ABS removal

[Pride]

Honda Chiswick did it for me while I waited for a couple of hours from memory.

[paulc]

Honda Chiswick did it for me while I waited for a couple of hours from memory.

Many thanks might give the local garage a shout and see what they can do.

Regards

Paul

[Pride]

Many thanks might give the local garage a shout and see what they can do.

Regards

Paul

Just make sure they can pressure bleed them:

http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/entry.php?189...ing-Sys-etc-28

[britlude]

Is the removal easy? Think mine is giving up the ghost, lots of air forcing the brake fuild to be pushed out of the cap!

I take it the fluid is coming out of the ABS reservoir cap, in which case pressure bleeding the system won't help, they are separate systems

if the solnoids/ABS hasn't been exercised for some time, they might be stuck, and will need energising a few times to see if they can free themselves....

try this... http://danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/abs/abs.htm

you don't necessarily need the maintenance bleeder to do it, but measuring the volume of fluid that is released will give an indication of the accumulators condition. if you are a competent mechanic, it can be done with a 9mm cranked 12 point spanner and a tube to a container on the bleed nipple 'maintenance bleeder' but BE VERY CAREFUL as it's under high pressure. if in doubt energising the solenoids releases the pressure anyway....

[Pride]

In that case I stand corrected but it's strange I had no more similar problems after it was bled though.

[mutley]

Hi, Jim.

I'm quite sure the S2K dash conversion kit has some sort of instruction to cope with the different ABS warning circuit used based on NSX year models.
There are at least 3 different circuits.

Following info may help you.

S2K ABS dash warning light circuit is nothing special.
It uses IG1 for the power and uses RC circuit with about 2sec time constant for light bulb check mode.

If the capacitor is charged, it will switch On the Zennor diode connected to the Tr base and this will enable the collector current resulting in ABS warning light.
So, if you want to keep the ABS light On, you just need to create open circuit at the WALP line of the S2K dash so that the capacitor is always charged.

If you want to switch it Off, you need to keep the capacitor discharged.
Just drop the WALP line to GND using the WARN circuit on the classic ABS controller.
It will take about 2sec to switch it off and hence, used for the light bulb check mode.

With classic ABS controller and the ABS warning light circuit configuration on 91 – 94 NSX,
the logic is reversed so if you just connect the WALP line of the S2K dash to the WARN terminal of the classic ABS controller,
it will continuously switch On the ABS light in about 1sec after turning the IG key into P2 or after starting the engine even if no ABS issue is detected.

You just need to reverse the logic and use NC (Normally Closed) type relay.
91 – 94, 95 - 96 and 97+ models use different ABS warning light circuit and above method is only for the 91 -94 one.


For your headlight issue, if both headlights don’t retract themselves,
then please first check the state of your retractor switch located at the right side below the gauge assy.





This photo is not the retractor switch but it showed another issue for the same reason.

Please make sure that there is no gap between the connector housing and the circuit board indicated by the green arrows.
If there is even a tiny gap there, it will cause open circuit that you can pop up the headlight but it won’t retract.

If the diode inside the retractor motor is dead, it will cause the same issue but when this happens, it’s very likely to be at just one side and not at both sides.


Kaz

Thanks Kaz, I'll try and have a proper look at it when I get time. IS there a way to short the connector before the switch to miss out the switch altogether? I don't really need the switch to work if by bypassing the switch would make them operate normally with the headlight switch.

Cheers
Jim

[paulc]

I take it the fluid is coming out of the ABS reservoir cap, in which case pressure bleeding the system won't help, they are separate systems

if the solnoids/ABS hasn't been exercised for some time, they might be stuck, and will need energising a few times to see if they can free themselves....

try this... http://danoland.com/nsxgarage/brakes/abs/abs.htm

you don't necessarily need the maintenance bleeder to do it, but measuring the volume of fluid that is released will give an indication of the accumulators condition. if you are a competent mechanic, it can be done with a 9mm cranked 12 point spanner and a tube to a container on the bleed nipple 'maintenance bleeder' but BE VERY CAREFUL as it's under high pressure. if in doubt energising the solenoids releases the pressure anyway....

Many thanks, yes the fuild is coming out of the reservoir cap. I suspect/know that the solnoids/ABS have not been exercised for a long time, so will have a go at energising them.