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Thread: NSX Health Check Service

  1. #21
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    Checking the Drive shaft movement and the state of the boots. State of the sway-bar/stabiliser link
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    Sooner or later, your driveshaft needs attention. If you start noticing any clicking noise when moving the car back and forth, you better check your drive shaft. Especially among the owners with aftermarket header/exhaust system, the right side drive shaft boot tends to split/leak at very early stage. If you ignore the early sign, in the worst case scenario, you’ll need to replace the entire shaft which will be very-very expensive even getting the parts from US or Japan. HUK will charge you about GBP650 to 750 + VAT PER SIDE depending on the AT/MT type.
    I’ll be re-furbishing these drive shaft very soon for the owner.

    Stabi link was also very tired and most of the grease were gone…. The suspension setup on this particular car was too aggressive and ended up in this state… Will be modifying the setup and replacing other parts very soon.


    Bose Speaker Amp
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    As same as the Climate Control Unit (CCU), the Bose speaker amplifier will die due to the leakage from capacitors.
    On this car, one of the FET was burnt and at the same time, it damaged the Bose specific IC as well. Also, I had to replace some of the surface mount parts.
    Managed to service all 3 Amps on the car and now we have deep Bass from the footwell speaker and left/right door with centre speakers are now working fine.

  2. #22
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    CCU test mode. Repairing the plastic screw tab.
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    The CCU has built-in test mode to enable us checking its functionalities. This photo shows that it’s in test mode #3. I’ll check the CCU step by step to confirm the air temperature, fan speed, air flow mode, Air Con on/off and so on.

    Quite often, I noticed that lots of plastic parts were damaged by the people who worked on the owner’s NSX previously. This NSX was the same and had lots of plastic screw tab being cracked. I can repair them using special plastic material to form the exact shape.


    A/C gas leak check. Oil leak inspection.
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    If your Air Con gas was filled with special green colour dye, we can detect the leakage by applying the UV ray light. There are several common leakage points on our NSX. Better to sort it out now before the hot summer arrives...

    Speaking of leakage… Unfortunately, our engine tends to leak the engine oil from several places.
    Spool valve, oil pan, cam seals, head cover, etc…
    It is important to know the state of the leakage and it would be best to deal with these common leakage points at the time of timing belt change or major service. Then, you can relax for many years.

  3. #23
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    Door striker adjust. Boot lid striker adjust. Window screen upper seal.
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    All of our NSX were specially assembled by the special Honda craftsmen. Therefore, I can’t stand watching the un-even gap on the bonnet, door, retractable headlight cover, fuel filler door, boot lid, etc… Adjusted the door and boot lid on this NSX.
    Also, I will check the feeling of the door handle/opening lever as lots of NSX requires greasing on the internal linkage.

    The upper seal… Another common failure on our NSX especially if you park the car under the strong direct sun light for many days.
    Although the parts are quite cheap, it takes ages to clean up the debris after removing the seals. I will be working on this NSX very soon….


    Boot dampness check. Eng/AT/MT mount check.
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    Over the years, your boot weatherstrip will get tired allowing moisture to get inside. Also, if you place any wet items inside the boot, it will also cause lots of humidity inside the boot. As a side effect, it may cause moisture inside the tail light unit depending on the state of your light housing and the seals. Best to remove the carpet, dry it under the sun and clean the boot.

    Most of the rubber parts will be damaged due to the ageing. Because of the engine/trans layout, the mount at the Front and Rear will get the most of the rotational force. The ones on the side will also go through all sorts of force/frequency. You will find lots of hairline crack on these mounts and sometimes, the rubber part can split. Please don’t confuse yourself with the big gap and the rubber split. In order to tune the hardness and the frequency of the mount, there is a big gap on the mount from the beginning.



    There are more than 150 points to check during my Health Check service so I can’t cover all of them here but I hope my service will help you in keeping your NSX in top condition.

    In the future, I’ll be taking out my engine again to take lots of photos to introduce my new 'Refresh menu' for the engine .

    Regards,
    Kaz

  4. Default

    Kaz,

    It really is a pleasure to read about your passion and commitment to the NSX.

    I'll be in touch to arrange a health check asap.

    When you take the engine out to service it would there be any scope for enhancement or increased displacement? I know SOS in America offer this service but I've got no idea what's involved. If you were able to offer some sort of service like this then I would be more than interested and happy to be a gunnea pig! I'm due a cambelt service next year... maybe this would be a good time to perform the engine check and also any performance enhancements?

