Blog Comments

I've found NavFree ok for a freebie, used the French and US versions too. They will get you to where you need to go but I have also found that it chooses some strange routes. You have to be very careful too, I have been told to turn up one way streets and other no left\right hand turns through lights which could have turned out pretty messy. I can see how some people have got into trouble with satnav in general if they trust them too much. I used the map feedback tool to report one of these issues but it's never been acknowledged or changed....why did I bother!
I use NavFree on an iPhone4, I can pinch zoom on it ok.

Hi, greenberet.

I only have a few experiences on working on LHD NSX and I know the CL master cyl is sided.
While I think it is using the same/similar parts for the centre pin and locking pin, please check first although the locking pin itself is very cheap and you can always go back to the old method of splice pin.

Regards,
Kaz

Dear Kaz,

That's a great tip regarding the pin. My clutch hydraulics will be replaced shortly and I'll make sure the new style pin goes into the master cylinder assembly.

Hi, Silver Surfer.
It’s nothing special for someone with electronics background.

You just need to cut tiny amount (less than 1 mm) of one track on the CCU board to keep the brightness of the display and then another one at the display module if you want to do the same for the LEDs at the push buttons although latter one may not be required for some of you.

So, if you can take out the CCU by yourself or ask someone to do it for you, cutting the track is a DIY process.


Again, if you are installing DRL, you want to go back to the original state so the modification has to be the minimum.


Before I post the detail, I just need to be careful to see whether there is any local regulations requiring the display to dim or not during the night driving session.


One time when we were designing the dash display on the steering wheel for the open air cockpit racing car, we went to a certain place where it can simulate all sorts of lighting conditions in the nature including the direction of the sunlight, night driving, etc and based on this experience, I’m aware of the pros and the cons of driving with the bright display in the night.

In summary, it is best to have minimum brightness at the dash display located at the line of your sight while driving in the night to maximise the visibility/focus on the road and prevent any disturbances.

The clock, CCU and audio head unit are all at the centre console so personally, I felt comfortable driving with these modifications even in the night but I would like to test more especially going through the roundabout or making turns in the night while my eyes will spend longer time at the side of the car than going straight.


Kaz

Top effort Kaz.
I suspect 95% of owners would like this mod.
Please let us know how we can have the pleasure of this pioneering modification.

Kare

Hi, greenberet.

It can be done using several different methods but I don’t think it’s practical considering the time required for the modification as well as putting everything back to the original state when you want to.

I started looking into this since I use the position light as DRL that I’m planning to install in the future so when it’s done, I must put everything back to how they used to be, so any modifications have to be minimum.

The aftermarket DRL system from major manufactures such as Philips monitors the changes in the battery voltage when the engine has started (ACG starts to generate power) and automatically turns the DRL On. Obviously, you don’t need to touch the lighting switch so the illumination at all three devices (Clock, CCU, Audio HU) stays at their normal brightness.

Although you are no longer going to have the position lights (EU regulation), if you turn the lighting switch into ‘position/small’ or ‘dip beam’ position, the illumination will be dimmed which is probably better when driving in the night although it didn’t bother me even they were at full brightness while testing my modification.

As major manufactures already developed and tested the products and guaranteed to meet the EU regulation, I will just buy it instead of trying to create something from scratch.


Having said this, you could just create a simple circuit to do the same if you don’t want to install aftermarket DRL and switch on the position light without touching the lighting switch.

However, position light circuit is at the downstream of ‘tail light relay’ which is the source of the illumination control lines for the above three devices.

Since they are connected in parallel together with the position light, you must modify the existing wiring and create stand alone circuit for the position light. It’s easy because you just need to cut two wires and separate them from rest of the downstream of the tail light relay but I don’t like cutting the chassis loom…..

Simply powering up the position light without separating its circuit from the rest will dim the illumination on all three devices even if you haven’t touched the lighting switch.

Kaz

Hi, Kare.

When you turn the position light On, the wire at pin#3 becomes live (+!2V).

Therefore, you need to ‘insulate’ it to prevent it from creating the short circuit when it touches any metal part of the chassis at GND level.

Just cover the terminal with heat shrink tube, high temperature spec electrical tape or similar products.


Kaz

'So, pulled out the #3 terminal (I think it was Red/Blk wire) from the connector
behind the clock and insulated it'

Hi Kaz,

Can you explain what you mean by 'insulated' it please?

Kare

Dear Kaz,

Personally, I’d be happy if the clock, CCU and radio lights didn’t go to the dim level when the parking lights are turned on but only when the main beams are turned on. Do you think that would be easier to accomplish? Is there a little “dim” wire in the light switch that could be pinned into the main beams position instead of the parking light position?

Dear Kaz,

Thanks for your insights. In the NSX, the front shock towers are already kind of connected by that “pan” at the base of the windshield. Do you think that “pan” is stable enough that an additional stock tower brace would not impact the torsional rigidity and resonant frequency? I can imagine you wouldn’t want to add a front shock tower brace to your NSX, but do you think it would do anything to the chassis other than add weight?

I was sharing my messy oil experience after reading yours so I intended the comment to be here

In future I'll no doubt have a siphon pump as it is a handy thing to have, I just wanted to get it done so just went for it.

On my next engine oil change I'll probably replace the gasket which I already have but I should probably get a gasket set and change a bunch of the engine gaskets at the same time or maybe get it done with the cambelt service that a garage will do.

Hi, m666 edd.

Not sure whether you were trying to update your Ed’s DIY clutch replacement thread or not but thank you for sharing your experience here.

