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Thread: Electrical issues.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
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    Crawley, West Sussex
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    456

    Default Electrical issues.

    Hi all,

    I'm hoping somebody might be able to give me a few tips as to where to start looking for a problem.

    What I believed to be an issue with bad batteries appears to be something more in depth. As I have mentioned on a different thread my car is stored in a garage without power so I am unable to connect a battery conditioner, which results in the battery often running flat if the car has not been used for a couple of weeks, which I know is not ideal.
    Issues started with the battery starting to loose charge after just a couple of days and then only charging to about 9V. After replacing the first battery I found that the battery didn't seem to be charging properly on the car and had the alternator refurbished. All seemed to be ok for a while but then started to have the same issues again with the battery not holding charge. I replaced the battery again expecting the frequent discharge to be the issue but the problem is again reoccurring.

    If I jump start from another car it has no problem starting but now if I try and start from a power bank the voltage is being pulled down so far that it does not start.
    Took the car out today and a new issue appeared. A couple of times the engine momentarily cut out, all the dash lights come up as if turning the ignition to position 2 and then cleared back to normal! This was literally a split second thing and I was moving on each occasion but I suspect if I had been stationary the engine would have stalled.

    Any body have an idea of what the problem might be?

    Thanks

    Olly

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Dunedin, South Island, New Zealand
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    500

    Default

    Main relay?
    Battery connecting cable frayed / twisted?
    December '99 GH-NA2 110 series - 6AS62 Type S in Monte Carlo Blue Pearl

  3. #3

    Default

    Hi olly
    Have you checked the battery terminals for clean tight connection ? Then I would checked the earth connection from battery to chassis/ body . I'm no expert mind . Then swoop out main relay . As nznick said.

  4. #4

    Default

    If you let the battery run down to flat it probably wont hold a charge for more than a few hours . Can you run a solar battery charger from the roof to the car . It might help a bit or disconnect the battery.
    97 Sebring Silver Ex Honda show car.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Crawley, West Sussex
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    Default

    Thanks for the comments.
    Battery connections and ground cable good.
    I haven't changed the main relay and that may explain the momentary shutdowns but I haven't had any issues starting usually associated with relay failure, just low voltage.
    I did buy an optimate solar charger/conditioner but this doesn't seem to generate enough power to maintain the battery charge.
    I have a vented bonnet on the car which means the battery is located behind the duct making access to the battery a bit more awkward and certainly not something I would want to have to get to every time I use the car. Extending the positive cable with an accessible switch may be an option.
    Thanks

    Olly

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    West Sussex
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    Default

    Hi Olly. Sorry to hear you are having problems.

    I have a spare main relay kicking about somewhere (fits my 2001 NA2, not sure if these are year specific?) You're more than welcome to borrow it and swap yours out. (I'm away for the weekend but back early next week). Just shout.
    2001 3.2 Circuit Blue Coupe with pop-ups!

    "If you want to argue that The Best Car in the World is a supercar, go ahead. But there is only one that makes the grade. Only one that's built properly.
    Gordon Murray knows.
    Rowan Atkinson knows.
    It's the Honda NSX."
    (J. Clarkson)

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Crawley, West Sussex
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WhyOne? View Post
    Hi Olly. Sorry to hear you are having problems.

    I have a spare main relay kicking about somewhere (fits my 2001 NA2, not sure if these are year specific?) You're more than welcome to borrow it and swap yours out. (I'm away for the weekend but back early next week). Just shout.
    Hi Ian,

    Thank you for your kind offer. My feeling at the moment is that something is putting a high draw on the battery but if I can't find an issue I may take you up on that just to eliminate it.

    Thanks

    Steve

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Crawley
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    Default

    Looking at what the main relay does all points to curing your problems Steve, anyway good luck.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by lotusolly View Post
    Hi Ian,

    Thank you for your kind offer. My feeling at the moment is that something is putting a high draw on the battery but if I can't find an issue I may take you up on that just to eliminate it.

    Thanks

    Steve
    I too have had this problem with my NSX since purchase nearly 10 years ago. Even the mighty Kaz was unable to source the problem - there are some old threads on my issues. I have replaced the battery several times and found that the only solution was to keep it on a CTEK all the time. If not, the battery will run flat in several weeks. I have had a car electrics speacialist look at it with no luck. Having said that my car sat motionless in the garage for 6 months over the winter on the Ctek and when I fired it up a few weeks ago it started flawlessly on the first turn of the starter.

    I would certainly like to know the cause and if there is a solution.
    1999 3.2 Manual NA2 Targa in Formula Red

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Seems like chasing two or even more issues and all related each other.

    Because of this, even you replaced/refurbished something, it is soon damaged again or creating another new issue related to the remaining ones by addressing just one thing at a time….

    Q1: What is the measured dark current at the moment?

    Q2: Have your battery drop load tested. Result?
    Probably dead even if you have replaced it. Going through de-sulphation mode may recover it but the damages were already done.
    Remember, although people uses the term '12V system', the ordinary lead acid battery with 100% charge would be around 13.0V.
    Anything below 12V is like less than 50% charge state.

    Q3: When you managed to start the engine and at idle rpm once warmed up, what is the voltage reading at the dash gauge?
    Measuring at ACG +B terminal using multimeter would be better but for now, the dash gauge reading is ok.
    Should be around 14.5V.

    Q4: While keeping eye on the volt gauge, blip TH pedal several times gently to like somewhere 2,500 - 3,000rpm from idle rpm. 800 -> 2,500 -> 800 -> 2,500 -> 800,…..
    Everytime when you blip the TH, does the volt gauge fluctuate like more than 0.5V or does the needle stay almost at the same reading?
    If staying at steady reading, is it the same as Q3 or slightly higher?

    Q5: Put IGSW into P2 ON. Keep eye on the volt gauge and gently wiggle it towards P3 START position but without activating the starter.
    Does the volt gauge fluctuate?

    Q6: How did you check the GND cable? Did you check the chassis GND point behind the battery case?
    You can't check it without removing the battery case first.
    Alternatively, you can measure the resistance between battery negative post and GND point inside the eng bay.


    There are other things to check but these are at least enough to start with.

    Kaz
    Last edited by Kaz-kzukNA1; 17-04-2019 at 02:10 PM. Reason: numbering of questions

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