After bench bleeding the master cyl by tilting the cyl at specific angle, it is installed on the car. Pressure bleed the system, left it overnight for the leak check then test driving session followed by another pressure bleed and leak check.
ABS flushing.
While driving this NSX at low speed with window opened, I noticed that the ABS pump was operating almost like every 10sec so I knew the solenoids are leaking or the accumulator bladder is not holding the right pressure.
Attachment 7975 Attachment 7978
Using ABS SST to release the high pressure fluid from the accumulator.
Flushed the system twice before moving onto the solenoids flush.
All four solenoids were not sticky and operated fine which is a good news.
Flushed the system again twice and waiting for the test driving session.
However, looking at the amount of high pressure fluid returned to the SST, as predicted, looks like we may have accumulator issue. As discussed, considering the usage of this NSX and condition of other ABS parts, it would be more cost effective to invest in the ABS upgrade than trying to replace the parts on this original system.
This will leave us with replacing the Engine Oil & Filter, Main relay and refurbishing Bose speaker AMPs, test driving session and another bleeding with leak check so hope to return this NSX very soon.
Kaz
Replacing the Engine Oil & Filter.
Attachment 7979
This NSX is mainly being used on busy road for short distance so I knew the amount of blowby gas would be significant.
Fortunately or unfortunately, the filler cap was not cleaned thoroughly and you can see the white residue behind the filler cap.
This is the moisture from the blowby gas.
Another reason to replace the engine oil regularly even for short annual mileage NSX.
Attachment 7980
Removing the Eng Oil Filter.
To prevent eng oil from touching the suspension area and stiffener frame, I normally use plastic bag around the filter before removing it. Saves the time cleaning the area.
Attachment 7981 Attachment 7982 Attachment 7983
New OEM filter and probably bit too cautious but to keep the same procedure, I always fill it up with the new oil before installing it.
New filter installed. Don’t put too much torque as you will struggle to remove it next time.
You don’t need big torque once the gasket has seated properly.
While waiting for the old engine oil to drain out from the oil pan as much as possible, decided to replace the Main Relay.
Normally, it is easy to remove the horizontal upper interior panel behind the seat as you only need to push down on it and remove the three fixings.
However, on this NSX, it turned into another challenge session due to someone decided to glue down the panel to the firewall. After some investigation, it became clear that the only way to remove the panel is to apply enough force to break the glue even if it may take out the brackets or even damage the panel.
So, phoned the owner, explained the situation and got authorisation for taking the risk.
Attachment 7984 Attachment 7985 Attachment 7986
Finally, the panel came off. The strange looking glue at the firewall. It was not even using the correct fixings/clips to glue the panel.
Need to re-plant the brackets back on the panel and use the proper clips for the instalaltion.
Attachment 7987 Attachment 7988
The original main relay.
Although it didn’t show any issues, it was from week 33 & 35 of 1990.
New one is from week 18 & 20 of 2010.
Attachment 7992 Attachment 7991 Attachment 7990
As in my old post, the original relay was using the old design with the spring whereas the new one is using the mechanical plate.
New one installed.
Attachment 7989
Back to the engine oil.
Managed to extract further 300 – 400cc from the top.
New eng oil into the engine, fire up for leak check and adjusted the level later.
All four wheels are back on the car now and tyre pressure to be adjusted before carrying out the test driving session. Need to work on the speaker AMPs now.
More to follow.
Kaz
Test driven the car for the first time after the mechanical services and bled the brake system once again and leaving the car on the lift overnight for final leak check.
Unfortunately, as suspected, the high frequency brake pedal kick back is still there but better than before the service. We need to work on the Left side drive shaft and rear left wheel speed sensor next time together with ABS upgrade.
Attachment 7993 Attachment 7994
Re-soldered the original Main relay, applied conformal coating and it will be returned to the owner to be used as an emergency spare.
Fortunately, I had the spare clips for the rear upper trim behind the seat and the brackets were repaired overnight so installed it back on the car.
The owner mentioned that the TCS On/Off switch no longer shows the green light at the housing.
Attachment 7995 Attachment 7996 Attachment 7997
So, removed several panels to check the switch and it was clear that someone tried to do something in the past. There was a tape covering the switch housing.
The cause of the issue was someone pulling the connector plug without removing it first.
The receptacle connector on the circuit board was simply pulled away and there was not enough contact to the plug terminals.
This issue is quite common on other switches such as front/rear fog, headlight adjuster, etc located at the centre console.
When working on the centre console without disconnecting the connectors from these switches, you can easily pull the receptacle from the circuit board if you are not careful. Unfortunately, quite often, the switches will operate for a while until the vibration make enough gap at the terminals.
Pushed back the receptacle to where it should be, reassembled everything and now the green light at the switch is back and dash display now shows the ‘TCS OFF’ indicator properly.
Attachment 8000 Attachment 8003 Attachment 8002
While removing the driver side door panel to access the Bose speaker AMP, I found the familiar sight of black glue at one of the door trim. Someone really loves this glue….
Also, there was a sign of glue at the panel behind the door handle as it was cracked.
One of the screw was not even tightened properly. Can’t remember whether the brass colour screw to be used here or at the forward side so need to check the parts list.
