Blog Comments

Hi Kaz, just popped out and removed my CCU, as it's got a bit of a mind of it's own now.
Not too bad with a bit of gentle prodding to wiggle it out past the cover trim.

After doing the same process for more than 200 times, you will create your own way rather than following the workshop manual.
It was resting in its original place for taking the photo.
I don't have enough hands to hold the camera and the centre console at the same time .

You don't need to completely remove the centre console to take the CCU out.

To me, workshop manual is just a torque reference and even so, some of the torque figures are wrong, in my opinion.
For example, the torque spec of 14Nm for oil pan fixing bolts and nuts.... Way too much.

I don't follow it for removing the drive shaft, engine/gbox or even for the CL services.


Some of the owners already saw my procedure at previuos Silverstone Classic event where I removed the CCU for them by just lifting the centre console with several protection sheet.

Time is money...

Kaz

Well, on our NSX, there are several places where the original parts/manufacturing process had huge safety margins such as the number of spot welding around the frame/panel, LMA, brake, etc so even with this amount of rust, the brake calliper can survive.


By the way, paulc, I replied back to your email immediately after receiving it but so far, haven’t heard from you.

If you didn’t receive my email, could you check whether you have registered your latest email address to your NSXCB account?


Thank you.

Regards,
Kaz

I notice the centre console cover is still in place, do you swap the ccu's without removing the front?

Amazing, surprised there is anything left of the brakes!!

Wow! thats a major weight loss right there. lol

"I need 50Hrs per day....."
But it's like buying a bigger refrigerator, in a couple of weeks it would be full again!

Have fun, stay healthy.

Hi, Paul.
Thank you for contacting me through the email.

Just replied back to your question.

Kaz

Hi, Paul.

Please contact me using the email option through this site.
You must be logged into the NSXCB site and then please click on my user name ‘Kaz-kzukNA1’.

From the drop down menu, please select ‘send email’ option.
If you are browsing the NSXCB site as a guest without logging into it, you won’t see this option.

I disabled PM on my account long time ago as it is not designed for everyday communication with 10’s of owners.


Looking forward to hearing from you again.

Kaz

Kaz how do we get in contact with you???

Regards

Paul

It is still true, overcharging is not good for the health of battery and it will shorten the life of it.

So, long time ago, some of the car manufactures started to add the ACG control logic so that it will only charge the battery at deceleration rpm stage or under braking except for certain conditions where the battery has to be charged immediately. Our NSX is a classic car so .....

Kaz

Thanks Kaz, interesting but electronics really confuses me lol.
Way back when I trained as mechanic(I can't believe it either), I remember being told to watch for over charging, but this was a long time ago, most of the cars I worked on still had a set of points and condensor, When I left the trade in the 90's cars were already getting very complex electrics, so i was left behind.

Hi, gumball. Thank you for the kind word.

Not sure I understood your question correctly but if you are talking about the charging voltage, then there are so many factors to be considered such as the spec of IC regulator, temperature, time after the engine started, load, battery internal resistance, conditions, etc so not simple by just looking at the gauge.

I don’t know how accurate this gauge is but on almost all of the NSX with healthy condition, the IC regulator is regulating it with the gauge reading at about 14.5V to just below 15.0V under normal driving speed. With simple, plain, normal battery, the calculated full charge balance (don't know the correct word in English) is at about 14.5 - 14.8V and later NSX model tends to show about 14.5V whereas early model tends to be just below 15.0V on the dash gauge.

As long as it’s below 15.1V, you are fine.
Although there is a big Zener diode and protection circuit against over voltage in all of the controller modules, most of the smaller modules, driver, etc won’t have it so if you see anything above 15.0V on the gauge, best to check your ACG.

Among the NSX owners in Japan, ACG failure is very rare and in fact, people just replace it with the rebuilt one as a preventative measure even before experiencing any signs of failure.

You can’t judge the condition of ACG by the mileage but just as a reference, I checked my ACG after about 116K miles and still the brush was nowhere near to the limit so just carried on using it and then decided to overhaul it at about 128K miles even I didn’t notice any issues.
Electronically, there was no problem at all but decided to replace some components any way and in fact, it was one of the bearing that was showing some rattle although there was no noise.

Denso products are very reliable.

Kaz

Nice work Kaz.
The car seems to have quite a high charge rate. Can it be too high nowadays?

Thanks Kaz, glad I asked as I would only have wrapped the band once...

Hi, NSXGB.

Ignore the service manual because the new boot band is a different spec.

You need to use the double loop method with commonly available boot band tool.

As I can't attach any extra file to this post, please visit the following link and at the top, you will find the revised TSB 98-018 that will explain the exact procedure.

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?534-Drive-Shaft-03

Kaz

Hi Kaz. Looking at the manual regarding fitting the CV boot bands, is there a specific method for applying the required tension? I know you can buy band tools that a torque wrench fits, to apply specific tension but i cant see a torque setting in the manual.
Secondly the new Honda boot kit comes with bands that do not have locking tabs, I presume these are just pulled through the hoop to the right tension, folded back on itself 180 degrees and the loop crimped lightly to lock it?
Thanks in advance.

Hi, Yuill.

Although your user ID looked to be an email address, could you kindly send me an email through this website so that I can forward you the detail of my service?

Please left click on my user ID and select the option 'Send Email' from the drop down menu.
Please note that this option will only show up AFTER you logged into this site.


Sooner or later, all of the Bose amplifiers (AMP) on our NSX will suffer from the similar issues caused by the acid leakage from the electrolytic aluminium capacitors.
It’s the same reason for most of the failures on the A/C Climate Control Circuit board and on the dash instrument cluster.

I have been offering this service for a while now and you can see my previous work through the Blog Category ‘Audio’ at the right side panel of this screen. Link as follows;

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/blog.php?1811&blogcategoryid=44


I'll remind you again once I hear from you but please take the AMP out of the speaker box and just send the AMP and not the entire speaker box in order to save the delivery cost.


Looking forward to hearing from you again.

Regards,
Kaz

Hi Kaz

Am interested in having all 3 amp boards(1 x 050 2206 and 2 x 050 2205) from 1991 NSX repaired as one amp is not working. What is the common weak link, can it be easily repaired and can you do this or can you recommend a reliable repairer in UK (Glasgow Area if Pos.)

Cheers
Yuill

Interesting to hear that the MOT database is showing not to test NSX brake on the roller. It’s not AWD or 4WD system and the OEM ride height is not too low for most of the MOT stations.

At the front, compliance pivot will shift during the brake testing on the roller as the rear end is locked by applying the full brake pressure by the tester but don’t think it will cause any damages to the suspension parts, alignment or leading to a wrong diagnosis.

At the rear, depending on the spec of your LSD (earlier model) and friction of the roller itself, it may trigger small amount of imbalance between R & L while no brake pressure was applied resulting in misdiagnosed calliper seizure.

So far, never felt any issues using the roller for MOT on my NSX….