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Thread: Winter Chassis Re-fresh

  1. #91

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    So the NSX tax bites back, as my 'little win' on the air-con, only requiring a couple of new shrader valves has now been offset by both the clutch master cylinder & brake master cylinder leaking.........

    I can't find any record of them being replaced previously, in the cars history, so if they are 30 years old & have lasted 188,000 miles, then that's pretty damn good in my book. I remember having to replace the seals on my old Minis & Metros, what seemed like every few months, so hopefully I'll never have to replace them again.

    Clutch unit replaced, brake cylinder on order from Amayama, so hopefully the car won't be off the road for long but if the weather changes as predicted, the S2000 will probably be more appropriate anyway.

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    Wix

  2. #92

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    Some pics of the brake master cylinder replacement. Had to give the servo a touch up of paint before fitting the new cylinder, due to the brake fluid having corroded the paint & a slight covering of rust.

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    Wix

  3. #93
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    Nice work.
    Hard to tell from your photo but hope you removed the rubber gasket before the touch up.

    If the master cyl was leaking, behind the gasket is where the brake fluid and the rust would sit.
    Very rare but with the worst one I saw in the past, the fluid was actually held inside the booster.

    Kaz

  4. #94

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    Yes Kaz, I removed the old gasket/seal before painting.

    The cylinder was obviously leaking for a while but the brakes felt ok but now with a new cylinder I would say the pedal feel is firmer & the brakes feel a little sharper, as a result. I suspect, as there was a small leak of fluid, there would have been small amounts of air possibly getting into the cylinder causing the slight spongy-ness of the pedal feel.

    Now back to fix the Air-Con, as it has stopped getting cold, again..... I suspect the evaporator matrix in the main HEVAC unit.... At least I had a months worth of cold air comfort.....

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1 View Post
    Nice work.
    Hard to tell from your photo but hope you removed the rubber gasket before the touch up.

    If the master cyl was leaking, behind the gasket is where the brake fluid and the rust would sit.
    Very rare but with the worst one I saw in the past, the fluid was actually held inside the booster.

    Kaz
    Wix

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by wixer View Post
    .................

    Now back to fix the Air-Con, as it has stopped getting cold, again..... I suspect the evaporator matrix in the main HEVAC unit.... At least I had a months worth of cold air comfort.....
    Seems like you are chasing multiple A/C issues one at a time or you still have some leakage.
    If it was fine for a month, I hope it's not evaporator related.

    I believe you don't have the manifold gauge.

    The RS24, R12a, etc are mixed/blended refrigerant so if leaked, the mixture ratio would change.

    As a quick refrigerant level check, take a look at the sight glass on the drier/receiver while keeping the engine rpm above 1,000 - 1,500rpm and the CCU at freezing cold setting.
    Ideally, you want doing this check on a very hot day as the exp. valve continuously changes its needle port diameter altering the pressure but at least, you can see whether you have low refrigerant or not as long as you can engage the compressor.

    Kaz

  6. #96
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    Dec 2007
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    Switzerland
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    Quote Originally Posted by wixer View Post
    Now back to fix the Air-Con, as it has stopped getting cold, again..... I suspect the evaporator matrix in the main HEVAC unit.... At least I had a months worth of cold air comfort.....
    Sounds like a bigger leak. You've mentioned that it hold pressure after changing valves etc. Have you ever changed all (accessible) o-rings? If not you'll be faced with a long-running problem with your A/C system.

  7. #97

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1 View Post
    As a quick refrigerant level check, take a look at the sight glass on the drier/receiver while keeping the engine rpm above 1,000 - 1,500rpm and the CCU at freezing cold setting.
    Ideally, you want doing this check on a very hot day as the exp. valve continuously changes its needle port diameter altering the pressure but at least, you can see whether you have low refrigerant or not as long as you can engage the compressor.

    Kaz
    I'll give this a go Kaz but the cold pipe (in the front end), which I believe is from the compressor, is no longer cold to the touch. When the air-con was briefly working, it would get cold enough, that you couldn't hold your hand on it, so until I get another pressure check, I pretty convinced the gas has escaped again.

    And to Golds point, I haven't changed all O rings so, I think this winter I will probably rebuild the rest of the system.
    Wix

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