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Thread: NSX Health Check Service

  1. #281
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    In the process of installing the new pipes. Even I carried out this process many times, it always requires some juggling as the new pipes are always bent differently during the shipment from the parts supplier each time.

    The installation of new pipes were done and just need to install the new ABS adaptor loom and pressure bleed the system.

    By the way, on modern production cars with this type of ABS, you need to be aware of changes in the bleeding procedure. In the past, the common rule for the cross passage brake system was to start from the most furthest corner against the brake master cylinder. For RHD NSX, we used to start from the Rear Left.
    However, with the new ABS, it is specified to start from the Front side. Having said this, you can still bleed the brake system with new ABS on our NSX using the traditional sequence but it would take extra time and more fluid required. On some of the modern production cars, you can no longer use the traditional method and you must follow the specific procedure by activating the ABS modulator for bleeding the brake.

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    The old ABS system is now converted into new type.

    Tomorrow, I'll deal with the wiring and bleeding the system.

    Regards,
    Kaz

  2. #282

    Thumbs up

    Kaz

    interesting read for sure, for us NA1 owners ... have to admit with discussions with Sudesh in the past re the ABS on my car I have my concerns re it, and this work would be something i would very much contemplate during ownership of my NSX as I plan to keep her. What is the total cost of this upgrade and how easy is it to get hold of the ABS system from Japan?

    Is this something you can do for us owners in the UK?

    Would there be able to be a group buy for this option with your supplier in Japan?

    Who else out there would be interested?

    Keep going with the great write up ...

  3. #283
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    Who else out there would be interested?

    I would.

    Graham

  4. #284

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    Not sure on Japan prices, but Honda UK price for the pump is £1,139.80 the bracket is £230 including vat, then you need all the other bits. Brake lines are not that expensive but to hazard aguess I'm sure your looking at about £1500++ just for parts, you could also try Andy at VTEC

    Kaz I noticed while pricing some bits that there seem to be a few different Modulators, the other ones are priced at £2,880!!

    Quote Originally Posted by nobby View Post
    Kaz

    interesting read for sure, for us NA1 owners ... have to admit with discussions with Sudesh in the past re the ABS on my car I have my concerns re it, and this work would be something i would very much contemplate during ownership of my NSX as I plan to keep her. What is the total cost of this upgrade and how easy is it to get hold of the ABS system from Japan?

    Is this something you can do for us owners in the UK?

    Would there be able to be a group buy for this option with your supplier in Japan?

    Who else out there would be interested?

    Keep going with the great write up ...
    “Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth.”

    後は、残っているものに関係なく、不可能なことを排除する方法 ありそうもない、真実でなければなりません。

  5. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sudesh View Post
    .......
    Kaz I noticed while pricing some bits that there seem to be a few different Modulators, the other ones are priced at £2,880!!
    Hi, Sudesh.
    Haven’t checked the price in UK but I think you are referring to the ABS on 2002 Type-R.

    For JDM, there are two different type of modulators, version Z03 (standard) and N21 (Type-R).
    The software setup is different and on 02 Type-R, the brake booster and master cylinder are different from standard models. The booster valve and ratio were increased to improve the response. For this reason, if you select 02 Type-R ABS modulator ver.N21, then you will need new booster, master cyl and two different brake pipes compared to the parts that I used this time.

    I tested both version on the street and also on track recently but because so many other factors were different on Type-R, I couldn’t carry out direct comparison between the two.
    Also, my driving skill is no-where near to the people I used to work with even I was on track every two weeks or so. Therefore, it is best to listen to the feedback from the professional driver. I was told that the entire brake system including the ABS on Type-R has faster response than the standard one so the ABS will kick in at early stage but also has better linearity control of brake pressure allowing the driver to take more control on brake.
    The stopping distance under panic brake condition would be shorter on the standard ABS modulator and this is why I went for the standard spec.

    Kaz

  6. #286

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    Thanks Kaz!

    Amazing info as always! Never realised the "R" had a different setup.

    Would love to experience it like you have and review all the differences first hand.

    When you going back to Japan next? Can I come along? lol

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1 View Post
    Hi, Sudesh.
    Haven’t checked the price in UK but I think you are referring to the ABS on 2002 Type-R.

    For JDM, there are two different type of modulators, version Z03 (standard) and N21 (Type-R).
    The software setup is different and on 02 Type-R, the brake booster and master cylinder are different from standard models. The booster valve and ratio were increased to improve the response. For this reason, if you select 02 Type-R ABS modulator ver.N21, then you will need new booster, master cyl and two different brake pipes compared to the parts that I used this time.

