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Thread: NSX Health Check Service

  1. #291
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1 View Post
    Hi, NSXGB. Good idea to make your own brake pipes. Not that expensive to buy them from Japan as long as you are happy to bend some of them gently to minimise the size of the package.

    Just a reminder.
    None of the eight brake pipes from US for ABS conversion would be comaptible with our RHD NSX.

    Regards,
    Kaz
    Looking at the spaghetti in your detailed pictures, I think I've changed my mind! Especially if they are not too dear in Japan.

    Tim Poliniak (Formerly Ray Laks), I'm sure would do a group buy on this.

  2. #292
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    Default Fuel Filter

    Time to replace the Fuel Filter again. I can't remember how many fuel filters that I replaced on NSX in the past.
    Nothing special and just a regular quick service. Just follow the procedure in the manual.

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    The old filter and the OEM replacement with the sealing washers.
    I have another new fuel filter that was handed from forumadmin before he moved to Switzerland so if you need to replace it, please let me know.
    I'm quite sure he will be happy to negotiate the price.

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    Just use impact wrench to remove the two bolts.
    New filter installed and torque checked.
    Double check for any leakage by just turning the IGN Key several times to 'ON' position without starting the engine.

    Kaz

  3. #293
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    Hi, all.
    Recently, I installed the header designed by KSP Engineering Japan and I hope following info will assist some of the owners here on NSXCB.

    Please note that these are purely based on my long term study and experience. I have no commercial relationship with any of the aftermarket parts companies and thus, these are just my personal view and I have no intension to say negative comments on your products that you may have on your NSX. I will appreciate your understanding on this and I just hope that you won't misunderstand my view or feel offended by my comments.

    Also, the data presented here is based on JDM spec ECU which has different setup than non-JDM NSX so please keep this in mind.

    A. Background
    Until recently, I couldn’t decide what to do with my dreadful NA1 OEM header, or I should use the word ‘manifold’ instead, as on our NA1, it’s not a header but just a cast iron manifold.

    There are lots of manufactures showing the dyno result of their products on the website.
    Almost any aftermarket headers will produce more power/torque than the OEM NA1 manifold and thus, the peak absolute power figure on aftermarket headers is not important for me.

    The position of the engine exhaust ports and the location of mating surface at each CATs are the same for any designer of headers for NA1 NSX so the input/output geometry is fixed.

    The available space for the layout of headers surrounded by other parts is also the same for everyone and thus, the main difference would be the material, know-how, the length of primary/collector tubes and the diameter.


    Our engine is NA and the rev limit is only around 8,000rpm and once again, the absolute peak power using aftermarket header is not important for me. You will get similar layout using the CAD simulation to design the header and the power curve will shift depending on the length and the diameter.

    You can get lots of feedback from the owners on the specific headers through other car forum as well.

    After installing the headers for many owners, looking at the actual products installed on the NSXs, listening to the feedback from other owners with many years of experience with the specific headers and even testing some of the products on the dyno, I came to a conclusion that for me, the following points would be the most important criteria for the selection of headers.

    1. Ease of serviceability after the installation
    With some of the headers, it is so difficult to work on the Gbox, clutch and engine after the header installation. Especially, when tilting the engine, part of the headers will hit other part of the chassis. Also, with some of the headers, you won’t be able to remove some of the bolts from the chassis without taking off the headers.
    As I work on my NSX regularly, I need a header with these points addressed.

    2. Ease of installation
    If you installed several headers in the past, you will know what I mean… Some of them required trimming of other parts to get enough clearance, others couldn’t let you use torque wrench to tighten the fixing nuts and so on.
    Some of them required extra hours to fit on AT models.
    Once the rear O2 sensor was installed, there was no way accessing some of the bolts/nuts without removing the O2 sensor again…
    Some of them even had their own heatshield attached to the headers but melted the timing belt cover as well.

    Some of them showed no consideration on the routing of O2 sensor wire especially for the extended Front bank one.

