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Thread: Type R in LBBP

  1. #31
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    The reason I want the paint code is to match the OE caps I have. I don't want to repaint them and have to make up new 'H' decals. I bought some 02 wheels from Sonic years ago and the Washi Gray centre caps were way off the darker painted wheels (looked naff), I believe the wheels were Quantum Gray.

    A while back I went to a paint shop to see if I could match the caps, I said I thought they were Pewter Gray but it looked way off...

  2. #32
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    in that case i'd be inclined to take the centre cap to the paint suppliers/powder coaters and get them to match the silver colour.... it doesn't matter what the code is, it could be a honda/renault/whatever code as long as it matches.

    silver in notorious for being a pain to match, and, just to add to the mix, even the application changes the colour.... put it in too heavy and the metal particles have time to flatten and lay down, this makes the colour darker.... put it on too lightly and the particles can stand on their edges, so the paint becomes more 'glittery', it is a pain!

    fortunately its only wheels and a centre cap, rather than a wing or door!
    Last edited by britlude; 18-02-2018 at 09:45 AM.
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  3. #33
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    Plastic center caps can't be powder coated, only painted. Even though I'm favoring powder coating I'd take the wheels to a paint shop. He should have more experience in matching colors. And if he really takes the time for matching the colors it should be 99% fine. The procedure of color matching takes only a fraction of the time of the whole preparing/painting process. So it doesn't cost much more to invest some more time to find the color.
    My painter says that Honda colors always have to be corrected regardless what the paint code is. While Mercedes colors are very accurate.
    My main criteria whenever I've to repaint something again IS: can I be part of the paint matching process? If the painter is sort of Raikkönen "Leave me alone, I know what I'm doing" I'd stay away. I'd rather pay 20-30% more for a better result.

    Have a look at these wheels of a 97. Even without having seen the center caps I've noticed at first sight that the color of these wheels is quite a bit off as I had a set of them in the same color in the past an knew what the color SHOULD look like.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    In addition to this: in the past I had a set of 16/17 where (only) one of the wheels has been repainted. Even a pro would not have found out which one. So it can be matched, no excuses, it's all about if the painter is willing and capable to do so. The argument is TRUE that silver is hard to match (who the particles lay etc.) but many times it's only an excuse or elusion if the painter didn't take his time...
    Last edited by goldnsx; 18-02-2018 at 10:48 AM.

  4. #34
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    Now understood you are after the colour code and not the name…

    BMW Silver: NH-606M (Asahi, アサヒ)

    Wahi Gray Metalic (ワシグレーメタリック) is from BBS Japan (Washi Beam/Mayer Co., Ltd. ワシマイヤー) and hence, the name 'Washi, ワシ'.
    Therefore, it's not Honda colour.
    However, according to Senninha's old post, it seems to be the same as Pewter Gray Metalic: NH-537M.

    If your centre cap or wheel have been exposed to UV ray, the top coat/finish will change over time so as others suggested, best to have it matched using the actual parts and not the colour code.
    Also, depending on the type of paint (water or solvent based), the finish/refelction will change depending on how long it took for the drying process.
    At Honda factory, because of the use of water based painting on our NSX, it on purposely allowed longer time for the drying process to force the metal flakes to be compacted (not sure the correct word in English...) in the same direction.
    Each outer panels had to be handled in specific position/angle to keep the metal flake angle in the same direction.
    The gravity played the big part so when you respray part of the body panel after leaving the factory, this is when the colour match becomes so difficult because the angle of the flake would be all over the place and thus, depending on the angle, the colour/reflection would look different.

    Kaz
    Last edited by Kaz-kzukNA1; 18-02-2018 at 12:18 PM. Reason: typo

  5. #35
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    Thanks to all for the input. Looking forward to getting them done.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shawnsx5 View Post
    It is not the same car but there is another very low mileage LBB NA2 R car for sale on a UK site checked. I made contact direct with the dealer, the price is £260,000 plus shipping, tax and import duty which will add 30-35% to get on the road in the UK. Same dealer has a standard LBB car at £140k again plus 30-35% extra to get on the road in the UK.
    The Tokyo R has black seats and red carpet, the Hong Kong R on Pistonheads has red seats and red carpet. The Tokyo R looks a bit, err different, because of this - all red looks more cohesive, so I'm not sure why it doesn't have black carpet!
    December '99 GH-NA2 110 series - 6AS62 Type S in Monte Carlo Blue Pearl

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