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Today at Atelier Kaz - Private NSX Enthusiast, ex-Honda R&D engineer with F1, Indy/CART background

Eng Refresh + LMA, Health Check, etc 62

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Once again, the poor battery terminal.

As the owner told me that it was done by someone as temporary measure and the owner would be forced to replace it when getting the new battery,
didn't want spending any further time on it.

However, I just didn't feel right with the angle of the terminal when placed on the battery post and also the way the battery was mounted in the tray.

With proper Type-R setup, you don't use this big battery holder case like on the normal setup.

Instead, Type-R would be using heat shield panel and not the case.

Changed the orientation of the case and tied down the holder as much as possible.






Hope the owner will replace this battery to larger capacity as it's not enough to crank the engine if
the car was caught in traffic jam in the cold wet weather in the night with the rear defogger, heater, wiper, headlight, etc in use.

It will exceed the performance of ACG at idle rpm and part of the required energy will be sourced from the battery.

If you stall the engine, that's it.
















In order to reset the later spec one body ABS, one must follow specific sequence that involves the brake pedal, IG SW and this SCS terminal on the ABS upgrade loom.

Disconnecting the battery or removing the fuse won't erase any codes stored.



















Time to prime the fuel system.

Just repeat P1 - P2 - P1 IG sw reset many times allowing the fuel pump to operate for about 2sec each time.

Checked for any leakage and happy with the result.














Already hand cranked the engine well over 100 times and still cranked it many times but now it's time to use the starter power.

With all the spark plugs still removed, it's the best time to do this as there will be very little stress on the rod/crank metals.

Nothing touched at the lower side of the eng but can't take any risks.

After multiple short burst, kept the starter running to raise the oil pressure.

Even with about 200rpm, if done properly, the oil pressure warning light would disappear very quickly and
you will see slight increase on the pressure gauge despite the rpm gauge not moving at all.

Happy with the result and will adjust the oil level later.

















In the meantime, started the vacuum leak check of the cooling system.

Left it for about 40min and no change at the needle so time to vacuum fill the system with Honda Type 2 coolant.

The radiator is now replaced with Koyo Racing Rad so it will take bit more amount.
















By the way, I noticed the small white label on the eng bay glass hatch damper peeling off at both sides.

Exposed to excessive heat or chemical?

This NSX has aftermarket eng cover + header but on my NSX, I don't even use any cover and I have aftermarket header as well yet never experienced like this
so can't be the heat from the eng bay…..



















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