    3. Balance between the design, material, performance
    Most of the aftermarket headers will use SUS304 for the tube and collector. For the flange, it will be SS41, SUS430 and so on.
    SUS304 has quite big expansion rate so it is important to take this into the consideration for the design and layout.
    Especially, this is important on the Rear bank because the drivetrain will generate rotational (twist) force between the header and CAT while the vibration on the two (header and CAT/exhaust) of which have different weight will create different inertia resulting in bending force at different phase/frequency.


    From the durability point of view, it is best to use single tube structure than welding multiple short tubes.
    However, this means that you need a certain length and bent radius to use single tube design without disturbing the exhaust flow at the Rear bank.

    Front is easy.


    Therefore, if you look at the design/structure/material of Rear header, you will know how much effort were put into the R&D of its header.


    On some of the headers, the owners reported that they cracked after several years especially at the rear bank. Most of them had the structure of multiple short tubes welded together.


    This is not a big issue as you can weld it but you need to remove the header and time is precious for me.


    I don’t want to loose low-mid torque so for the header/exhaust performance, you just need the minimum diameter to achieve the free flow of exhaust gas with reasonable length of primary tube.

    The internal wall of tubes where they meet at the flange as well as the collector must be polished to maximise the free flow.


    I have used Inconel and Titanium on different projects but they were very pricey and not sure about the durability of the welded section. Also, may be it was just my ears but they sounded different compared to the headers made from SUS304 and for me, I preferred the tone/note of 304 than these expensive materials.


    The area I live has lots of speed hump and thus, the three primary tubes passing across the oil pan at the Front bank must sit parallel to the ground to maximise the road clearance. Some of the headers showed one tube sitting lower than the other two… Not good for my application.

    Addition to these, there were lots of other testings carried out.

    For example, on standard NA1 engine, removing the CAT won’t improve the output power. It was measured on several different NA1 NSX back to back on the same day. Without the CAT, the throttle response showed big difference but not on the power curve. Only the peak power showed 2 – 3PS higher/lower figure depending on the NSX measured and different measurement timing. As the results were higher as well as lower, it was not consistent and too small to distinguish from measurement deviation.

    Similar thing was found on the air box and air filter combination.

    Several different aftermarket headers and exhausts were installed on the JDM NA1 NSX with standard engine and the power curve was compared between OEM NA1 airbox/airfilter against aftermarket airbox and airfilters.
    Again, no big difference was monitored on the power curve apart from the intake sound/noise. Some of them even lost the low-mid range power against the OEM ones.

    Further studies were carried out and there were noticeable increase in power for the modified (high lift profile Vtec camshaft etc) NA1 NA2 engine by using the aftermarket airbox/airfilter.
    But, unless the engine modification reaches the certain level, there is no benefit for NA1 NA2 power by replacing the OEM airbox and filter.


    Based on these, I decided to keep my OEM CATs and airbox/airfilter as my engine is standard NA1 with no modification. I haven’t decided what to do with the exhaust (silencer) yet but I’ll spend some time again as I know the OEM one is partially restricting the free flow and it is important to consider the entire intake/engine/header/exhaust as a package.


    After many years of searching, finally, I decided to go for the headers from KSP Engineering.

    Although I was allowed to use the dyno data and photos from KSP engineering, I don’t have access to the CAD/CATIA data so I measured the primary tube using the tape measure.
    As you can easily imagine, this is not accurate enough as the headers are hand bent with complex curve and due to the diameter of the tube, the bent portion of the tube length would be different depending on where/how you measure that section unless you can measure the virtual centre line inside the tube.


    This is why we normally use CAD/CATIA data for the ‘length’ of primary tube.

    The measurement I got for the Front primary tube was about 710mm and for the Rear, it was about 715mm.

    At the Front, the length of the collector was about 130mm followed by about 105mm for the O2 sensor mounting tube with ball socket joint before connecting to the CAT.

    At the Rear, the length of the collector was about 135mm followed by about total of 160mm for the O2 sensor mounting tube with ball socket joint plus another very short tube with another ball joint before connecting to the CAT.

