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Thread: NSX Health Check Service

  1. #511
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    After bench bleeding the master cyl by tilting the cyl at specific angle, it is installed on the car. Pressure bleed the system, left it overnight for the leak check then test driving session followed by another pressure bleed and leak check.


    ABS flushing.


    While driving this NSX at low speed with window opened, I noticed that the ABS pump was operating almost like every 10sec so I knew the solenoids are leaking or the accumulator bladder is not holding the right pressure.

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    Using ABS SST to release the high pressure fluid from the accumulator.

    Flushed the system twice before moving onto the solenoids flush.

    All four solenoids were not sticky and operated fine which is a good news.


    Flushed the system again twice and waiting for the test driving session.

    However, looking at the amount of high pressure fluid returned to the SST, as predicted, looks like we may have accumulator issue. As discussed, considering the usage of this NSX and condition of other ABS parts, it would be more cost effective to invest in the ABS upgrade than trying to replace the parts on this original system.


    This will leave us with replacing the Engine Oil & Filter, Main relay and refurbishing Bose speaker AMPs, test driving session and another bleeding with leak check so hope to return this NSX very soon.

    Kaz

  2. #512
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    Replacing the Engine Oil & Filter.

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    This NSX is mainly being used on busy road for short distance so I knew the amount of blowby gas would be significant.
    Fortunately or unfortunately, the filler cap was not cleaned thoroughly and you can see the white residue behind the filler cap.
    This is the moisture from the blowby gas.

    Another reason to replace the engine oil regularly even for short annual mileage NSX.

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    Removing the Eng Oil Filter.
    To prevent eng oil from touching the suspension area and stiffener frame, I normally use plastic bag around the filter before removing it. Saves the time cleaning the area.

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    New OEM filter and probably bit too cautious but to keep the same procedure, I always fill it up with the new oil before installing it.

    New filter installed. Don’t put too much torque as you will struggle to remove it next time.
    You don’t need big torque once the gasket has seated properly.

  3. #513
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    While waiting for the old engine oil to drain out from the oil pan as much as possible, decided to replace the Main Relay.

    Normally, it is easy to remove the horizontal upper interior panel behind the seat as you only need to push down on it and remove the three fixings.

    However, on this NSX, it turned into another challenge session due to someone decided to glue down the panel to the firewall. After some investigation, it became clear that the only way to remove the panel is to apply enough force to break the glue even if it may take out the brackets or even damage the panel.
    So, phoned the owner, explained the situation and got authorisation for taking the risk.

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    Finally, the panel came off. The strange looking glue at the firewall. It was not even using the correct fixings/clips to glue the panel.
    Need to re-plant the brackets back on the panel and use the proper clips for the instalaltion.

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    The original main relay.
    Although it didn’t show any issues, it was from week 33 & 35 of 1990.
    New one is from week 18 & 20 of 2010.


  4. #514
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    As in my old post, the original relay was using the old design with the spring whereas the new one is using the mechanical plate.
    New one installed.

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    Back to the engine oil.
    Managed to extract further 300 – 400cc from the top.
    New eng oil into the engine, fire up for leak check and adjusted the level later.


    All four wheels are back on the car now and tyre pressure to be adjusted before carrying out the test driving session. Need to work on the speaker AMPs now.

    More to follow.

    Kaz

  5. #515
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    Test driven the car for the first time after the mechanical services and bled the brake system once again and leaving the car on the lift overnight for final leak check.

    Unfortunately, as suspected, the high frequency brake pedal kick back is still there but better than before the service. We need to work on the Left side drive shaft and rear left wheel speed sensor next time together with ABS upgrade.

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    Re-soldered the original Main relay, applied conformal coating and it will be returned to the owner to be used as an emergency spare.

    Fortunately, I had the spare clips for the rear upper trim behind the seat and the brackets were repaired overnight so installed it back on the car.

  6. #516
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    The owner mentioned that the TCS On/Off switch no longer shows the green light at the housing.

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    So, removed several panels to check the switch and it was clear that someone tried to do something in the past. There was a tape covering the switch housing.

    The cause of the issue was someone pulling the connector plug without removing it first.
    The receptacle connector on the circuit board was simply pulled away and there was not enough contact to the plug terminals.

    This issue is quite common on other switches such as front/rear fog, headlight adjuster, etc located at the centre console.
    When working on the centre console without disconnecting the connectors from these switches, you can easily pull the receptacle from the circuit board if you are not careful. Unfortunately, quite often, the switches will operate for a while until the vibration make enough gap at the terminals.


    Pushed back the receptacle to where it should be, reassembled everything and now the green light at the switch is back and dash display now shows the ‘TCS OFF’ indicator properly.
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  7. #517
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    While removing the driver side door panel to access the Bose speaker AMP, I found the familiar sight of black glue at one of the door trim. Someone really loves this glue….
    Also, there was a sign of glue at the panel behind the door handle as it was cracked.

    One of the screw was not even tightened properly. Can’t remember whether the brass colour screw to be used here or at the forward side so need to check the parts list.

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    Looks like someone struggled to put back the clear sheet behind the door panel.