Attachment 8004
Looks like someone struggled to put back the clear sheet behind the door panel.
Attachment 8005
When the speaker box was opened, there was no AMP inside. No wonder why there was no sound from the right door.
Instead, someone tried to input the pre-amp signal from the headunit into the speaker but it won’t work like that….
So, installed the refurbished AMP that I provided the owner last year and now the audio is back at the right door.
Attachment 8006 Attachment 8007 Attachment 8008
When I re-assembled everything at the RH door, I checked every switches and I noticed that the ‘Lock’ switch didn’t work.
Not sure whether it was working or not before I removed the door trim as it is possible that I may have damaged it when I disconnected the connector.
However, this is another common failure on our NSX when we deal with this specific connector. For some reason, Honda decided to use non water proof connector on this switch and because of this, the terminals just get corroded and break when we disconnect/connect it.
As expected, the middle terminal was showing green colour corrosion and internal part was broken.
Replaced the terminal with gold plated one, applied silicone grease and now it recovered the functionality.
Of course, I'm not going to charge for this repair.
So, just need to work on the left door and footwell speaker AMPs, wash the car, re-torque the wheel nuts, create the Photo CD and the service log book then return the NSX to the owner.
Next owner is already waiting to deliver his NSX to my place. It will be another TB/WP/Valve clearance and cooling system services while I must prepare myself for several meetings....
Kaz
Left side door speaker AMP.
Attachment 8010 Attachment 8012 Attachment 8009
Once again, glue was used at the front sash to hold the triangle cover in place. These parts can be replaced at reasonable cost so not a big problem.
Someone decided to replace the entire plastic sheet behind the door trim with clear one.
The leakage from the capacitor was quite severe and corroded the AMP metal cover acting as the heatsink.
It was replaced with the refurbished one that I provided the owner last year.
The passenger footwell speaker AMP was also replaced.
The + terminal at the footwell speaker was not connected so no wonder why there was no sound from there.
Now we have beautiful sound from all four speakers.
Personally, when all speakers and AMPs are operating properly, it is good enough as an sport car audio system for me.
Now that we have the audio sound from the speakers, I noticed that once the audio head unit warms up, there is a sand paper like scratching noise even when the volume was turned all the way to zero.
This is exactly the same issue that I saw on the last NSX that I serviced and it looked to be capacitor leakage issue inside the unit.
Next time when this NSX is going to be serviced again, I’ll look into the head unit.
It was pleasure and good experience working on this NSX.
The owner wants to put this NSX back to how it should be and I hope all of the effort that I contributed this time will meet his expectation.
Looking forward to working on this NSX again for the ABS upgrade, LH drive shaft, audio head unit, etc in the near future.
I just hope the next owner will bring his NSX before it starts snowing this week….
Regards,
Kaz
Had problem accessing the site last night so couldn't post this at that time.
Looks fine now....
Time to look after another NSX.
The service menu is carrying out the TB/WP/Valve Clearance with all four camshaft removed, Right side Driveshaft overhaul and Coolant system refresh.
As the owner had good method on getting the parts from US, I gave him the required parts list and most of the parts were sourced by the owner. There were four coolant hoses that were not available on LHD Acura model so these were ordered from Japan.
It saves some time and provides extra room while servicing the right driveshaft/TB when working on the coolant hoses at the Eng Oil cooler. There are only two coolant hoses there but for me, they are the most time consuming ones.
So, started with general inspection around the engine while removing the parts for the driveshaft and preparation for the compression check.
Attachment 8029 Attachment 8030 Attachment 8028
Quite common on our NSX, oil was leaking from the camshaft cap seal. When looked from different angle, there seemed to be no oil leakage from the VTEC spool valve seal on both banks so they are not going to be replaced this time. They can be replaced together with the filter at any time without removing other parts.
Looks like I'm going to spend long hours cleaning the engine again... Another reason why I prefer taking the engine out even just for the TB service...
Based on the service history, the TB was replaced in the past but not the WP. The service schedule only states as ‘check WP at the time of replacing TB’ so quite often, the WP was not replaced during TB service on UK based NSX.
This NSX is still at low mileage for its age and it was still using the original WP. Because of this, the TB Lower cover was also still the original design with seeping hole without the pipe sticking out. These will be replaced to the latest design ones this time.
Initial check on the crank pulley bolt. The owner bought new one so it will be replaced anyway. The bolt was not greased properly during the last TB service so it required extra torque to loosen it but not too bad. There is no point in start removing parts for TB service if I can’t remove this bolt. If it’s too tight, just take your NSX to your local garage dealing with HGV. They normally have huge impact wrench with sub-tank attached to it. They can loosen it for you.
Greased it properly and torqued it back to the spec for warming up the engine for the compression check.
Attachment 8031
36mm spindle nut at the right side driveshaft.
Seems like someone worked in this area in the past as there was a sign that the spindle nut was re-used.
Each driveshaft service kit includes new spindle nut so it will be replaced with the new one.
I have lots of spare spindle nuts any way. If you need one, you can have it for free if you can collect it from my place.
By the way, as same as the crank pulley bolt, if you have problem removing this nut, take it to HGV garage and ask them to loosen it for you with their sub-tank assisted huge impact wrench.