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Thread: My Honda battery seems to let go every 2 years. Any suggestions as to why???🤔

  1. #61
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    Well that's the good old England thrashing prediction out of the way maybe I should now try giving a good old fashioned thrashing to my NSX.

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    Apologies in advance Kaz if this thought upsets you.
    Pride.

    1992 My beloved Red/Black manual NA1.😎
    1992 Chevy Lumina apv Rockford Fosgate sound system demo van.🙉
    2003 Hartge Mini Cooper S (2 x UK & 1 x European sound quality finals winner) 🏆 

    "The NSX's greatest victory was to WIN the 1995 Le Mans 24hr GT2 Class"
    ..............and guess what, it was a RED one but of course.  

  2. #62
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    Sep 2005
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    any updates, or is the foozball getting in the way???
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    photobucket patch if you use chrome https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...fegnfnflicjjgj

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by britlude View Post
    any updates, or is the foozball getting in the way???
    All sorted now thanks Jon but how frustrating, annoying and even embarrassing this eventual cure was.

    After all the sodding about with goes along with checking for a big current draw it eventually turns out to be a completely duff brand new out of the box Honda battery.

    Due to the fact it came out of a sealed box from the main dealer the last thing on my mind would be to do a drop test on this battery, so psychologically I thought the battery would be 100% perfect.

    So after lengthy CTEK digital pulse charges I began to think my charger was faulty but it wasn't.
    The ammeter reading of a 4.25amp current draw was in fact 0.425amps as I had the gauge dial set on the wrong setting.

    That was discovered only after pulling relays, fuses disconnecting the alternator and checking earth straps, connections and plenty of frustrated head scratching and cursing as I'd also disconnected all the after market electric kit on the car, i.e. alarm, immobiliser, all the under car and over car lighting, amplifier and all associated audio devices connected to it such as Alpine screen, navigation, Bluetooth and old school iPod adapter which eventually brought it down to a more respectable 0.095amps.

    At this point with it still not turning the engine over, reading 11.85v fully charged, the green charge cell glowing brightly I reluctantly decided to do a drop test on it and BINGO!!! A completely factory fresh knackered battery.
    On phoning the dealer to tell them this news I was told it was impossible and the battery I'd returned 3 weeks earlier tested OK.
    I asked them how they tested it and they said because it was a sealed battery they could only go on the green glow through the battery inspection cell and a voltmeter which read 11.95v after a good charge. I asked if they'd done a drop test on it to which they said the parts department never do. So I told them to try cranking an engine over with it and it wouldn't do a thing.
    At that point I said I would be bringing back this faulty battery for a credit note to use on parts as an when required as I had already gone and bought a 5 year warranty YUASA battery and it's now fine.
    Moral of the story is never to believe because it's brand new and out of a factory box that it's perfect.
    The word frustration doesn't even start to explain my feelings 😡
    Here's hoping the England footie team don't play the same against the Croats tonight. 😁
    Pride.

    1992 My beloved Red/Black manual NA1.😎
    1992 Chevy Lumina apv Rockford Fosgate sound system demo van.🙉
    2003 Hartge Mini Cooper S (2 x UK & 1 x European sound quality finals winner) 🏆 

    "The NSX's greatest victory was to WIN the 1995 Le Mans 24hr GT2 Class"
    ..............and guess what, it was a RED one but of course.  

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Switzerland
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    Glad, you've sorted that out.

    If they're read 11.95V after a full charge they are 'on charge' IMO because it should have been clearly above 12.0 V, 12.8 V or so for a new lead battery if you let the battery sit for a hour after charging. The final voltage of the CTEC still connected doesn't mean anything at all. Recently my friend had it charged by a CTEC which resulted in a green light. But the battery was not able to turn the engine. Of course, you can always charge a dead battery but the green light doesn't mean anything at all in that peculiar case.

  5. #65
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    If you had 425mA of dark current, the issue was very likely to be within the system that you disconnected or it's still there but being disturbed by the circuit that you disconnected this time.
    Hope it will stay like that and won't hear the same issue in 2 years time….

    As mentioned in my earlier post, the green/black/red indicator on the battery case is relying on the specific gravity measurement.
    It can't detect increased internal resistance, internal failure, etc.

    And because of the design of these basic battery conditioners and the way they use the voltage sensing, even if it shows fully charged, your battery could fail cranking the engine.

    Still there are some questions not answered so I have a feeling that you have other issues but for now, glad you are back on the road.


    Kaz

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