    For IP reason, I can’t tell the detail but the OEM NA1 header was on purposely designed in that dreadful shape and material resulting in huge obstruction for the exhaust flow especially at the rear bank.

    Also, if you cut them, you will see they are twin tube structure so the actual diameter of the tube is even smaller than what you can see from outside.
    Last edited by Kaz-kzukNA1; 05-06-2010 at 08:19 AM. Reason: cut and paste mistake

  4. #294
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    B. KSP Engineering Header
    KSP spent many years designing their headers using many different spec of NSXs for checking the fitment as well as serviceability for clutch/gbox/timing belt services and at the same time, optimising the power and torque with/without the OEM CAT and Exhaust. They already sold more than 80 of them and none of them had any issues or crack so far.

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    Thank you to Mr Toyoizumi of KSP Enginnering for allowing me to use their photo and data.
    The test car was equipped with OEM CATs and OEM Exhaust. The power figure before installing the headers was nearly 280PS/30.0kgm which was the same as the standard JDM NA1 normal MT spec.

    The power curve after the installation with OEM CAT and OEM Exhaust on JDM NA1 MT model.
    Many rolling road runs were carried out on the same day and this was the average one.
    The light blue is the torque [kgm], red is the road measuerd power, blue is the mechanical loss and the green is the calculated overall power curve.

    The JDM standard MT model will produce 280PS/30.0kgm when out of the factory so 299PS/31.0kgm just by replacing the header with OEM CATs and OEM Exhaust is quite good one but again, for me, the absolute peak power figure is not that important.


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    The Front and the Rear bank.

  5. #295
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    The extra parts included in the products.
    The two NA2 spec exh mani gaskets, one O2 sensor ext cable, two gaskets for OEM CAT, one metal bracket for mounting Rear O2 sensor loom.

    You can re-use the NA1 exh mani gasket but if you overlay the NA2 one on top of the NA1 one, it is slightly bigger and as it was included in the kit, I just simply replaced it.


    Addition to these, I prepared the followings;
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    Two replacement OEM spec direct fit O2 sensors (NTK), heat reflecting tape for the A/C compressor, short length heatshield cloth, just a normal flange nut for CATs, NA2 spec OEM nut for exhaust port.

  6. 02-06-2010, 09:26 PM


  7. #296
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    C. Comparison with the OEM NA1 manifold
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    The Front and

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    the Rear bank.

    On OEM NA1, both Front and Rear bank are not header but just cast iron manifolds.
    The worst bit is the Rear Bank.
    The exhaust gas is bent 90deg straight after the exh port and then bent again sharply towards the single tube. It will reduce the engine power and I heard it was done on purposely....

  8. #297
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    D. The installation
    There are lots of nice write up and FAQ on Prime so I won’t go into too much detail.

    Also, the installation procedure can be customised depending on the design of each headers. As I’m going to keep the OEM CATs and Exhaust, they are left without being removed during this installation method. If you are going to remove/replace them at the same time, you have more room and thus, no need to follow some of the info here.

    As I’m not going to remove any of the OEM CATs or the OEM exhaust, I decided to start from the Front bank removal.

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    Remove Rear Beam Rod Assy (the U shaped reinforcement bar).

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    Remove the Front Beam. In order to access the Front engine mount bolt and to get extra room, I removed both shift cables. This will allow the use of torque wrench without flex swivel joint during the installation process later.

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    Remove three nuts at the down pipe and another three nuts at the CAT. You may find most of the nuts already rusted and almost rounded. Having the nut extractor tool will significantly help the removal process. The Front down pipe will come out now.

    Remove the nuts at the heatshield.

    Disconnect the Front O2 sensor connector at the front right side of the engine.

  9. #298
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    Using the O2 sensor tool, remove the Front O2 sensor.

    Please do not use any penetrating oil such as WD40 at the sensor base if you are going to re-use the sensor.

    As I was not going to re-use this sensor, I didn’t have to remove it here but just gave it a go and it came off with ease.
    If you can’t remove it, just leave it and deal with it later after taking out the manifold. You can use gas burner to apply lots of heat and it will come off with ease.


