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Thread: My Honda battery seems to let go every 2 years. Any suggestions as to why???🤔

  1. #41

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    So, forgoing the footie-fest when I got home I decided to check all the points that you suggested Jonathan, that's after having charged the new Honda battery for 24hrs this time with my old trusty analog charger directly connected to the battery posts in the front.

    Now bearing in mind this battery is brand new and it read 12.5v straight out of the box on Sunday and also held rock solid on my drop tester.
    Yet when I checked the voltage on getting home today the battery read 10.42v at both the front and rear of the car and the analog charger was making my alarm siren giving a strange, quite squeaking noises while I could hear the charger protesting while still connected and changing.

    The Clifford alarm has got non volatile alarm and immobiliser circuits so when in valet mode it's completely by-passed.

    I disconnected the charger and tried to crank the engine after turning off the immobiliser, the dash light went completely dimmed out in the crank position and not even enough power to generate a loud clicking noise at the starter, I've never heard or witnessed this before on any car and I've worked on a good few hundred in my time.

    Biggest question therefore is why has the battery not charged and actually dropped in charge to 10.42v???
    It's as if though something is massively restricting it from being charged or massively discharging it while charging, very odd.

    I thought last night that my CTEK MX5 charger had become faulty which is why I connected my old analog charger, but the CTEK is fine as it fully charged my Audi A4 battery in just 2 hours.

    I then connected the booster jump pack at the rear and it cranked and started straight away.
    I noticed that the short jump pack leads got very hot in the short time it took me to walk around to the near side rear to remove the jump pack terminals.

    On its fast cold tick over the alternator kicks out a very healthy 14.58volts.

    Any suggestions as I've run out of ideas????

    I'm tonight going to remove the battery earth this time before fully charging the battery over night on the CTEK.

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    Last edited by Pride; 19-06-2018 at 07:22 PM.
    Pride.

    1992 My beloved Red/Black manual NA1.😎
    1992 Chevy Lumina apv Rockford Fosgate sound system demo van.🙉
    2003 Hartge Mini Cooper S (2 x UK & 1 x European sound quality finals winner) 🏆 

    "The NSX's greatest victory was to WIN the 1995 Le Mans 24hr GT2 Class"
    ..............and guess what, it was a RED one but of course.  

  2. #42
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    And if you connect the jump pack at the battery end???

    The leads are hot as there's a lot of current going thru it.. if they are getting hot without cranking you have a big issue somewhere...

    is all the disco lighting connected to the same place, can it be isolated easily.... something is killing the battery, if you disconnect it is there a spark?

    next one will be to disconnect the battery, and put a ammeter between the positive and the positive battery clamp and read the 'resting' current....
    Last edited by britlude; 19-06-2018 at 07:36 PM.
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  3. #43

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    Quote Originally Posted by britlude View Post
    And if you connect the jump pack at the battery end???

    The leads are hot as there's a lot of current going thru it.. if they are getting hot without cranking you have a big issue somewhere...

    is all the disco lighting connected to the same place, can it be isolated easily.... something is killing the battery, if you disconnect it is there a spark?

    next one will be to disconnect the battery, and put a ammeter between the positive and the positive battery clamp and read the 'resting' current....
    I've just tried the jump pack at the battery end and it fires up just as if connected at the rear end and the leads stay cool when just connected without cranking, so that's good.

    Leaving the engine running I remove the jump pack, getting back in the car I turn off the engine and immediately try to restart it, all dash lights are much dimmer than normal and in crank position all go out due to lack of power.

    I've pulled all the fuses on the various disco led lighting so they're now isolated.

    And I've now disconnected both battery terminals and the CTEK is doing it's ting for the night.

    In the morning with a fully charged new battery again I will check out the current draw at rest with my ammeter.

    To me it's beginning to look more and more like a possible ignition switch, have you ever heard of that causing this sort of problem???
    Pride.

    1992 My beloved Red/Black manual NA1.😎
    1992 Chevy Lumina apv Rockford Fosgate sound system demo van.🙉
    2003 Hartge Mini Cooper S (2 x UK & 1 x European sound quality finals winner) 🏆 

    "The NSX's greatest victory was to WIN the 1995 Le Mans 24hr GT2 Class"
    ..............and guess what, it was a RED one but of course.  

  4. #44
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    Jul 2008
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    Nr Watford, Hertfordshire
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    I'm wondering if you have a starter solenoid not disengaging properly and possibly shorting to earth and draining the battery. It might explain why the car wouldn't start again. Having said that though, have you checked the battery earth lead to the body for good continuity?

