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Today at Atelier Kaz - Private NSX Enthusiast, ex-Honda R&D engineer with F1, Indy/CART background

StopTech BBK, etc 17

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Started the skimming process of the e-brake caliper.
You need to review the material used, piston size, caliper design but larger disc diameter, etc.

Very slow process as you need to do it step by step and install/remove the wheel at each step while stressing the e-brake by placing the car on slope.
Two different metal materials in use so had to take extra pre-caution.

Even with all sorts of protection, I inhaled tiny amount of metal dust as I didn't double check the mask fitment…..
Not feeling well….

Started with 2mm skimming but no-where near the ideal clearance so went for 3mm.
Looked OK but when you rocked the caliper body on purposely in diagonal direction (very unlikely to happen though....), not safe enough so went 3.5 - 4.0mm.

Because the e-brake caliper is held by the bolt through metal tube that are surrounded by rubber bush, the whole caliper body can not only slide L <-> R but also can move in all direction around x-y-z axis.
The movement along the circumference of the disc is small but the caliper must retain the strength.

I'm more worried about the load applied when the e-brake was operated at moderate speed.

I won't be able to test all scenarios so decided to stop at 4.0mm skimming which resulted in about 5.0mm clearance against the wheel inner surface under no load condition.

Asked the owner to test this setup under all sorts of conditions then apply coating.

With the larger disc diameter, the e-brake has some level of advantage from the positioning point of view. However, the piston size, caliper body, etc are much smaller than the OEM spec.
Therefore, under certain conditions, I recommned using e-brake with the car in-gear.

When I saw this, not surprised to see the missing bolts at the IG coil covers.

Also, lots of bubbling everywhere....

The oil filler cap has rubber gasket and the coating couldn't even withstand the pressure from the rubber.

The coating was not strong enough that over multiple heat cycling, it melted allowing the loss of bolt torque at the IG coil cover.

Even the bolts holding the IG coil got loose and backed off.

Not good…

OEM cover doesn't have coating material at the bolt seating area but if the coating is hard enough, it can stay there.

Several years ago, similar things happened with one owner with refurbished wheel.

He bought the car from another owner and the wheel was refurbished years before the sale.

While the coating was fine on street driving condition in UK, the new owner took the car through European mountain road with hard braking.

When he got back to UK, he noticed all wheel nuts got loose.

Will try using the ceramic scraper to see whether I can remove at least the coating at the bolt seating area.

It would be best if the owner can strip all this coating and re-coat it using different coating place as I don't think the previous place did good preparation on magnesium.
Also, question mark on the coating quality after seeing all sorts of problem.

Not easy removing/installing the Rear valve cover though with eng kept inside the bay without touching the mount bolt.
On top of this, requires long time for creating oil free mating surface for the valve cover gasket.

Hope to carrying out the installation outing today for first check-up on the BBK and e-brake installation.

Then, wait for tomorrow early morning or evening to carry out the disc/pad bed-in process.