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Thread: cruise control switch relocation

  1. Default cruise control switch relocation

    hello all,

    I have relocated the cruise control switch to the centre console as I have an aftermarket steering wheel.



    I have already ran the cabling to the cruise control unit behind the glovebox (I wanted to leave everything as it was on the steering wheel) and have put on a female plug and harness onto the cruise control button here:



    I have been reading through various past threads, but as I have a below average intelligence, I cant seem to understand what I need to do.

    In this thread, post 3, the master Kaz says "by placing a momentary switch between pin #3 and #1 (high level) will act as the ‘SET’ function for the Cruise Control and the same scheme between pin #2 and #1 to act as ‘RESUME’ function."

    http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.php?6367-2002-Type-R-Steering-wheel-with-OEM-boss

    So studying the manual, specifically the diagram for the cruise control.



    I cannot figure out which wire is the ones I need to connect to my button, obviously the black wire on my button is ground (which i can find on the cruise control unit), and the two reds are for the 12v but I'm trying to understand where on the cruise control do I take them from.

    Do i just wire the "set" side to the "lt grn/red" wire and the "resume" side to the "lt grn/blk"

    Any help would be greatly appreciated

    cheers
    Last edited by hkz286; 26-01-2017 at 06:07 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Default

    if i read it correctly, you are 'replacing' or replicating the cruise control wiring to the oem switch unit mounted in the centre console.

    on the wiring diagram you posted, the switches are the 'set/resume switch' box in the middle of the diagram, the common feed coming into the switch block via the blue/red wire (c) and going to both switches, the switch them making the contact and giving an output going to the cruise control unit thru wires 'lt green/red' (a) and 'lt green/black' (b)

    Kaz's thread post 3 http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.ph...-with-OEM-boss '1', '2', and '3' refer to the pinout of the connector that goes to the cable reel behind the steering wheel
    without checking, it look likes

    pin 1 goes to the horn, AND acts as supply for the cruise control switches,
    pin 2 is the signal back from the 'resume' switch
    pin 3 is the signal back from the 'set' switch
    pin 4 and pin 6 are the airbag SRS feedback loop, shorted to avoid SRS errors if the airbag is removed.

    i'd double check that those colours are the way you said in your post, the diagram implies it, 'set' and 'lt green/red' both on the left, etc.

    your 'black' wire is not 'obviously' ground, it's just a black wire.... yes (c) on the diagram goes to the horn switch, which we presume is to earth, to fire the horn relay, and then the horns sound, but it's ground ONLY when the horn is pressed. at all other times it's tied voltage high by the relay coil.


    so you need 3 wires,

    1 from the horn (blu/red) to your switch common connection
    1 from your set switch to the cruise control unit (lt red/green)
    1 from your resume switch to the cruise control unit (lt green/black)



    what wires have you run to behind the glove box? all that went to the cable reel behind the steering wheel? in which case you'll have no horn, and will get an SRS light up on your dash....??
    Last edited by britlude; 26-01-2017 at 06:54 PM.
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  3. Default

    that all makes sense now, thanks for that.

    So if I were to use the horn supply as my 12v source, then presumably, from that diagram, I can pick up the "grn/wht" wire at the control unit (top left in the diagram) or basically any other constant supply of 12v when the ignition is switched on? (I understand the horn will have a constant supply with the ignition of but I cant see that would be required for the cruise control)

    cheers again for the response

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Default

    in theory yes, but the switch is supplied on the downstream side of the horn relay..... this might have just been for convenience, by the designers, at the cable reel end of things, but it does add in a safety resistance/current limit for the switched supply into the cruise control.

    not knowing how they set up the control board, the input voltage levels, impedance etc, i'd be inclined to replicate the original layout.

    if you want to tap into the horn upstream supply, i'd fit a resistor of the same value as the resistance of the horn relay coil, just to be sure!

    for the sake of 10p, i'd rather add a resistor than have to ask honda for a new cruise control computer!
    Last edited by britlude; 26-01-2017 at 09:14 PM.
    aka Jonathan!!

    '92 charlotte green auto.... as a daily
    '37 Ford Y street rod......... something for the weekend!

