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Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

ABS Upgrade Preparation

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I’ll be upgrading the ABS to the latest spec for one owner in
new year and I’m writing this in preparation for it.

His NSX is heavily modified in all sorts of areas including the
engine and brake so would like the owner to check the space
under the bonnet so that there won’t be any surprise when I
start working on his NSX.

After talking to the owner and found out that
he uses his NSX on track and also the way he brakes into the corner,
I even considered offering the ABS upgrade using the
NSX-R software and the NSX-R brake booster but with unknown
weight distribution of his heavily modified NSX and also
using aftermarket brake caliper which will result in different
brake balance compared to NSX-R,
decided to go for the standard ABS setup.


In fact, lots of Japanese owners with upgraded ABS together with
big caliper setup are happily improving their lap time using
the standard ABS software so I would rather use the proven setup.









First, in order to remove the existing ABS and then install the new one,
please check that there is no aftermarket solid pipe work etc, in
the green arrow section.

If you are using racing spec radiator with extra thick core or
any additional devices in the green arrow section,
please let me know in advance.

Also, if you have something sitting/above the spare wheel holder plate
(flat silver square object in the right half of the photo),
please let me know as I must move it first before removing the battery.











This area should be clear if you still have your existing ABS unit but
I must have enough space under the ABS modulator bracket in order to
install the new brake pipes connected to the new proportioning valve that
is part of the ABS upgrade.

Again, if you have special lower radiator hose or extra devices behind
the radiator, please let me know.
In Japan, I know some of the owners tracking their NSX are
installing extra devices in this area.







8 x brake pipes will be replaced with new ones including the
two pipes from the brake master cyl.
If you have any aftermarket parts such as brake master cyl stiffener, etc,
please let me know.








I need to have access behind the ABS modulator below the brake booster pack
(the round black housing).
This is where the new brake pipes as well as the ABS upgrade loom are
going to be routed.







I must take your battery out of the bay and then remove the
blower motor fan.
These are required to route the new brake pipes and ABS upgrade loom.
If you have something like security hone, etc, that may obstruct the
process, please let me know.









By looking into the front compartment, you will see
black plastic vertical drain duct next to the blower motor fan.

Behind there, you will see 6 way metal block that connects the
brake and clutch pipes.
I must have access to this.


And if you have modified the front brake pipes especially the end fitting for
any reasons, please let me know.


Hope I have covered everything so that I can simulate the service work with
potential extra work in my head.


Regards,
Kaz



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ABS Upgrade

Comments

  1. PeterW's Avatar
    Hi Kaz,
    This probably sounds like a dumb question, but here goes ... at the bottom of your first picture, above and to the left of the radiatior fan, what is that thing with the five holes with white showing through? Some kind of electrical device. Like the one in the picture, mine's a bit rusty, and I've often thought I'd take it off and give it a lick of paint.
    Thanks
    Peter
  2. modarr's Avatar
    Wow, that's some detail. As I said Kaz, need to get to the car first to have a look.
    What I can say already is that I have Tamioka racing battery that's tiny, and I have just removed it to fit another similar sized battery so there can't be anything in the way if I can get to it easily.
    Radiator is standard. Charger cooler water lines run to a small rad infornt of the main rad so I will need to photograph the route taken to the rad and to the water tank mounted up quite high where the spare wheel sat. Brakes lines are standard apart rom braided hoses.
    No master cylinder upgrades
  3. Sudesh's Avatar
    Peter that's the radiator fan resistor, it helps controls the low speed signal and aids the heat/power dissipation. The resistor is the white part itself and the black slotted frame is a heat shield. Our radiator fans use 3 steps, off low and high
    Updated 02-12-2012 at 09:11 PM by Sudesh
  4. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar
    Hi, Peter.

    As Sudesh mentioned, it’s the radiator fan resistor.

    Depending on the coolant temperature (thermo sensor), the cooling fan control unit decides which mode (hi or low) to be used for the radiator fan.
    This unit also controls the engine bay fan (deleted on later MT models), A/C condenser fans and A/C compressor but I won’t touch on these here.

    When the coolant temperature has reached 84degC and until become below 78degC, it will switch on the radiator fan in low speed mode.
    In order to achieve the ‘low speed’, it simply utilises the radiator fan resistor to reduce the amount of electrical current passing through the circuit as seen in the photo.

    When the coolant temperature has reached 90degC and until become below 84degC, the radiator fan stays in high speed mode by bypassing the radiator fan resistor.

    It will get hot so if thinking of painting, please use suitable one.


    Kaz