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Thread: ABS Upgrade Support

  1. #21
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    There are lots of same relay used on our NSX.

    As you have already upgraded the ABS and if you know the electronics system of it, you could use some of the same relays no longer in use.

    In order to prevent any corrosion to the terminals at the relay socket, it is always best to keep something inserted there so it can be only a temporary solution.

    As you already placed the order, it is the best thing to do.

    Good luck with the test driving session and please remember to clear the error code first before you start driving.

    Kaz

  2. Default

    Hi Kaz,

    I just installed a new ALB pump relay and checked there is battery voltage with the ignition switched on. At first the ABS light keep turn on for a mile and it turned off automatically. Also tested the ABS and there is kick on the brake padel when brake hard, no tires locking too!!! Thanks again, problem solved now. Owe you a dinner!

    Keno

  3. #23
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    Good to hear that you are now driving with the upgraded ABS.

    As mentioned in my previous post, for some of the failure mode such as your #51 error code, the ABS warning light will stay ON when you start the engine but once you fulfil the certain conditions AND if the system is back to normal at that point, it will turn the ABS warning light OFF while you are driving and even before you turn the engine off.

    Please make sure to reset the error code even you no longer see the ABS warning light.

    The error code #51 is still stored in the ABS memory bank and it will confuse your diagnosis for the future issue that you may experience.

    For example, upgraded ABS brain is much more sensitive to the signal quality of the wheel speed sensor and it can trigger the error while original ABS brain couldn’t even detect it.



    Enjoy driving with the upgraded ABS.



    For me, it was a great investment because there is a known big issue with the original ABS.


    With the original system, there is a possibility of loosing ABS while braking resulting in hitting the object while with the upgraded one, I have better chance of stopping well before hitting it.

    Kaz

  4. Default

    Hi Kaz,

    Thanks for all your advise, really helpful!! I will clear the DTC this coming week, thanks!! I didn't have a working ABS since i bought it 8 years ago. I have tried to get it fix quite a few times and i relied on the garage, in the process replaced a few components and it never really work. The ALB light always coming back on. In the last attempt to fix the old style ABS, we found out the ALB pump would not be self switch on when it lose all its pressure inside. My garage suggested to replace the ALB computer to try it. At the time i questioned about the relay but he said it doesn't seem to be fail!!!

    So when my friend went order a complete conversion package for the late version ABS, i said order a set for me too as i wanted to solve this ABS problem but it turn out to be a stupid relay that caused the problem for sooooo many years!!

    I do know that the late version ABS work much much better than the old style, it really worth the money to upgrade it!! Also it it requires alot less maintenance and saved some weight. I do alot maintenance on my other car, just not the NSX but i shall be doing it more on the NSX in future.....Thanks again!!
    Keno
    Last edited by EK4 hatchback; 01-08-2011 at 09:00 AM.

  5. #25
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    A quick post to thank Kaz for this thread, his blog and personal help via email, which was invaluable while upgrading my ABS system which is now in and working.

    My own contribution to the process;

    If you are using the SOS upgrade kit, hopefully some additional helpful info:

    1. You will need to either cut off the power plug from your old ABS unit to then crimp to the SOS loom or buy a complete new male & female plug. If you buy one, it has to be rated at 20a or higher and weatherproof. I bought a pack of two if anyone wants to buy one.

    2. You will have to re-use the main cast ali bracket (the one with Nissin written on it) to mount the new modulator to. Also you re-use the spare wheel guard.

    3. There is a drip tube from the Cruise Control actuator that now exits right over the sexy new ABS modulator. I've never noticed anything ever come out of there but I think I'll extend and divert this tube elsewhere.

    4. The SOS upgrade loom IMHO could be improved upon. It could do with being another 6" or so longer to allow neater routing and the multi plugs that need to be pushed through the bulkhead grommet are a little flimsy, care needs to be taken here not to bend or damage the connectors.

    5. The hardest part for me was routing the new brake lines to their new positions. I would advise using some masking tape on the bulkhead 'shelf' area to guarantee you don't scratch your paintwork when routing your pipes and fitting their brackets on.

    HTH.

  6. #26

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    hi

    re the brackets for the new modulator ... did u not buy the brackets as listed on kaz's parts list?

    i have and was just curious?

    in terms of braking, what do u think of the system compared to old?

    had u any issues regarding sensors etc?
    "The value of life can be measured by how many times you soul has been deeply stirred" - Soichiro Honda

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by nobby View Post
    hi

    re the brackets for the new modulator ... did u not buy the brackets as listed on kaz's parts list?

    i have and was just curious?

    in terms of braking, what do u think of the system compared to old?

    had u any issues regarding sensors etc?
    I purchased the whole kit from SOS. The old bracket is useable but there is obviously a difference as there is a different part number for the later one. Maybe it's to do with the spare wheel guard?
    EDIT: Kaz's list does mention that the bracket can be re-used.


    I have only been able to test the new system briefly but luckily it was wet and the most noticeable thing is the greater frequency of kickback on the pedal \ much faster response.

    No issues with sensors.
    Last edited by NSXGB; 09-11-2011 at 06:13 PM.