  8. #518
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    When the speaker box was opened, there was no AMP inside. No wonder why there was no sound from the right door.

    Instead, someone tried to input the pre-amp signal from the headunit into the speaker but it won’t work like that….


    So, installed the refurbished AMP that I provided the owner last year and now the audio is back at the right door.

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    When I re-assembled everything at the RH door, I checked every switches and I noticed that the ‘Lock’ switch didn’t work.

    Not sure whether it was working or not before I removed the door trim as it is possible that I may have damaged it when I disconnected the connector.

    However, this is another common failure on our NSX when we deal with this specific connector. For some reason, Honda decided to use non water proof connector on this switch and because of this, the terminals just get corroded and break when we disconnect/connect it.

    As expected, the middle terminal was showing green colour corrosion and internal part was broken.
    Replaced the terminal with gold plated one, applied silicone grease and now it recovered the functionality.

    Of course, I'm not going to charge for this repair.


    So, just need to work on the left door and footwell speaker AMPs, wash the car, re-torque the wheel nuts, create the Photo CD and the service log book then return the NSX to the owner.

    Next owner is already waiting to deliver his NSX to my place. It will be another TB/WP/Valve clearance and cooling system services while I must prepare myself for several meetings....


    Kaz

  9. #519
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    Left side door speaker AMP.

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    Once again, glue was used at the front sash to hold the triangle cover in place. These parts can be replaced at reasonable cost so not a big problem.

    Someone decided to replace the entire plastic sheet behind the door trim with clear one.

    The leakage from the capacitor was quite severe and corroded the AMP metal cover acting as the heatsink.
    It was
    replaced with the refurbished one that I provided the owner last year.


    The passenger footwell speaker AMP was also replaced.
    The + terminal at the footwell speaker was not connected so no wonder why there was no sound from there.


    Now we have beautiful sound from all four speakers.

    Personally, when all speakers and AMPs are operating properly, it is good enough as an sport car audio system for me.


    Now that we have the audio sound from the speakers, I noticed that once the audio head unit warms up, there is a sand paper like scratching noise even when the volume was turned all the way to zero.

    This is exactly the same issue that I saw on the last NSX that I serviced and it looked to be capacitor leakage issue inside the unit.

    Next time when this NSX is going to be serviced again, I’ll look into the head unit.


    It was pleasure and good experience working on this NSX.

    The owner wants to put this NSX back to how it should be and I hope all of the effort that I contributed this time will meet his expectation.

    Looking forward to working on this NSX again for the ABS upgrade, LH drive shaft, audio head unit, etc in the near future.


    I just hope the next owner will bring his NSX before it starts snowing this week….

    Regards,
    Kaz

  10. #520
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    Had problem accessing the site last night so couldn't post this at that time.
    Looks fine now....

    Time to look after another NSX.
    The service menu is carrying out the TB/WP/Valve Clearance with all four camshaft removed, Right side Driveshaft overhaul and Coolant system refresh.

    As the owner had good method on getting the parts from US, I gave him the required parts list and most of the parts were sourced by the owner. There were four coolant hoses that were not available on LHD Acura model so these were ordered from Japan.


    It saves some time and provides extra room while servicing the right driveshaft/TB when working on the coolant hoses at the Eng Oil cooler. There are only two coolant hoses there but for me, they are the most time consuming ones.


    So, started with general inspection around the engine while removing the parts for the driveshaft and preparation for the compression check.

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    Quite common on our NSX, oil was leaking from the camshaft cap seal. When looked from different angle, there seemed to be no oil leakage from the VTEC spool valve seal on both banks so they are not going to be replaced this time. They can be replaced together with the filter at any time without removing other parts.
    Looks like I'm going to spend long hours cleaning the engine again... Another reason why I prefer taking the engine out even just for the TB service...

    Based on the service history, the TB was replaced in the past but not the WP. The service schedule only states as ‘check WP at the time of replacing TB’ so quite often, the WP was not replaced during TB service on UK based NSX.
    This NSX is still at low mileage for its age and it was still using the original WP. Because of this, the TB Lower cover was also still the original design with seeping hole without the pipe sticking out. These will be replaced to the latest design ones this time.

    Initial check on the crank pulley bolt. The owner bought new one so it will be replaced anyway. The bolt was not greased properly during the last TB service so it required extra torque to loosen it but not too bad. There is no point in start removing parts for TB service if I can’t remove this bolt. If it’s too tight, just take your NSX to your local garage dealing with HGV. They normally have huge impact wrench with sub-tank attached to it. They can loosen it for you.
    Greased it properly and torqued it back to the spec for warming up the engine for the compression check.

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    36mm spindle nut at the right side driveshaft.
    Seems like someone worked in this area in the past as there was a sign that the spindle nut was re-used.
    Each driveshaft service kit includes new spindle nut so it will be replaced with the new one.

    I have lots of spare spindle nuts any way. If you need one, you can have it for free if you can collect it from my place.

    By the way, as same as the crank pulley bolt, if you have problem removing this nut, take it to HGV garage and ask them to loosen it for you with their sub-tank assisted huge impact wrench.


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