iv just used normal tap water to top up mine
welsh water is good for everything lol
thx amo
iv just used normal tap water to top up mine
welsh water is good for everything lol
thx amo
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Hi, Ian.
If you are going to use Honda Type 2 coolant, then it is already pre-mixed (50/50) so you don’t want to add any water.
As I live in hard water area, I use filtered rain water to flush the system at least 4 times even when replacing all of the collant hoses (more than 20 of them...).
Having said this, unless you are replacing the coolant hoses, you won’t be able to drain the system completely empty. You’ll end up with about 20-25% of the fluid left in the system even after following the drain procedure on the manual. Because of the shape of the hoses as well as the pipes, you won’t be able to drain the fluid in the long pipe for the Eng Oil Cooler, the pipes/hoses at the centre bottom floor, inside the heater core and the pipes/hoses at the radiator.
The coolant system will hold about 16.0L to 16.5L including the amount inside the header tank depending on your model. If you don’t replace the hoses, you’ll need about 12.0L.
Honda Type 2 coolant, 5L container: 08CLA-G01-8L0
GBP14.61+VAT
Although it says 5L, it actually contains about 5.4L.
Regards,
Kaz
Thanks for that Kaz, last question (maybe), is there a drain tap or do you just disconnect to bottom hose of the radiator?
Would having the car on an angle help drain some of the remaining coolant?
Thanks Ian
Let me answer you. There are two white plastic screws on the radiator, one upper, one lower. They look like a small butterfly. Replace the o-rings BTW. The upper one drains the air while refilling. Don't close it before coolant is coming out while refilling.
Do not touch the hoses unless you replace them.
Angle: It's normally good to have the nose of the car a little bit down but not by much.
Looks as if you do it yourself for the first time. Check the manual for the procedure. You don't want air pockets within. To get a guess I'd measure the amount of coolant you've put in.
Last edited by goldnsx; 21-11-2009 at 11:25 AM.
Hi, Ian.
As goldnsx pointed out, looks like you or your mechanic never carried out the procedure on NSX.
First, please read the manual for the coolant service. You can check it through NSXPrime Wiki or Dali website.
Then, you will understand the position of drain tap/bolt as well as the air bleeding procedure.
Please remember to set the A/C CCU target temperature to be at 32degC throughout the whole process.
For your reference, there are 2 drain bolts on at the engine block (Front & Rear) but you will get just a small drip from the Front block after draining the coolant from other places so just open the Rear one. Use some sort of hose to drain the coolant from here as you don't want your coolant to touch the header. It smells bad if you don't rinse it well afterwards.
There are another 2 drain bolts located at the centre floor pipes hidden by the long plastic cover running at the middle of the chassis. Be prepared to get wet when you open these 2 bolts.... 2 washers to be replaced.
And there is another one at the bottom left side of the radiator. It is red or white drain tap. O-ring to be replaced.
Addition to these drain points, you have 4 bleeding points. These are located at the thermo cover, engine bay coolant pipe through firewall, heater core pipe under the bonnet and at the top of the radiator.
It is best for you or your mechanic to follow the sequence described in the manual for air bleeding.
I never used the method to drain/fill the coolant by tilting the car. As I always replace the hoses and use vacuum fill method for coolant service, I can't provide you with my experience on this.
Considering the up/down/left/right shape of the coolant hoses and pipes, it may help for some parts but then could trap more water/air for other areas.
I can't stress enough the importance of bleeding the air from the coolant system so please read the manual several times and follow the procedure.
Regards,
Kaz