Originally Posted by
Kaz-kzukNA1
Seems like chasing two or even more issues and all related each other.
Because of this, even you replaced/refurbished something, it is soon damaged again or creating another new issue related to the remaining ones by addressing just one thing at a time….
Q1: What is the measured dark current at the moment?
Q2: Have your battery drop load tested. Result?
Probably dead even if you have replaced it. Going through de-sulphation mode may recover it but the damages were already done.
Remember, although people uses the term '12V system', the ordinary lead acid battery with 100% charge would be around 13.0V.
Anything below 12V is like less than 50% charge state.
Q3: When you managed to start the engine and at idle rpm once warmed up, what is the voltage reading at the dash gauge?
Measuring at ACG +B terminal using multimeter would be better but for now, the dash gauge reading is ok.
Should be around 14.5V.
Q4: While keeping eye on the volt gauge, blip TH pedal several times gently to like somewhere 2,500 - 3,000rpm from idle rpm. 800 -> 2,500 -> 800 -> 2,500 -> 800,…..
Everytime when you blip the TH, does the volt gauge fluctuate like more than 0.5V or does the needle stay almost at the same reading?
If staying at steady reading, is it the same as Q3 or slightly higher?
Q5: Put IGSW into P2 ON. Keep eye on the volt gauge and gently wiggle it towards P3 START position but without activating the starter.
Does the volt gauge fluctuate?
Q6: How did you check the GND cable? Did you check the chassis GND point behind the battery case?
You can't check it without removing the battery case first.
Alternatively, you can measure the resistance between battery negative post and GND point inside the eng bay.
There are other things to check but these are at least enough to start with.
Kaz