    ...... if a photobucket pic is foggy, click it, and it'll take you to the clear version, yes, it's a clicking faff....

  5. #5
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    Default

    All you need is the high side signal at the 'SET' or 'RESUME' input terminal at the Cruise Control Unit (CC unit) so just grab your multimeter and find a wire that shows 12V.
    Considering the usage and the location of your CC switch, probably best using the ACC or IG power but it can be the BAT power as well.

    As you have 'HALF' height ANT (aerial, antenna) SW at the centre console, I believe it's JDM.
    There is 12V BAT 15A fused wire at the Front Fog light SW, next to your CC SW.
    I think it's the YEL/WHT wire but very tight space so you may struggle breaking into that wire with parking brake lever and dashboard centre piece there.

    You can also use the IG 15A fused wire at the CC Relay mounted on the vertical silver metal bracket just in front of the shift lever.
    There are two relays mounted on there and I think it’s the one on the right side.
    Again, just grab your multimeter and turn the IG key into P2 to find the IG power. I think it's the YEL wire.

    The CC SW is momentary analogue SW so the I/F circuit on the CC Unit shall have SW chattering filter so just use any high side signal wire nearby.


    Kaz

  6. #6

    Default

    7 years ago I did this conversion, was pretty straight forward from memory. Only difficult thing was recollection and moulding the panel.
    “Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth.”

    後は、残っているものに関係なく、不可能なことを排除する方法 ありそうもない、真実でなければなりません。

  7. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by britlude View Post
    in theory yes, but the switch is supplied on the downstream side of the horn relay..... this might have just been for convenience, by the designers, at the cable reel end of things, but it does add in a safety resistance/current limit for the switched supply into the cruise control.

    not knowing how they set up the control board, the input voltage levels, impedance etc, i'd be inclined to replicate the original layout.

    if you want to tap into the horn upstream supply, i'd fit a resistor of the same value as the resistance of the horn relay coil, just to be sure!

    for the sake of 10p, i'd rather add a resistor than have to ask honda for a new cruise control computer!
    cheers for that will keep it in mind.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaz-kzukNA1 View Post
    All you need is the high side signal at the 'SET' or 'RESUME' input terminal at the Cruise Control Unit (CC unit) so just grab your multimeter and find a wire that shows 12V.
    Considering the usage and the location of your CC switch, probably best using the ACC or IG power but it can be the BAT power as well.

    As you have 'HALF' height ANT (aerial, antenna) SW at the centre console, I believe it's JDM.
    There is 12V BAT 15A fused wire at the Front Fog light SW, next to your CC SW.
    I think it's the YEL/WHT wire but very tight space so you may struggle breaking into that wire with parking brake lever and dashboard centre piece there.

    You can also use the IG 15A fused wire at the CC Relay mounted on the vertical silver metal bracket just in front of the shift lever.
    There are two relays mounted on there and I think it’s the one on the right side.
    Again, just grab your multimeter and turn the IG key into P2 to find the IG power. I think it's the YEL wire.

    The CC SW is momentary analogue SW so the I/F circuit on the CC Unit shall have SW chattering filter so just use any high side signal wire nearby.


    Kaz
    once again, your the master and thanks for the input, its very much appreciated. I shall find a suitable source that is the neatest for this setup.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sudesh View Post
    7 years ago I did this conversion, was pretty straight forward from memory. Only difficult thing was recollection and moulding the panel.
    yup its your fault I did it this way I always give you credit if anyone ever asks about it

  8. #8

    Default

    I did this mod for Andrew, he liked NSX-R steering wheel but want to keep cruise, so I did this mod back in 2007
    “Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth.”

    後は、残っているものに関係なく、不可能なことを排除する方法 ありそうもない、真実でなければなりません。

  9. #9

    Default

    Yup and still working well
    "The value of life can be measured by how many times you soul has been deeply stirred" - Soichiro Honda

  10. #10

    Default

    Thanks Andrew, and as you you know, if Any issues I will repair Free. It was you big man, that challenged me to do this desiine.
    “Once you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, must be the truth.”

    後は、残っているものに関係なく、不可能なことを排除する方法 ありそうもない、真実でなければなりません。

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