Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Forgot to upload the photo of classic ABS came off from this NSX.

It was already dead with suspected all four solenoids stuck closed.

No ABS at all and just locks up all four wheels yet no ABS warning lights
because there is no feedback from the solenoids and thus,
the controller can’t detect this failure mode.









After fighting against many extra wires obstructing my task,
finally managed to take the old ABS controller out.









Normally, I don’t need to remove this controller box holder
behind the glove box but after removing the ABS controller and
started tidying up so many extra wires,
it became clear that it was best to remove the bracket.











It’s going to take a while before I can start the ABS upgrade loom installation.










While in there, I asked the owner if I can take a look inside
his Cruise Control Unit after the service.

My NSX is JDM so the cruise control will max out at about 72mph.

I can easily add VSS signal divider at the entrance of
controller input port but would like to see whether
Honda designed the circuit board with simple method in
selecting the different country spec or not.

The owner was told in the past that he could no longer use his
cruise control feature because of the aftermarket full ECU.

While it will require extra work for DBW model,
for non-DBW model,
the only signal required from the aftermarket ECU to
the Auto Cruise controller is the NEP (Engine rpm) signal.

If the rpm gauge in the dash is working fine,
then the aftermarket ECU is already sourcing the
required signal so should be able to make it working.

May be something to be done when I return the controller to
the owner in the future.







The ABS Upgrade loom from KSP Engineering with
SCS terminal modification by me.

The small black connectors near the centre of this photo
help a lot when passing the cable through the firewall grommet.

The upgraded ABS requires specific procedure
(IG SW + Brake Pedal + ABS warning light + timer)
in order to clear the error code and removing the fuse or
disconnecting the battery won't clear it.









The two orange connectors inside the cabin that
used to be plugged into the ABS controller will be
connected to these two white connectors.

Using crimp terminal at these
two white connectors is very important.

Unless you can securely fix the cable to something,
you must never use soldering for
fixing the wire to the terminal.

Lots of people are making this mistake.

I know another company is selling ABS upgrade loom
in Japan and as far as I know,
one major NSX vendor in US is sourcing their
ABS upgrade loom from this Japanese company.

That loom is using soldering at the white connector to
attach the wire to the terminal with heatshrink tube on top.

Unfortunately, if the connector and the wires are not
securely fixed to the chassis,
sooner or later,
the solder will crack and cause issues.

I have already seen several owners using this loom with
solder crack issue and helped some of them by
replacing the loom with the crimp type terminal used.




My efficiency started to drop after continuously repeating
the same task of tidying up the wires inside the cabin so
I think I will start installing the brake pipes now to
change the mood.


More to follow later.

Kaz