    I tested both version on the street and also on track recently but because so many other factors were different on Type-R, I couldn’t carry out direct comparison between the two.
    Also, my driving skill is no-where near to the people I used to work with even I was on track every two weeks or so. Therefore, it is best to listen to the feedback from the professional driver. I was told that the entire brake system including the ABS on Type-R has faster response than the standard one so the ABS will kick in at early stage but also has better linearity control of brake pressure allowing the driver to take more control on brake.
    The stopping distance under panic brake condition would be shorter on the standard ABS modulator and this is why I went for the standard spec.

    Kaz
    Last edited by Sudesh; 27-05-2010 at 09:04 PM.
    “Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth.”

    後は、残っているものに関係なく、不可能なことを排除する方法 ありそうもない、真実でなければなりません。

  7. #287
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    I priced this us a few months back and HUK quoted me £800 for the modulator. In the US it's about $800. When I get back I have a list of prices for most of the parts from the US if anyone is interested.
    I was told that the brake lines are actually quite expensive so I was going to buy the tools to make myself.

  8. #288
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    Couldn’t work on my NSX yesterday as I was too busy with other projects but managed to spend a few hours tonight and finished the installation.

    Just got back from the test driving session and once again, it confirmed the exact feeling of the latest ABS on later NSX models.

    The interval of kick back at the pedal is much quicker but very gentle and thus, so easy to control the car under braking. There was a tiny sideway movement under braking with the old ABS but with the new one, the car was super stable thanks to the quicker response time.

    Addition to this, no matter how many times I activated the ABS, I no longer hear the dreadful squeaking noise of old ABS pump. I used to hear this after activating the ABS about three times. The design of old ABS requires high stand-by pressure inside the accumulator to kick back the brake pedal on activation and thus, it will loose the pressure every time when you activate the ABS.

    I no longer needs to flush the accumulator or four solenoids every year or two using the SST T-wrench.

    When I tested the old and new ABS on track recently, I couldn’t use the old ABS on approach to the corner but with the new one, I used it on certain corners on purposely as it was so much easier to keep the rhythm.
    I hope I can arrange a practice session in UK in the future.

    I would like to test this new setup in wet condition especially with one tyre on the water paddle.


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    In the process of pressure bleeding the Brake system. As specified in the manual, I started with the Fronts for new ABS system.

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    By the way, if you work on your brake system and if you are not going to remove the master cyl from the car, it is best to keep the two brake pipes pointing upwards to minimise the air getting inside the master cyl. Due to the structure and the position of the feeding holes inside the cyl, it is time consuming process to get rid of the tiny air bubbles from the master cyl.

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    The adaptor/conversion loom was installed neatly with the big orange/black AMP connector at the new ABS modulator.
    Last edited by Kaz-kzukNA1; 27-05-2010 at 10:39 PM. Reason: Additional photo

  9. #289
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    To pass the loom into the cabin, some people uses the big window of the blower motor unit and pass the loom at the bottom but I prefer making small splice at the firewall main loom grommet and apply silicone sealant afterwards to prevent the noise, moisture and fume from getting inside the cabin.

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    The two orange connectors from the old ABS controller were connected to the adaptor loom. One of the orange connector is required purely for the TCS purpose so if you have disable the TCS like me, you don't even need to connect it.

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    As I am not going back to the old ABS but I may need to pass on the old system to one of the owner here, I decided to remove the old ABS controller from the big bracket. The manual states to take out the entire bracket first and then remove the four fixing bolts at the ABS controller but you can remove two bolts from the cabin and one bolt from the big window of the blower motor unit under the bonnet. The remaining 4th one is bit tricky but can be done with flex gear wrench from the cabin.

    If you don’t need to remove the old ABS controller, then probably best to leave it there to save your time.


    I have lots of other things to be done on my NSX wihtin a few days but probably only be able to do the fuel filter and possibly the new headers...

    Regards,
    Kaz
    Last edited by Kaz-kzukNA1; 28-05-2010 at 07:20 AM. Reason: Forgot the photo

  10. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by NSXGB View Post
    ...... When I get back I have a list of prices for most of the parts from the US if anyone is interested.
    I was told that the brake lines are actually quite expensive so I was going to buy the tools to make myself.
    Hi, NSXGB. Good idea to make your own brake pipes. Not that expensive to buy them from Japan as long as you are happy to bend some of them gently to minimise the size of the package.

    Just a reminder.
    None of the eight brake pipes from US for ABS conversion would be comaptible with our RHD NSX.

    Regards,
    Kaz

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