  5. #45

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hagasan View Post
    I'm wondering if you have a starter solenoid not disengaging properly and possibly shorting to earth and draining the battery. It might explain why the car wouldn't start again. Having said that though, have you checked the battery earth lead to the body for good continuity?
    Thanks Gary, I've actually double and triple checked all the earth points I can find on the car and they all look in solid fine condition.

    I've got to say that the starter sounds perfectly normal when spinning the engine over with the jump pack but the battery I installed on Sunday hasn't been able to do that under its own power yet, I will try it in the morning once fully charged again.
    Pride.

    1992 My beloved Red/Black manual NA1.😎
    1992 Chevy Lumina apv Rockford Fosgate sound system demo van.🙉
    2003 Hartge Mini Cooper S (2 x UK & 1 x European sound quality finals winner) 🏆 

    "The NSX's greatest victory was to WIN the 1995 Le Mans 24hr GT2 Class"
    ..............and guess what, it was a RED one but of course.  

  6. #46
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    so something on the car is discharging the battery then, the current draw sufficient to discharge quicker than a charger can top it up.... if the batt is now disconnected, and it charges fine then its down the putting on an ammeter and pulling fuses to eliminate circuits!!

    it use to be the case that the car had to run for about 20 mins to replace the energy taken out the battery to start the car, i'm sure that's reduced now with geared starters etc, but if the batt was flat before you started it with the jump pack, i'm not surprised it didn't restart......


    (the leads would be hot on the jump pack after the starting current AND 'whatever is flattening the battery' current!)


    ignition switch issues usually mean it doesn't turn over as the 'start' position gets worn and doesn't make a good contact....
    Last edited by britlude; 19-06-2018 at 10:08 PM.
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  7. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hagasan View Post
    I'm wondering if you have a starter solenoid not disengaging properly and possibly shorting to earth and draining the battery. It might explain why the car wouldn't start again. Having said that though, have you checked the battery earth lead to the body for good continuity?
    It does sound like a short in the starter motor.

    It's got to be a big draw if it's dimming the dash lights after a re-start and the leads are getting hot. Unlikely to be a boom-tastic sound system.

    It might even be the alternator, if the bridge rectifier's fried and it's trying to be a starter motor.
    Nick



    “I find myself irresistibly attracted to cars that nobody else buys. The NSX is a classic of the genre because nobody buys it and yet it’s a fantastic car. It’s got a wonderful compactness and simplicity and unpretentiousness to it. Honda rudely continues to make them whether we like it or not, even though there can be no commercial logic in doing so — I thoroughly admire that.” Rowan Atkinson

  8. #48

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    OK, the story so far:

    I fully charged the battery, 12.6v, engaged the ignition key, disengaged the immobiliser, lights on the dash dimmed down quickly, tried to crank and nothing, not even a click.

    I disconnected the earth terminal got out my 12v bulb test light and connected accordingly, it lit up like an inspection lamp.

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    So I got out my ammeter, checked the current draw, a huge 2.42amps.

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    I then proceeded to disconnect individually the alternator feeds, heated rear window fuse, cigar lighter fuse, electric window fuses and any other fuses which have a heavy draw. The stick light still shining bright after each removal test.

    Any ideas please???
    Pride.

    1992 My beloved Red/Black manual NA1.😎
    1992 Chevy Lumina apv Rockford Fosgate sound system demo van.🙉
    2003 Hartge Mini Cooper S (2 x UK & 1 x European sound quality finals winner) 🏆 

    "The NSX's greatest victory was to WIN the 1995 Le Mans 24hr GT2 Class"
    ..............and guess what, it was a RED one but of course.  

  9. #49
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    Pulled relays yet??
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  10. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by britlude View Post
    Pulled relays yet??
    Yep.
    Heated rear window relay, the other relays I touched for any heat build up and listened with my blue-point stethoscope, all silent and cold.
    It's at times like this I wish I had your skills Britlude
    Last edited by Pride; 20-06-2018 at 09:18 PM.
    Pride.

    1992 My beloved Red/Black manual NA1.😎
    1992 Chevy Lumina apv Rockford Fosgate sound system demo van.🙉
    2003 Hartge Mini Cooper S (2 x UK & 1 x European sound quality finals winner) 🏆 

    "The NSX's greatest victory was to WIN the 1995 Le Mans 24hr GT2 Class"
    ..............and guess what, it was a RED one but of course.  

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