Why do they have less hp? What's different about them anyway?
Why do they have less hp? What's different about them anyway?
...converting automatics may not be as crazy as it sounds.
You would have to find all the bits first; and you would want to find them used otherwise its big ££££
As mentioned, down on power right away, depending on where you read, autos are around 252/256hp from start of production to the end.
Manuals are 274/276hp -3.0 and 280hp for 3.2
So a good bit of tuning needed to get an auto even close to 3.0 manuals.
All autos will have EPS/PAS too.
“Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth.”
後は、残っているものに関係なく、不可能なことを排除する方法 ありそうもない、真実でなければなりません。
Perhaps it was an exceptional mention in the Best Motoring International magazine I saw about NSX transmission swaps. They have so much stock there why they heck would they want to do that? The video also mentioned that NSX engines start to awaken at 70K miles?
Got marketing spiel?
i have driven manuals and autos and prefer autos,but i maybe biast as i have a low mileage auto for sal. lol
With the lower final drive ratio on the F Matic you will be pleasantly surprised how quick it is
something around 4:1 for the Auto box and around 4.4:1 for the F Matic , I'm sure Kaz will be able to confirm the actual ratios
so with the F Matic lower ratio and the wider torque band the car has a lot going for it.
The reduction of 15 BHP is due to bigger inlet valves and different cam profile to provide the wider torque band to compliment the 4 speed auto box.
(Bumping this thread instead of starting a new one)
Would love to hear about how the NSX's auto box works with the engine's VTEC crossover point. Does the autobox generally hold the lower gear until the redline? Or only with WOT?
And are the 4 auto gears chosen so that the change up from 1 to 2 and then 2 to 3 keeps the engine in the VTEC zone?
My NSX (when found) will be for road use only, and according to the reviews, VTEC band in 3rd and 4th in the manual are unavailable at road-legal speeds.
If the auto had well chosen 1st, 2nd & 3rd and a very long 4th, it might be more interesting? Although 0-60mph in 8s (really?) is pretty poor by any standard.
Last edited by goldtop; 30-10-2012 at 10:22 PM. Reason: spelling (again)
I have owned a manual 3.2 NA2 and now own an auto NA1, I have to say the 0 - 60 dosnt feel that different.
I bought my car in Ireland and drove it back from Holyhead to Poole late one evening down all the A roads, it was awesome. As a daily driver the auto box makes allot of sense so its worth trying.
If you find yourself in Bournemouth or Poole anytime pm me and you are welcome to come and take my car for a spin to see what you think.
Scott
1994 Red/black roof NA1 Manual
1993 Red/black roof NA1 Auto - SOLD
2001 Imola Orange Pearl NA2 T manual - SOLD
2019 Mercedes GLC - Daily Drive
Previous Toys
Chesil Porsche Speedster
GTD GT40 5.7 L Ford
2008 CAV GT40 5.7 L Ford Audi 6 speed trans
Ultima Sports 5.7 L SBC, G50 trans
Superformance AC Cobra 427 SC
Factory Demonstrator Ultima Sports 5.7 L SBC, G50 trans
what you have to remember with the NSX engine and Vtec is that the changeover is seamless. Civic type R, ITR and the like have a huge hole in the power curve so you feel the Vtec 'kick' as it switches. on the NSX it's just a clean power curve from idle to redline, so manual or auto, it makes no difference as you can't actually tell when Vtec is kicking in...
4800rpm?, 5300rpm? 6000rpm? you can't feel it change cams anyway!
and don't get me started on the difference in power outputs between manual and auto...
aka Jonathan!!
'92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
'37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!
...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....