  8. #28

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    Hello kaz, if you could help with three questions i would be very grateful:

    1 - If i wanted to go by the book and also upgrade master cylinder and booster to 02+ R spec can you help me find the correct part # for these two parts? (I tried to find on the internet but couldn't find part number for the 02+ NSX-R)

    2 - Since my NSX is LHD, i guess specific brake pipe U & V will also have to be custom made...(I guess RHD part wouldn't work????) something like this but for LHD:



    3 - Remaining parts would be the same as for the usual 00+ abs upgrade?

    Thanks for your help

    P.S. - Has anyone here upgraded to 02 NSX-R ABS and also upgraded to the 02+ R Master Cyl + booster?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1 View Post
    Original comment for 'Testing the Latest ABS' at Blog section 'Today at Atelier Kaz - NSX Enthusiast'

    ....You can use 02-R modulator with the standard brake booster and master cyl but strictly speaking, you should be using the 02-R spec booster (which automatically requires 02-R master cyl, which will then automatically require specific brake pipe U & V) as the 02-R ABS tuning is designed based on the sharper assist increase by this specific booster....
    Last edited by bbvnsx; 08-01-2016 at 12:59 AM.

  9. #29
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    Hi, bbvnsx.

    1.
    46100-SL0-N12: NSX-R master cyl
    46400-SL0-N11: NSX-R booster

    2. All 8 brake pipes are different between LHD and RHD.
    NSX-R (obviously, only RHD) uses two specific ones (pipe U & V, both ends with –N10) at the NSX-R specific master cyl.
    The shiny silver cyl shape 'hat' of the ABS modulator faces towards the front on the RHD whereas on the LHD, it will points towards the rear.
    Therefore, you may be able to modify the shape of at least one of the two OEM RHD NSX-R master cyl pipe and use it on the LHD car but I think you have big time for the other one.
    Pipe U & V are very cheap so either buy them, modify the shape, cut to length, re-fit the fitting and flare the pipe end or just make your own complete new lines.

    3. Obviously, the ABS modulator is different on the NSX-R.
    It’s 57110-SL0-N21.
    From outside, it looks exactly the same as the standard one (-Z03) but the target slip rate and other settings are completely different.


    For your reference, on the standard NSX, the master cyl and the booster unit are the same between the RHD and LHD.
    Therefore, in theory (never tried it on LHD models), you should be able to install both the NSX-R specific master cyl and booster on your LHD model.

    By the way, if you own DBW model and installed NSX-R like rad air duct where normally the spare wheel sits, be careful with the DBW TH pedal angle cable.
    On RHD standard model, quite often, I saw this DBW cable being scraped by the edge of the duct. Not sure how it will sit on the LHD DBW model.
    On NSX-R, the routing of this cable is different for this reason.

    Please note that while the piston diameter looked to be the same at the master cyl between standard model and NSX-R, the stopper pin, piston are different so in the event of master cyl failure, you will require NSX-R specific master cyl overhaul kit or replace with the new NSX-R one again. Should last for many years but not forever so something to be considered as you can't go back to the normal master cyl while using the NSX-R specific booster. They must be treated as a set.


    I wrote this somewhere on this Forum but in my personal view, I don’t see much benefits in installing these NSX-R specific ABS parts considering the extra costs unless you use the same tyre, brake, chassis balance and setup as NSX-R plus high average speed range (like frequent track days) with very sensitive right (or left, under certain conditions) foot that you operates the brake pedal.

    When compared the standard and NSX-R ABS setup on the same closed street and certain test track sessions over few days, most of the drivers couldn’t tell the difference when they were at their braking performance limit. I couldn't.
    Only the professional drivers (I'm talking about the specific license holders) managed to provide the feedback and with the NSX-R setup, it felt as if the system was allowing more room for the driver to control under limit before the system kicks in completely.
    Therefore, unless you are at the same level, not much benefit.

    Also, 99% of the time on street, you will be activating the ABS under panic condition, not on purposely or under low/mid speed range.
    Under these conditions, you may have better chance of saving yourself if the ABS kicked in at earlier stage or there is no benefit of having sharper brake pressure slope as you are required to control within the small window compared to the standard setting.
    Just my thoughts and it’s your NSX of course.

    Kaz

  10. #30

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    Thanks a lot for your repply Kaz!

    well... i already bought the NSX-R modulator... I also have all the parts for the LHD ABS upgrade (including U and V pipes for the normal booster)... and the KSP Harness adapted by you for the LHD NSX (got it from UnHuz)

    My NSX is on KW-V3 suspension and toyo R888 R compound tires... and i installed the NSX-R sway + chassis bar not long ago... this made me decide to go with the NSX-R modulator... but i guess I'm a bit far from OEM to worry to much about going by the book... My greatest fear would be the NSX-R modulator not performing properly without the NSX-R booster and master cyl...

    I'm on my original NA1 brakes for now... but i intend to upgrade to NA2 rotors and rear caliper + front caliper bracket to end with the same setup as NA2 NSX-R... or just go with BBK...

    My NSX is a 93 MT model with JDM gears + 2nd airbag + EPS from factory but is not DBW, nevertheless thanks for the information it can be useful for other members!

    Best Regards

    Bruno
    Last edited by bbvnsx; 09-01-2016 at 12:17 AM.

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