http://www.lambounfall.de/indexe.html
Cheers,
AR
http://www.lambounfall.de/indexe.html
Cheers,
AR
This is a very shooking report from a german Lamborghini owner.
Seems that this man had much luck to stay alive, these Lamborghini cars are dangerous.
But what about the brake upgrade advice?
Do you think about a broken rotor?
At the track here I have seen many broken rotors, but the most after crashing into the planks. Wheels and rotors are not made for that impacts.
I will watch this side for new reports.................
At the end, the steering-screw which might not have been tightened enough.
If the recall work obviously hasnt been done it could be the MOST realistic reason for that accident.
Two piece discs shouldn't be a problem as the shear should be taken on the wheel nuts not the carriers. However I can't see any other reason than a disc failure on that lambo as the hub is intact inside an intact wheel. It is fairly normal on race bikes to see discs shearing when they go down and the brake leaver hits the deck and stops a spinning wheel dead at xxx mph. Perhaps the same here?Originally Posted by Procar Specials
Dirk, what are the average costs involved of fitting Type-R discs and pads?
Guardian of 'POB'
[quote=reg what are the average costs involved of fitting Type-R discs and pads?[/quote]
I asked Norton Way how much to do this and was quoted @£350 which included changing the fluid.
I'm doing the disc and pad swap myself for 2 reasons, a) its only 4 bolts and 2 screws to strip each corner and b) it allows me the chance to clean everthing before re-assembly.
I'll have Norton do the braided hoses and fluid at the next service.
HTH
regards
Paul
Senninha
'Too many manufacturers today are obsessed with lap times and power outputs at the expense of emotion and fun' Colin Goodwin
S2 is signed by the NSX Project Leader Shigeru Uehara
Dirk ?
Dirk = http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/testvb/forumdisplay.php?f=25
BTW...
I have 2 used NSX-R slotted front rotors in stock
(good condition)
size 298x28mm
These units are for sale.
Also for sale are 2x new 2pcs rear slotted rotors in 303x23mm, they are lighter
than the JDM rotors with the same quality.
They do work perfect together, I had another set installed for 6 months in year 2005.
I also have special pads for that rotors in stock.
They do make a big difference in brake performance.
PM if you have more questions...
Finally, my name is Detlef.
I will do the discs myself, maybe get the dealer to change the lines or if I am feeling in a 'can be bothered' mood do it myselfOriginally Posted by Senninha
The Blue Point discs that I had on the teg have come in at a bargain £260 each, no, they couldn't beleive it either but they did comment that they supply 'some of the hub' which is odd? They (Partco) also have there own brand discs that retail at £35 each, but that's worryingly cheap IMO.
I have never been good with names, sorry :oops:
Guardian of 'POB'
Good man, get those spanners working. I'm leaving the lines because of the bleeding process which includes the ABS system, better safe than sorry, plus a dealer stamp for the future.Originally Posted by reg
PS, if you haven't got an impact driver, beg steal or borrow one to release the philips screws in the discs ....... and a BIG hammer. The fronts were a b******d to release, whereas the rears fell off!
Good luck
Paul
Senninha
'Too many manufacturers today are obsessed with lap times and power outputs at the expense of emotion and fun' Colin Goodwin
S2 is signed by the NSX Project Leader Shigeru Uehara
I guess with the modulator failures it would make sense to get them to do that. The retainers on the teg were a nightmare. I ended up drilling the heads off of them. Luckily I have access to a few impact tools and wouldn't give up my trusty impact driver for anything, even though it looks pretty mushroomed these days.Originally Posted by Senninha
Guardian of 'POB'
PM for the R brake kit.
Sometimes impact tools cant fix that problem.
I guess that you have to drill out the philips screws.
This happened at all my Hondas....much luck from here
Using a M5 borer should be the best if there is no other way.
Its an easy job, the screw will be unfixed from self after some millimeters.
I recomment M6 VA stainless steel socket screws for the future.
Its a good idea to change them every year 1x, you never will have problems again.
[QUOTE=rsevo6]Thank you very muchOriginally Posted by modarr
speed on track is indirectly proportional to the value of your car