Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: Failed MOT - driver side headlamp

  1. #11

    Default

    Cheers RCGF,
    I'm in London for a few days so will check this out when I get home.

    Memory suggests I've 3 buttons, I just can visualise/recall seeing the rotary knob, or the headlamp water jet button (what a cool place to put it) ....but I've barely sat in the car this year so could be wrong. However, as I've a whirring motor from the right headlamp I guess that can only mean I do have a euro/UK spec car with the automatically adjusting headlamp unit....right?

    That aliexpress part does indeed look like a similar part, and for £10.91, (with a £3.62 discount on orders over a whopping £4.52) it has to be worth a punt ;-)

    Deactivating the motor is exactly what I'm hoping to do. From my untrained eye - against the garage door - they looked fine, I bet they are, but I obviously don't want the motor engaged constantly. Anyone know if I can simply pull a fuse to stop it?

    I may still get it fixed properly, but this may at least enable me to get an MOT and take her out a few times before the salty roads come.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    RAF Lossiemouth, Moray
    Posts
    1,765

    Default

    Sorry for late reply,

    yes, my car is a UK spec car. Have you found a solution yer?

    Cheers
    Jim
    1992 NSX, 3.0 Manual, (Was Sebring Silver) Now Kaiser Silver

    2018 Jaguar XE, 2.0 R-Sport 250, Loire Blue.

    2013 Kawazaki ER6F, Metalic Green.

  3. #13

    Default

    Got home late last night so no, no further forward.

    I did however just go and peer in the window and see I have the four buttons in the centre area as was explained denotes a UK/Euro car. Will go and play with the light levelling button tomorrow and see if anything happens. May also pop over to the mechanic, if weather kind, and see if he has any initial thoughts. Will advise once actions taken, thanks.

  4. #14

    Default

    Haven’t done much digging but did fire up the car yesterday.

    Put the lights up, right hand side whirring away, even before I put the lights up, as is the problem. Fiddled with the little knob between the seats and nothing happens. I didn’t expect the light, on the garage door, to move on the right hand side, but assumed the left light pattern would raise or lower, but it did nothing???

    That’s what this button is meant to do, right? Still not been over to the mechanic I’m hoping will take a look but should manage when I get back next week, if the bloody weather eases up!

  5. #15

    Default

    Ok have booked my car in with my mechanic on Dec 9th so will hopefully learn more then.

    Upon explaining the issue over the phone it struck me that maybe I’m not fully comprehending the issue. Mine is a UK car, with the rotary knob in the cabin to adjust beam height. So even though I’ve never touched the rotary knob for s9me reason, capacitor drain suggested, the motor used to activate the lamp is spinning. As the beam isn’t moving I guess this means the motor assembly has disconnected itself from some mechanical linkage.

    If I can reconnect it, is it the mechanical linkage that acts as the shut off to stop the motor? Thanks guys.

  6. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonners View Post
    Ok have booked my car in with my mechanic on Dec 9th so will hopefully learn more then.

    Upon explaining the issue over the phone it struck me that maybe I’m not fully comprehending the issue. Mine is a UK car, with the rotary knob in the cabin to adjust beam height. So even though I’ve never touched the rotary knob for s9me reason, capacitor drain suggested, the motor used to activate the lamp is spinning. As the beam isn’t moving I guess this means the motor assembly has disconnected itself from some mechanical linkage.

    If I can reconnect it, is it the mechanical linkage that acts as the shut off to stop the motor? Thanks guys.
    That's not quite the problem . . .

    The problem (probably) is that the capacitors within the control circuit attached to the motor have failed. This usually means they have leaked their contents over the circuit board to which they are attached. Depending on stage of damage, the electrical circuit could be repairable just by replacing the capacitor (i.e. the only problem is that the capacitor is not functioning as intended within the electrical circuit), but the leaked capacitor contents tend to corrode the other elements of the circuit board, even down to the copper tracks that pass electrical signals over the surface of the board.

    It sounds like the control circuitry in one of your headlight adjust motors has failed on (so it will run forever), and the other one has failed off (so it won't run at all). Worth checking if the symptoms you see change depending on whether the control knob is turned to the 0, 1, or 2 position.

    This is unfortunately a common problem for 90s cars that use this kind of capacitor on circuit boards. You might be alarmed to know that this type of failure can happen in several areas on the NSX - two of the most common areas for it are the climate control unit and the radio.

    Kaz and Heineken both have blogs discussing repair of this kind of failure to a radio circuit board - see link below for one that Kaz posted recently:

    http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?272...ra)-service-01

    http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?272...ra)-service-02
    Last edited by RedCarsGoFaster; 24-11-2022 at 07:27 PM.

  7. #17

    Default

    RCGF, many thanks for your input and attaching the links, and apologies for the delay in responding, crazy end to the year!

    Finally, I now understand what you chaps mean, both re my specific problem and the general issues related to the NSX electronics. I guess I’ll need to do some reading and see removal of these circuits is even remotely possible for someone like me, or even at the local garage.

    Assuming the issue is indeed circuit board related, i don’t suppose buying a new headlamp assembly, as suggested by Honda, is likely to make any difference.

    I hope everyone had a merry Christmas, and all the very best for 2023.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    colchester
    Posts
    439

    Default

    To stop the motor whirring you can quite easily disconnect the centre console switch.
    I have a 1993 NSX, open the centre console compartment, lift the bottom cushioned plate using a small flat head screwdriver at the front middle. That should reveal 4 screws, undo and the compartment will lift out, push the height adjuster button from underneath then undo the centre screw holding the console that should give enough space to disconnect the blue connector to the switch.
    Here’s a thread which shows the capacitor circuit board and other info. If the link doesn’t work use the search bar and type headlight height adjuster (the thread is either 2019 or 2019)


    http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.ph...ight-adjusters






    http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?15725-UK-spec-pop-up-headlight-height-adjusters

  9. #19

    Default

    I'd disconnect at the headlamp end and replace the switch with a blank.

    Pretend it's JDM Yo!

    I think it's the 'needs to function where fitted' thing. And it's not as if you regularly carry a few bags of builders' dust in the boot at night.
    Nick



    “I find myself irresistibly attracted to cars that nobody else buys. The NSX is a classic of the genre because nobody buys it and yet it’s a fantastic car. It’s got a wonderful compactness and simplicity and unpretentiousness to it. Honda rudely continues to make them whether we like it or not, even though there can be no commercial logic in doing so — I thoroughly admire that.” Rowan Atkinson

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •