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Thread: eps steering rack.... delvin into the deep!

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbvnsx View Post

    when you mention your current EPS rack is showing a slight lag in assist, do you think it could be related to missing teeth on the gears? Asking these because i can also feel that lag and was considering opening my EPS rack to see if that would be the cause... Or do you think it could be something diferent?

    i'm not sure what the cause of that is, as the rack i'm stripping didn't do that, it just had the knock if i went over a bump, and the dry bearing/gear sound.....
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  2. #12
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    Well, the 4 input shaft housing bolts did not want to play (sad face) after breaking the security torx bit, bending the security torx key, we tried a little lateral thinking…. Are the bolts hardened? Rubbing a file over them shows they are not, so a quick careful drill and the centre pip is removed, turning the security torx screws into normal torx screws….. so I have another set of tools I can use…. Alas they are still too tight, and instead of the tool breaking, the head ‘smudged’.. yup, def corroded in!

    Oh well, drill them out then, removing just the head, to give….

    The sensor bolts would not come undone .. by jon sutherland, on Flickr

    Drilling just enough to take the head off, leaving me a stub to work with….. obviously the unit should just pull off now it has no fixings holding it…. ‘should’

    You know that wasn’t the case, having to fashion a ‘jacking’ jig to separate the 2 pieces of aluminium….. that was a faff, but eventually it moved!!!


    Seems there was corrosion on the bolts, and corrosion on the aluminium faces were keeping it in place. Still once off I could work on the bolts remains, 3 are out, one is still being stubborn so is soaking before I attack it further!!!

    The sensor bolts would not come undone .. by jon sutherland, on Flickr


    Shaft was removed, motor magnet assembly next, then the motor and base, 3 black allen headed bolts buried in a black hole!

    The sensor bolts would not come undone .. by jon sutherland, on Flickr

    Soon it was looking like this….
    The sensor bolts would not come undone .. by jon sutherland, on Flickr

    (seems all the other ‘exploded eps rack’ pictures on the internet have vanished)
    Last edited by britlude; 04-03-2019 at 09:48 PM.
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  3. #13
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    Motor commutator cleaned up with some 2000 grit paper!

    The sensor bolts would not come undone .. by jon sutherland, on Flickr


    And the dry bearing/gear noise???? Seems that is caused by the motor brushes, so not a lot I can do about that unless there are some suggestions from the floor! (shall see if that’s improved by the commutator clean)


    hmm. seems the nsxrackrepair people in america are unwilling to send me a kit of the overhaul parts,but want the rack sent to them.....
    Last edited by britlude; 03-03-2019 at 11:40 PM.
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  4. #14

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    Maybe if you change the rotor bearings you will get rid of unwanted bearing/gear noise

    ...and by the way it looks like in the past the commutator was on the lathe deep correction

  5. #15
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    The noise is definitely the brushes... Take the springs off, release the brushes and spin the motor, the noise stops... I shall seat the brushes when I reassemble... New bearings going in of course

    That would be a serious cut in the commutator to get a step like that ... Pictures of other motors (now few and far between) show the same layout.... If the copper segments were that ''blocky' they'd be too heavy to stay bonded on with the motor spinning....
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  6. #16

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    I found some photos from Japan from the refubished EPS process and I suggested them - now I know it's a factory design commutator


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    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #17
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    where did you find those pics?????

    right..... back to the casings, and getting the last seized bolt out..... i tried 'footprint' pliers.. no go, tried my decent mole grips, alas running out of metal to grip, i dug out a m6 nut and placed it over the remaining stub......

    then hit it with my mig welder....
    The last seized bolt.... by jon sutherland, on Flickr


    a combination of having something decent to put a spanner on, and a huge amount of heat (it was glowing orange!)....

    The last seized bolt.... by jon sutherland, on Flickr

    out it popped



    next up was the spigot needle bearing that locates the far end of the input drive spindle.... deep in a blind hole....

    The last seized bolt.... by jon sutherland, on Flickr

    now the usual trick is to fill the hole with grease, and then use a snug fitting drift, hammering it into the hole, the grease gets pressurised and hydraulics the bearing out... unfortunately this is usually used on sintered/solid bushes, and the needle rollers give enough space for the grease to escape..... so onto something thicker....



    and ta-da......

    Bearing removed with a candle!! by jon sutherland, on Flickr

    candle wax did the trick! i've also seen it done with bread! basically you are jamming something malleable into the hole, and the only thing that can move is the bearing!
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  8. #18
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    i managed to lever and tease the ball screw yoke bearings out.... to find this.....

    2019-03-04_07-58-38 by jon sutherland, on Flickr

    turns out they are a sort of soft mount, and the soft bit has decided not to do it's thing anymore. i shall try to source some, if not i shall turn up some plastic inserts. i'm guessing they act as a shock absorber between the rack and the ball screw, but not a lot of shock spacing, as there's negligible clearance between the inner and outer metal when assembled..... at least there's a picture of it on the internet now!


    this is the back side of the ball screw.....

    IMG_20190304_200311 by jon sutherland, on Flickr

    inside there is a track that matches the track/thread you can see on the screw. ball bearings sit between the 2, and so the ball bearings have somewhere to roll to, they come out of the nut, and then go back in through the tube on the back..... you DON'T really want to split one of these, it can be done, but getting the balls back in the system is a right pain!
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  9. #19
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    i asked the guys in america if they could supply a 'overhaul' kit of bearings, the bronze bush that goes in the passenger end, and their replacement gear for the sensor unit.....


    Mr. Delmonte.... he say NO.


    so i have to source my own bearings, obviously had they supplied the bearings, i would have kept their numbers confidential, as they have done their research.... however, this is now MY research.... so.....

    IMG_20190304_200031 by jon sutherland, on Flickr

    input shaft location, and the ball screw end support....

    IMG_20190304_200111 by jon sutherland, on Flickr

    and the motor bearings..... (both the same)

    IMG_20190304_200227 by jon sutherland, on Flickr


    it's not rocket science, it's nothing secret, they are standard bearings..... and the part numbers are written on them!



    it didn't help that they gave me a load of schpeel as to what caused the 'dry' noise.....

    Screeching and clicking is a result of the bushings causing the main shaft to sag, which causes the brushes on the armature to drag across the com. This causes excess wear on that motor, so just keep that in mind the longer you wait, the more effects it could have on your rack.

    as the motor is supported both ends by the pictured bearings, it's never going to move relative to the brushes unless there's catastrophic failure of the bearings, in fact the bearing is mounted to the brush pack!..... the only bushing in the rack is at the passenger side end....hmmm......


    yes, they annoyed me!!! lol

    EDIT... one of the motor bearings has the bore opened up by 1mm to clear the gear end of the motor....
    Last edited by britlude; 05-03-2019 at 09:07 PM.
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  10. #20

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    .....do not give up just go to the turner (machinen shop) and make these bronz bushings before assembling

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