NSX Health Check Service

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Have been away from this site for awhile but now I'm back.


While looking at the engine bay, I noticed lots of leaves inside the V-bank and surrounding area. So, decided to clear them out first.


This is not all of them but still, quite a lot. For some reason, this is not the first time I saw this amount of leaves inside the engine bay. Possibly something to do with the air flow caused by the wind inside the engine bay while you park, where you park and with the engine cover on…


Looks like the oil filter ….
I knew it would be tight with so much corrosion on the case and it already lost its original shape. Worried that I may not be able to apply enough torque before the attachment starts to slip… Challenge continues….


In the process of removing the right drive shaft.

I found that the Rear O2 sensor was replaced with aftermarket one but the cable was not long enough. It was using some sort of fixing to hold the cable to the bracket but the connector was not secured at the original position.

The heatshield covering the inner joint of right drive shaft was missing one of the three fixing bolts. It was not seared off but just missing…

The cable for the oil pressure sensor was not held in place. Not the first time to see this....

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

The spline was really seized into the hub. Even with the hydraulic puller, I had to leave it overnight. Eventually, it came out slowly.


The right drive shaft.

Initially, I thought the lots and lots of debris on the trigger teeth were contaminated grease from the outer joint.
However, when closely inspected, it was actually the trigger teeth got corroded and lost their original sharp shape.

We were very lucky that I already started rebuilding the right drive shaft using my spares as it is not cost effective to restore these 10’s of trigger teeth one by one using micro file.
Comparison of the good and bad trigger teeth in the photo. The refurbished outer joint painted in black with high temperature spec paint.

Also, there is no guarantee that the rollers inside this outer joint are not damaged after seeing so much grease splashed everywhere.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Spending hours cleaning these sticky nasty grease….. Already used more than 1L of cleaning agent…


Due to the corrosion at the trigger teeth, the sensor head was scraped and pushed back a little.
It was not enough to kill the sensor and because the sensor was still working, it didn’t trigger any error at ABS or TCS.

However, because of the increased gap, the signal level got weaken at lower speed. I think the combination of wider gap at the sensor head and badly corroded trigger teeth caused the high frequency brake pedal kick back every time when the car was just about to stop.


The new sensor head looks like this.
From the past experience and the report from another owner, I knew I’m going to struggle to take the sensor head out of the hub.

At the end, I had to destroy the sensor head as the corrosion was all around the sensor housing and fatten it. When the sensor is new, the housing is in black as above photo. However, when it came off, it was covered in white corrosion dust.


My biggest concern now is the left side drive shaft. The trigger teeth is in the same condition as the right side and I presume the sensor head is also damaged by now.

Unfortunately, I don’t have spare MT left drive shaft nor the spare RL speed sensor. I may not be able to fix the brake pedal kick back issue without working on the left side so I think we need to work on this next time…

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

The ABS accumulator.
As the member britlude reported, I thought about replacing the accumulator and pressure switch Assy from US as I think it is part of the ABS multiple issues.

However, after looking at the state of the ABS, I decided it is not cost effective to invest into this old/tired system.

There is no guarantee that it won’t fail in a few years time. Considering the state of the brake pipes and other ABS parts, we are now discussing about investing into the latest one body ABS module instead.

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Disassembling the brake calliper.

The inner pad on both Front callipers was seized inside the calliper bracket. I had to hammer them out to take them off.

This will result in very solid pedal feeling yet the car won’t slow down efficiently. Quite lot of owners are getting used to this feeling and won’t notice the lack of stopping power.

All four callipers were not seized but the slider mechanism was very heavy on all of them. When checked the state of the grease at the slider pins, it was almost dried up and not like a grease. In fact, when I wiped it off, it came off in block shape….

Another reason why it is so important to have your brake system refurbished at regular interval.


I don’t think I can re-use this banjo bolt….


Nicely corroded bolts at the rear brake hose bracket.

More to follow…

[goldnsx]

Wow, that's a nightmare of an amount of rust.

[NSXGB]

Apart from the IGN Coil Cover gasket, most of the gaskets will be installed into the covers at this stage to allow the liquid gasket to cure.

The two rubber seals each on the Front and Rear TB cover.
The very expensive single gasket on the TB Lower cover.
Two different gaskets and three round IGN Coil hole seals at the head/valve cover.

Hi Kaz,
Which liquid gasket do you use or recommend? Hondabond?
Is this the correct part number for the gasket set - 12030-PR7-010?

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, NSXGB.

In UK, I don’t have enough experience to recommend alternative products so Honda bond would be my first choice.

In Japan, I always use the specific one from one of the chemical company. In fact, I always keep them in stock at my place and brought them with me to UK.
As same as the grease that I use, this is part of my know-how so I would like to keep it for the people using my services.

Regarding the gaskets, there are lots of them replaced during the TB service.
Please refer to post #345 for the parts list. If you haven't changed the default 'view' setup for the NSXCB site, then it is on Page 35.

I think you are referring to the one used at the head/valve cover and if that is the case, then your number is correct. Please note that you need two for servicing both head/valve covers.


Regards,
Kaz

[AR]

All lovely Kaz but when are you going to offer the clutch service? Enquiring minds want to know LOL!

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

All four callipers are now removed.


As I don’t want any debris to get inside while I’m installing the pistons, boots, seals, etc, all of them need to be cleaned and washed thoroughly. It’s going to take a while….


Looks like a bleeder screw… Completely corroded…