Heater issue

[metsuki]

Hi everyone,

i finally have a new large place to work on the NSX, i can work on it at last

2 years ago i pulled out my ccu to check for caps leak and found minor traces. as everything work well i pulled everything back in and postpone the task.

i had a heater issue from about 6 month. no heat inside the car
today i pulled out for the second time my CCU just to find nothing had really changed. i changed all my caps anyway and hope my heater issue came from it. the plate was in very good shape and i just cleaned the traces with some alcohol. from what i can tell nothing had corroded the "rails" inside
this obviously did not solved my problem, and i still do not have any heat in the car.
the CCU diag give me an outside temp issue and air mix control motor issue.
my heater valve control cable do not move at all when i change the temp inside the car
when i disconect it from the control valve, i can move the control valve arm's and get hot air inside

everything else seems to work fine

here are all the pics from my CCU after cleaning and caps change











what caps are involved in moving the heater valve?
Can i check something on the board with a multimeter to be sure i made a good job changing my caps?



subsidiaries questions, why all those connector in the footwell area are not connected in my car (i already know the blue one is for diag)?


all the pics here https://photos.app.goo.gl/NvEDEb4ak4XOuSDu1

many thanks

[Pride]

To be totally truthful you are much better off to organise giving it to Kaz because I also thought many years ago that there was nothing wrong with my CCU board only for Kaz to replace leaking and faulty components which for the life of me I couldn't spot.

He then gave it a thorough test and a clean bill of health and bingo, and it's been working perfectly in my dash since.

It didn't cost the earth to do either you'll be pleased to know, certainly compared to the price of a new one at least.

[goldnsx]

Did you repair the broken traces as well besides replacing the caps?

If you can hold of a second unit you could compare it to your unit.

[metsuki]

there was no sign of any corroded or broken tracks. no electrolyte had made his way under the surface of the board.

please look at the picture and tell me? i think it is in pretty good shape

it is nearly impossible to find another CCU for testing, thats why i try to figure it out by myself.
do you think of any ways to diag a bad track or something wrong on the board with a multimeter?

[goldnsx]

I can't see the pictures.

[metsuki]

it is strange as i can see it in the thread and in the google link i post on numerous computers

[metsuki]

Hi everyone,

i finally have a new large place to work on the NSX, i can work on it at last

2 years ago i pulled out my ccu to check for caps leak and found minor traces. as everything work well i pulled everything back in and postpone the task.

i had a heater issue from about 6 month. no heat inside the car
today i pulled out for the second time my CCU just to find nothing had really changed. i changed all my caps anyway and hope my heater issue came from it. the plate was in very good shape and i just cleaned the traces with some alcohol. from what i can tell nothing had corroded the "rails" inside
this obviously did not solved my problem, and i still do not have any heat in the car.
the CCU diag give me an outside temp issue and air mix control motor issue.
my heater valve control cable do not move at all when i change the temp inside the car
when i disconect it from the control valve, i can move the control valve arm's and get hot air inside

everything else seems to work fine

here are all the pics from my CCU after cleaning and caps change










what caps are involved in moving the heater valve?
Can i check something on the board with a multimeter to be sure i made a good job changing my caps?



subsidiaries questions, why all those connector in the footwell area are not connected in my car (i already know the blue one is for diag)?


all the pics here https://photos.app.goo.gl/NvEDEb4ak4XOuSDu1

many thanks

idon't know why my post has been deleted

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Can't see your attached photo file but I did manage to visit your Google Photo album.

When pasting the link from Photo, you need to open it, right click while keeping your pointer on the image, select 'copy image location' and then paste it inside the image control window or the BB code [img]paste here[/img]

Please do not use the 'share' feature inside Photo to 'get link to the photo' feature as vBulletin requires the direct link and not hosted link method.
This is the reason why we can't see your photo.
You can see it because you are very likely to be logged into Google or your browser setting is keeping your login info cached.


I don't know whether all these photos were taken after you serviced the board or not but if you are saying that your circuit board is in good shape, I'm afraid you are better off sending it to someone who knows what they are doing.

There were so many shadows and reflections in your photo so not easy to tell but even under these poor condition, I can see big issues at several places on your board.

Because of this, there are so many possibilities for the cause of your issue so can't really recommend specific thing.
All I can say is to strip off all these heavily corroded section and check GND pad, tracks, etc to find the missing continuity.
You also need to check each components as some of them could be dead.
For your reference, when it comes to CCU board repair, replacing the capacitors is probably less than 10% of the total time required.
Majority of the time is being spent on other areas.


As for your question of all these connectors…
They are for the optional OEM keyless entry system with the interface to the OEM security system, ABS diag, SCS, etc.
I won't go into detail for the obvious reason.


Your original thread was deleted by you.
Probably you clicked on the wrong button???

As you are the OP and own the thread, you can edit, delete (but only in 'soft' mode) it.
Even if you delete it, it's only 'soft deleted' and the actual thread is still held on the server.
'Soft' deleted means that it's hidden from the public view but the actual thread is still there and can only be seen by those who has the right permission such as the administrator, etc.


If you want, the Admin can re-instate your original thread (I think I saw several replies from other members???) and merge my reply (this one) to it as well.


Kaz

[metsuki]

Thank you Kaz for the time you take to help me.

the only reason i did not send you this board was because i thought it was not in bad shape and i did not want to send it overseas if it was not necessary. my bad, i was wrong

as for the board shape, all the smuges you see on the back of the board are higly amplified by the light, this is just the heat of the iron on the laquer layer, it is not deep at all and definetly not touching the tracks.
on the front, i had 3 capacitor small leak. very easy to clean, it did not enter the board at all. i really do not see any rust on the board

you are right saying any other components could have gone bad, i can't tell.

I'll be glad to send you more pictures of the board if you need it before sending it

thanks thanks thanks

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, metsuki.

I also prefer not to send the board outside of UK as the package could go missing and CCU board is such an expensive parts.
Even within UK, I always return it to the owner with max insurance of upto GBP2,500 using Special Delivery service.
Normally, if you use international standard delivery, there will be almost none or just GBP50 insurance unless you pay for the expensive extra insurance.

Since you already started, please keep trying.











As mentioned, your photo was not ideal but even so, you can see the huge issues.

These photos are just a small section of your issues and you have many of them.....

Yellow arrow section means that you must strip off all the silk-markings (green, white bits) and expose the cupper surface.

Then, inspect each pads, tracks, etc.

Also, please check all the diodes, Tr, etc for any short circuits.

Blue arrows are pointing the suspicious marking but couldn't tell from your photo.




Your other photo showed suspicious trace around C10, C11, C14, C15, C22, C24, C32 but not clear enough.

The area C19 looked to be fine but please check.

Basically, from your photo, I think only the area around C17 looked to be fine.

My biggest concern is that the acid looked to be already reached some of the terminals of IC2.

The 4 x IC with big heat sink near C22, 24 and 32 are the motor driver IC so please pay extra attention to the tracks and pads around these three capacitors.









This is one of the circuit board I serviced in the past and would like to show how far you need to strip off the coating.

Basically, unless you remove all the contamination to this level to expose the copper plating, you won't be able to visually inspect the board.

And this is just the beginning and not even the cleaning process carried out so long way to go....


Good luck.

Kaz