Quote Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1 View Post
Seems like chasing two or even more issues and all related each other.

Because of this, even you replaced/refurbished something, it is soon damaged again or creating another new issue related to the remaining ones by addressing just one thing at a time….

Q1: What is the measured dark current at the moment?

Q2: Have your battery drop load tested. Result?
Probably dead even if you have replaced it. Going through de-sulphation mode may recover it but the damages were already done.
Remember, although people uses the term '12V system', the ordinary lead acid battery with 100% charge would be around 13.0V.
Anything below 12V is like less than 50% charge state.

Q3: When you managed to start the engine and at idle rpm once warmed up, what is the voltage reading at the dash gauge?
Measuring at ACG +B terminal using multimeter would be better but for now, the dash gauge reading is ok.
Should be around 14.5V.

Q4: While keeping eye on the volt gauge, blip TH pedal several times gently to like somewhere 2,500 - 3,000rpm from idle rpm. 800 -> 2,500 -> 800 -> 2,500 -> 800,…..
Everytime when you blip the TH, does the volt gauge fluctuate like more than 0.5V or does the needle stay almost at the same reading?
If staying at steady reading, is it the same as Q3 or slightly higher?

Q5: Put IGSW into P2 ON. Keep eye on the volt gauge and gently wiggle it towards P3 START position but without activating the starter.
Does the volt gauge fluctuate?

Q6: How did you check the GND cable? Did you check the chassis GND point behind the battery case?
You can't check it without removing the battery case first.
Alternatively, you can measure the resistance between battery negative post and GND point inside the eng bay.


There are other things to check but these are at least enough to start with.

Kaz
Thank you everyone for the tips.

Honda have replaced the battery under warranty. I managed to take the car for a run this afternoon and everything appears to be running fine at the moment. I do still have concerns at the rate batteries have failed recently though. My storage situation has been in place for quite a while but it is only fairly recently that I have had rapid battery failures!


Kaz in response to your questions,

1: I assume by dark current you mean the current draw on the battery with everything off? I have a multimeter with a fork type current measurement but it only reads as low as 0.1A. With the fork around the cable directly behind the battery terminal it is not registering any current draw.


2: Battery was dead and has now been replaced.


3:Voltage at ACG +B terminal is 14.4v and dash gauge is reading just above 14v.


4:Throughout the checks there was no visual fluctuation in the gauge reading.


5:IGSW in P2, (all the dash light are on). As I turn the key towards P3 I reach a dead spot where all the lights go out and nothing happens until I turn a little further and then the starter engages. Wiggling the key I don't get any chattering like a poor connection, it is either P2, the dead spot or starter engaged. Dash voltage gauge stable at 13v in P2, shuts off in the dead spot and comes back to 14v when started but doesn't show any fluctuations other than switching at specific points.


6: GND cable was checked for resistance with a multimeter and visually with the battery removed.


Many thanks


Olly