Yes, MTF stinks. In fact, almost any MTF will stink.

I think Sudesh has good way of pouring the MTF from top without making mess.

I just use siphon pump.



For the oil pan gasket, if you loosen the header/manifold/CAT nuts, you may be able to replace the gasket without completely taking the oil pan out but as you mentioned, you won’t be able to clean the mating surface thoroughly.

In order to do it properly, you must remove the front down pipe.

As the engine oil will continuously drip while the oil pan is off, you need to quickly clean the area and install the oil pan together with the rubber gasket before the mating surface is contaminated with the dripping oil.

I prefer using the liquid gasket not just at the oil pump and left cover section but also all around the mating surface and to assist the installation, it is better to remove the stiffener bracket as well on MT model.

I personally don’t follow the torque spec on the workshop manual.
In my view, 14Nm is way too tight and not only squash the rubber gasket too much but also damages the oil pan resulting in oil seepage within a short period after the service.

In order to tighten lots of these bolts and nuts at the oil pan quickly in three rounds before the liquid gasket starts to set, T-wrench is your friend.


Kaz

I was smelling of gear oil as I filled my gearbox without any pump or long hoses. Managed it with the 3 bottles all horizontal squeezed between the drive shaft and rear structure. The first 2 bottles I ended up spilling some down my left arm and on my chest but managed the final bottle without spilling a drop. It wasn't a huge amount but enough to stink of the stuff!

I need to replace my oil pan gasket but don't want to remove the manifold yet. I'm guessing there might be enough clearance to do it with the manifold in but would be pretty hard to ensure the surfaces were completely clean before replacing the gasket.

Hi, greenberet.

My MX5 is Eunos Roadstar (JDM) and it’s 1993 1.8L 5MT V-Special II so it has different interior and exterior parts compared to the standard models.
I think 1.8L engine was only available in 94 for UK models.

The front tower bar is Mazda OEM one.
It was standard equipment on S Special model but it was also available as an option for other models so I just included it.

Compared to our NSX, MX5 is designed with the affordable open top enjoyment for everyone in mind.
Therefore, with the targeted cost, everything around the interior/exterior including the chassis stiffness are just enough for normal driving conditions.

You can actually see the chassis twisting if you try to lift up just one corner so the chassis stiffness is not great.

The effect of tower bar is OK level.
On MX5, the engine height is fairly high while the damper tower is bit low so the tower bar design has to go up a lot first before connecting to the other end and with just two nuts to hold the bracket to the mounting place, not that ideal.

Still, addition to the changes in resonance frequency, you can actually feel the difference in handling.
If you have ever seen the NSX and MX5 frame repair process, the damper tower mounting point on MX5 is not stiff and nowhere near to the level of NSX so anything that can stiffen that area will help.

I don’t track this MX5 so even the frame twists, that’s fine with me.
I don’t have NSX-T but MX5 is fun to drive although it’s mainly used by my boss......

Kaz

Dear Kaz,

The adjustable front strut tower brace in your MX-5 looks good. Is that an OEM part in certain NA Eunos Roadsters? Have you tried driving with and without it on public roads? If so, did you notice a difference in how the car feels?

My Honda battery failed after just one year! Again mine would appear to charge fully but fail a load test. Replaced under warranty FOC no problems by Honda.

Many Thanx as always, regards Paul

Unlike the brake system, CL fluid doesn’t get so hot.

I think most of the paste like material that you can find at the base of the reservoir is the debris from master/slave cup seals after being scraping against the cyl wall many times.


So, the condition of fluid and master/slave cyl and CL hose depend largely on the driving condition.
Basically, how many times the CL pedal was used.


On my NSX, I just replace the fluid whenever it starts to get darker because for me, it’s an easy task as I can pressure bleed it.


Some owners don’t even bother replacing the fluid until it starts leaking and to be honest, I have never tested whether replacing the fluid will extend the master/slave cyl life or not.

So, I don't have any specific service interval for CL fluid.
It's more important to keep eye on the debris at the base of the reservoir and the fluid level.


If you want and feel comfortable with DIY, for low annual mileage NSX, probably every three years should be enough.


There is no need to use expensive high spec brake fluid here.
Just plain DOT3 or DOT4 is enough.
It’s ‘DOT’ spec so well enough for CL Hyd system on our NSX.


Kaz

Hi, Kaz.
What is your recommendation for frequency of changing the CL fluid. Any fluid preference? As part of my current work I will need to drain the fluid (which is similar to that in your photo) and replace with new.
Thank you, Paul

Originally Posted by greenberet

If the quality of replacement parts is dropping, it’s a more difficult decision whether to carry out a wholesale replacement of parts on the car just because they’re old or whether it’s better to stick to the old adage, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”.

Have you noticed that the quality of the seals is dropping as well? I was planning on replacing lots of seals in my NSX because they’re old, not because they’re leaking.

Hi, greenberet.

Probably, it’s because of my background but on some of the parts, if they are known to fail, I’ll replace (fix) them before it fails (broke).
You can’t win the race by replacing the parts but you could lose by not doing so.

The build quality of some of the NSX parts or the ones for any cars no longer being in production is getting serious concern.

I always check the ones that I heard previous problem immediately after the delivery but still, some of them won’t be noticed until at the time of installation or even worse, until after the whole package containing the defect parts mounted on the car.

Not sure what kind of seals you are referring to but so far, I’m not aware of any engine/trans/brake seals quality issue.

Kaz