View RSS Feed

Today at Atelier Kaz - ex-Honda R&D, F1, Indy/CART engineer

Final Touch 04

Rate this Entry





Pressure bled the brake.




Silicone grease on the IG coil cover gasket.





Time for the test driving session.


For the first time since this car arrived at my place, finally I can test drive it.

I couldn’t do this before start of the service due to the obvious reason of
head gasket issue.

Although it’s not a fresh eng build, for this type of eng service,
I prefer going gentle with multiple short distance outings and put the car
back on the lift after each outings.
Limit the max rpm at 3,000rpm with max speed 50mph and gradually
increase the limit.
So far, not even engaged the VTEC.

For modern high accuracy engineered engine, you want to drive it
really hard from Day1.


To the Owner;
Noticed several things.




The door mirror switch seemed to be faulty or there is wiring issue nearby.
As soon as you slide the selector switch for R or L mirror, it will activate the
actuator and forces the mirror to point upward.

So, while you are driving, you can’t adjust the mirror or even touch the
slide switch.
I already knew about this when I received this NSX but not nice especially
test driving this NSX for the first time on this occasion.

This is the same on both side so very likely to be switch failure.
May be moisture related as I saw failure on the connector terminal
for the door lock/unlock switch at the door handle as well.


Not fan driving with old front tyres and the alignment is not correct.
Even going through the roundabout slowly was bit tricky and
the steering is pointing fair amount towards the left.




The brake pedal feeling is OK but the car just doesn’t slow down quickly enough.
Especially, the FL pad is not contacting the disc evenly.
Not sure when was the last time all four calipers were overhauled.




So far, the radiator is holding itself.
Wet marking around the rubber cushion where the radiator pin inserted.
Although the coolant level didn’t change, I’ll add just a bit extra coolant without
causing overflow for now.

Please replace the radiator
at the earliest possible opportunity and
please check the coolant level before every time you go out for driving.
With the new header tank, you can see the coolant level without
removing the cap unlike your old one.




As reported ages ago, the right inner driveshaft joint is leaking the grease.


I washed the engine thoroughly and already it was covered in grease.....
Sad......


As reported earlier, the oil is seeping from around the oil pan gasket.
Nothing unusual but just a lot.


Interesting noise/sound from the custom made exh pipe/back box layout.
If you are cruising and simply lift the TH to gradually slow down,
then you will hear steam train whistle like drone/sound when passing
about 1,800rpm.
You won’t hear it if you go through 1,800rpm quickly such as
disengaging the CL or applying brake.


Noisy CL release bearing or the main shaft bearing.
It disappears if you press on the CL pedal.


Activated the ABS several times while the tyre was cold and for now,
the ABS pump is quiet.
However, if it was not activated regularly, it will trigger the pump again and
may even trigger the warning light if it couldn’t achieve the targeted pressure
within 120sec.




Interesting voltage reading.
The cranking speed was always strong even going through the
multiple rounds of compression check and engine fired up instantly
every time.

The battery conditioner was already in conditioning mode after weeks of service
and since it didn't detect any issues during the check mode, I don’t think
it’s battery related but the gauge always shows around 13.2 – 13.5V at idle rpm.

Once the engine starts, the gauge is showing the charge voltage at the ACG
so all I can do is to measure the voltage directly at the ACG to confirm that
the gauge accuracy is not off by miles.

I have seen this phenomenon on some of the early models so it could be
nothing wrong or the ACG reg. is getting weak.

I’ll need to keep eye on this during the long run session as I don’t want to be stranded.



Will carry on with the test driving session and later, will go out for the long run
to apply multiple 30 – 40min session of closed loop fuel control.



Will be returning the car to the owner this Saturday.
Nearly done.
Must service one audio head unit and two speaker AMPs for other owners.....
Monaco......


Kaz



Comments

  1. Kaz-kzukNA1's Avatar





    Further updates for the owner;


    I have now covered about 45miles of many test driving sessions including one long run.
    Still no VTEC moment yet.

    After the long run, carried out the cool down mode and then heat soaked the car for 20min to simulate the traffic jam.
    After about 10min in the heat soak, suddenly, I was greeted with shower of brake fluid from the ABS reservoir while monitoring the bottom of the radiator.

    As suspected, the leaky ABS solenoid is back.
    It’s hit and miss because I managed to manually activate the ABS pump and pressurise the system to the target again but I’m quite sure it will leak again and overflow the reservoir.

    Because of this, if this happens again, it will trigger the ABS warning light so please be prepared.
    ABS warning light means no ABS at all.
    Either carry out DIY overhaul with used solenoid and the new o-ring kit (available from Japan) or upgrade it to the latest ABS if driving your NSX regularly.


    Both front calipers need attention. They are slightly dragging against the disc and the more you wear the pad, the more the drag will be.


    The lower voltage reading on the dash is mainly caused by the gauge issue but also possibility of ACG/battery issue as well.
    When the ACG +B terminal was measured at 14.5V, the gauge was showing only 13.9 – 14.0V and always about 0.5V lower figure was shown than the actual measured data.

    Even though, it’s not normal for the ACG charge voltage to drop down to 13.7V (13.2V on the dash) at idle rpm with no other electrical load so ACG/battery to be checked.
    It seems heat related as well because at the very beginning of the test driving session, even the gauge was showing just over 14V but after the long run and heat soak, it was down to 13.2 - 13.5V again.


    Will carry out another long test driving session after taking shower as I’m covered in brake fluid....
    Joy of working on the NSX....

    Kaz


    Updated 21-05-2014 at 10:54 PM by Kaz-kzukNA1 (Added the photo.)