    If this is viable then maybe a new thread is in order...

    Many thanks,

    Luke
    1998S 3.2 red/black manual 4 years of great memories
    2004 54 red/red manual

    ---------------------------------------------------
    Quote autocar Nov 2005

    "Before the NSX supercars were crap"

  5. Default 1996 Targa 49000

    I guess £150 is fair. Please suggest a couple of date and times. Looking forward to it.

    Robert G 07764 365661

  6. Default

    I'd say that's an absolute bargain! From what i've read about Kaz he could charge double that per hour not just per inspection and it'd still be a reasonable price for his expert knowledege!
    Dave.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by bobbyswanbourne View Post
    Please suggest a couple of date and times. Looking forward to it.

    Robert G 07764 365661
    Hello Robert,

    Welcome to NSXCB and NSX ownership. Your time with Kaz will be time well spent and give you a better understanding of your car than any garage inspection/service.

    I look forward to catching up at a meet one day soon

    rergards, Paul
    Senninha

    'Too many manufacturers today are obsessed with lap times and power outputs at the expense of emotion and fun' Colin Goodwin

    S2 is signed by the NSX Project Leader Shigeru Uehara

  8. #28
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    Hi, Robert and all.

    Thank you for showing your interest to my service and especially for the warm message.

    I would like to forward you several information such as maps, photos and my background information, so I'll appreciate if you can contact me through email.

    Welcome to the club and I replied back to you by PM (no email option), Robert, so I hope you can have a look at it when you have a chance.

    Now back to work and need to sort out all of these parts just arrived from Japan...

    Regards,
    Kaz

  9. #29
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    Hi, all.

    Based on the result of Health check, this time, I was asked to look after the driveshaft, rideheight, sideway movement of steering column, cruise control and windscreen upper seal.

    The detail of the driveshaft service can be found in the other post as follows;

    http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/showthread.php?t=6504

    In order to service the driveshaft, obviously, you need to remove them first, re-furbish and then re-install them. Please follow the procedure described in the service manual and NEVER apply the huge torque on the 36mm spindle nut with the tyres in the air. Although the specified torque is 330Nm, most of the time, you will need significantly higher torque to loosen this nut if it was never removed or seized. You could damage the aluminium suspension parts.

    One time, my friend used 1,000Nm impact wrench and still the nut didn’t move at all. At the end, he had to use the special impact wrench with supplement air tank attached to it. The spec of this tool was well over 2,500Nm.

    Same for the re-installation. You will need the big torque wrench to handle the 330Nm specified torque. I use the 1”Sq one like this.
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    You’ll also need to drain the transmission oil if you are removing the left side driveshaft. This NSX was AT so required larger washer at the drain bolt. Some metal debris was noticed on the magnetic drain bolt which is quite normal if you drove it for many miles after the last ATF replacement.
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  10. #30
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    This NSX was heavily modified and one thing I didn’t like was the rideheight and the wheel spacers used. The rideheight was too low and restricting the suspension movement. Also some of the bushes were deformed. The wheel spacers were applying too much offset and forcing stress to other areas. Also, it was not the centering spacer type so there was no gurantee that the wheels were aligned to the centre of the hub. After some calculation and safety reasons, I decided to remove the spacers completely.

    As the coilover kit was so old and couldn’t get the spec of the spring from the manufacture, I decided to keep the pre-load and just change the rideheight. The damper requires regular overhaul but not going to carry it out this time. It will go through the alignment work at one of the race team. In the near future, I’ll be building the Bilstein kit so hope to put it on here very soon.
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    All of the modern production cars will have some sort of driver protection against sudden impact to the steering wheel under certain condition such as accident. On our NSX, there is a crushable structure holding the steering column. Because of the material used on this structure, quite lots of NSX will suffer from sideway movement on the steering column.

    If you grab your steering wheel, you should not feel any rattle/movement on horizontal direction.

    From time to time, I notice that the driver tends grab on the steering wheel on getting out of the seat especially if there was not enough room to open the door fully.
    This will be one of the most common cause of sideway movement at the steering column.

    If you experienced this issue, you need to get under the steering column and spend long hours to adjust the crushable mechanism to eliminate the small gap which will result in sideway movement. You will loose your body balance for a short period after this work as you will be spending long hours with your head lower than your body and putting yourself into the tiny space under the steering column.
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