    Remove the heatshield.

    Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch connector at the front of oil level dip stick.

    Remove four long bolts holding the A/C compressor to the bracket and hold it somewhere out of the way.

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    Take out the Front manifold by removing the seven fixing nuts.

  10. 02-06-2010, 10:45 PM


  11. 03-06-2010, 07:06 AM


  12. #299
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    Now the Rear bank.

    Drop the sway bar/anti roll bar out of the way by removing the two bolts at the bush holder at each side.

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    Remove the Rod-B (the boomerang shape bar).

    Disconnect the Rear O2 sensor connector at the rear right side of the engine.

    Remove the small bracket attached to the upper rear engine head/cover holding the Rear O2 sensor cable. This will allow tiny but important extra space to use torque wrench for tightening of fixing nuts at the header flange during the installation process.

    Remove three nuts from the down pipe and another three nuts at the CAT. Again, most of the nuts will be rusty and almost rounded especially at the Rear bank. The U shaped down pipe?? will come out now.

    Try to remove the Rear O2 sensor but from the past experience, it would be always really tight and almost impossible to remove it without the help of heat.
    If you are re-using the sensor, it is best not to apply too much shock/impact.
    If it doesn’t move, then don’t force it as you may round the sensor’s bolt head.
    Due to the position of this sensor, it will get more moisture and heat compared to the Front side and thus, it tends to seize more.
    Addition to this, the O2 sensor thread inside the rear manifold is somewhat at the curved section and not flat like the front side and this will make the things even worse. When removing the rear O2 sensor, either the thread on the sensor or the manifold side require some level of re-threading after many years of usage.

    I couldn’t remove the one on the Rear manifold so just left it. You can take out the manifold with the O2 sensor still on it. Later, I managed to remove it by applying lots of heat and it came off with ease.

    Remove the two pieces heatshields. You can wiggle it out even with the O2 sensor still on the manifold.

    Take out the Rear manifold by removing the seven fixing nuts.

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    Majority of the bits came off from my NSX. Quite heavy …

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    By the way, the OEM O2 sensors are from Denso. The photo shows the Front on the left and Rear on the right.

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    For the replacement, I selected the one from NTK as I used it for many years for race project and very reliable with very good durability.
    I got these through sparkplugs.com in US and they sometimes post the discount code in the vendor section of NSX Prime.
    However, when I spoke with Andy at our NSXCB vendor vtecdirect during the Japfest this year, he seems to be able to source the Denso one at quite good price so worth contacting him, if you need the replacement O2 sensor.

  13. #300
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    Now the new KSP headers.

    First, study the design of your header and decide the best procedure on how to install all items considering the reduced accessibility due to the extra tubes with the aftermarket headers.
    Especially, you may struggle with the Rear bank if you are keeping the OEM CAT and Exhaust in place when putting back the Rod-B.

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    KSP header uses very clever method on mounting the O2 sensor on a separated short tube. This is a big advantage for the ease of installation. Especially, at the rear bank, it is using double ball socket joints allowing the rotational movement of this short pipe with the O2 sensor installed. You won’t understand the beauty of this method unless you actually installed it by yourself.

    The installation would be much easier than removing the old OEM manifold and pipes. Especially, you don’t need to deal with the rusty/rounded bolts and nuts.

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    For the fixing nut at the engine head exhaust port, I prefer using the NA2 style heat treated nut. NA1 on the left and NA2 on the right.

    I started the installation with the Rear bank. Again, the beauty of double ball socket joints speeded up the whole process.

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    Another cleaver method is the usage of small metal bracket included in the kit. It is for holding the Rear O2 sensor cable. You can copy the same method if your O2 sensor is located at the similar position.

    Put Rod-B back on the car and finger tighten the bolts at the sway/anti roll bar bush.
    Last edited by Kaz-kzukNA1; 03-06-2010 at 01:37 PM. Reason: wrong photo used for the Front Ball Socket Joint

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