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Thread: Winter Chassis Re-fresh

  1. #1

    Default Winter Chassis Re-fresh

    I'm hoping people will be able to see this thread of my winter re-fresh, as this seems the only way I can share the photo record. I started last October, mainly just cleaning the underfloor and replacing anything broken, worn or in the case of steel parts, rusty. I'm not finished yet, just waiting for a few parts to arrive from Japan and then after a coolant change, the rebuild can commence. I'll add further pics,as I progress.

    Please ask any questions.



    https://goo.gl/photos/zwWVhENC98rw84rb8
    Wix

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Switzerland
    Posts
    793

    Default

    That's a lot of rust. Besides painting I'd put a thin coat of Gurulan PX11a (Vaseline + 10% bee wax, can be bought or mixed by oneself) on the parts that are prone to rust (except brakes of course).

  3. #3

    Default

    It looks worse than it is. I think lack of use and left outside by previous owner, allowed all the steel parts to get this rusty. Surprisingly, they've all cleaned up ok. I use Vactan and POR15 paint from Frosts. Any rust treatment that's required, I then use Dinitrol.

    Thanks for the tip of Gurulan PX11a, I'll look into it.
    Wix

  4. #4

    Default

    What did you use to clean the spare wheel holder? I have got mine out at the moment so would be a good opportunity to give it a good clean.

  5. #5

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    I used an assortment of wire brushes in an electric drill to clean most of the crud off. I then use wire wool, to take most of the shine off. All depends on what, if any, finish you want. I just wanted it cleaner than it was.
    Wix

  6. Default

    Pretty standard rust I think on a used car of that age. Cleaned up well!
    Formula Red NA2
    Imola Orange NA2
    Yellow NA2

  7. #7

    Default

    Cheers, nice job.

  8. #8

    Default

    It seems like I can now upload pics, thanks to the forum upgrade over the weekend, so here's some updates on progress.
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    Oil cooler top plate wasn't the best, so I've replaced whole unit. Changed the hoses and rear coolant pipe, as they were both showing their age and corrosion. I understand now why Kaz has said in one of his posts, this is a long and fiddly job.
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    Rear engine mounting was split, which probably explained the clutch judder. Took some aligning to get the centre bolt through, the engine must have shifted slightly on it's mountings, so it was out of position. I had to loosen all the other mountings and carefully jack the gearbox end up slightly to get it aligned. I've left them all loose, ready to torque them all up, now I've found the correct sequence.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Box of new bits awaiting fitment, mainly replacement fixings and brake caliper pistons.
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    Finally some new shiny bits to go on.
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    Wix

  9. #9

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    And one actually fitted.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wix

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Crawley
    Posts
    1,619

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wixer View Post
    And one actually fitted.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks good mate 👍, what make and model are they???
    Pride.

    1992 My beloved Red/Black manual NA1.😎
    1992 Chevy Lumina apv Rockford Fosgate sound system demo van.🙉
    2003 Hartge Mini Cooper S (2 x UK & 1 x European sound quality finals winner) 🏆 

    "The NSX's greatest victory was to WIN the 1995 Le Mans 24hr GT2 Class"
    ..............and guess what, it was a RED one but of course.  

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