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Thread: My gearbox revision thread

  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pride View Post
    Hi goldnsx, sorry to see you had a tough day but so far your repair thread looks amazing, you're obviously a competent automotive engineer/mechanic.

    I'm just about to replace my complete clutch assy including new fork, release bearing and its guide shaft.
    How much urea grease did you manage to put into the release bearing groove before you felt it was a sufficient amount???

    Also what do you mean by "initialise" the clutch before mounting the transmission???

    Cheers.
    Hi Pride

    A 'normal' mechanic would have filled the groove of the release bearing by the SM and wouldn't think about it. Well, it's not his car. I watched a lot of videos on youtube and all say that too much is bad. The release bearing fits tight on its guide (but slides without any resistance of course) that it only holds a small film of UREA grease on the guide except for the groove in the release bearing itself. First, I've put a small film (barely visible) of UREA grease on the guide. Then, I've filled the groove and took care that it was only slightly more than expected. I then tried to catch any overmuch grease with my flat finger around the inside of the release bearing but not too deep in there, just until the groove where you don't want to remove the grease again. This procedure has been done from both sides of the release bearing. I then testfitted it on the guide. It looked like in pic 3 in #42. At the end you can see a ring of green UREA grease which I wipped off in the end. Not sure what Kaz would recommend here? When I took the release bearing off the guide. After this the groove looked like in pic 1 in #42. The grease in the groove seems to be 'sucked' out of the groove partially.

    ATR
    Yes, I forgot the bloddy release bearing fork. Asylum forgot it, I forgot it. I hope Pride won't forget it too. Will have to take the gearbox off again, initialize the clutch, mount the fork and on we go with a second attempt to fit the gearbox on the engine.

    Initializing the clutch
    See 12-16 in the SM. After you've installed the clutch you screw in three small screws (I guess the ones of the cover, well not too long as you have to turn the flywheel for this procedure) in the flywheel from the engine side by hand until they touch. Then you turn the screws by 180 degrees +-30. I recall that if you have done that on one screw the others are very light then. It looked like the mid plate moved parallel to the trans side.

    Happy motoring!

  2. Default

    Years ago I forgot the fork too, LOL! It's a experience every one has to make it seems. :p

    Why did'nt Honda just made a wider hole?!
    Largest stocking of used NSX parts in Europe & many service parts in stock. parts inquiry: office@atr-racing.com / phone +43 676 5458032

  3. #53
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    Pics for the initialization of the clutch

    The M5 bolt drilled in by hand until it touches the midplate.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    With a wrench turn 180 degrees. You have to do that on all three bolts. I was wrong you can't use the ones from the cover (M6).
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I had to buy M5 but even these were too long. So I had to cut them. Just make sure you that the bolts doesn't interfere with the oil pan.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  4. #54
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    Horray! It's installed (within 30 minutes or so).

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I lifted up the engine by about 5 mm and loosened the front engine mounting at little bit more which interfered with the gearbox. Finally it slid it without the effort I had yesterday. Fork installed for sure now. Very helpful was the lift with it's fine adjustability until the gearbox is absolutely parallel to the engine. The engine tilts a little bit down. So you have to lift the gearbox the more the closer it gets to the engine.

    I already fitted the screws and torque them handtight. Just wondering why the SM wants me to torque them finally after 20 more steps. I was about to torque them right now. Any thoughts on that?

  5. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by goldnsx View Post
    Intermediate shaft

    Pressing out the bearing:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    new one in:
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    new seals and grease and finished:
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    Intermediate Shaft Bearing is commercially available???

  6. #56
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    I've just ordered the Honda part from their catalog. Bearing plus two seals.

    Another topic: in the SM on page 5-29 it says: torque the engine mounting bolts in sequenze shown below. Maybe I'm blind but I don't see a sequence on page 5-29. My idea was to loosen all the central bolts of these four engine mounts, wiggle the engine by hands a little bit and torque them down. Ideas on this?

  7. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by goldnsx View Post
    Pics for the initialization of the clutch

    The M5 bolt drilled in by hand until it touches the midplate.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2577.JPG 
Views:	145 
Size:	49.1 KB 
ID:	12853

    With a wrench turn 180 degrees. You have to do that on all three bolts. I was wrong you can't use the ones from the cover (M6).
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2579.JPG 
Views:	137 
Size:	56.3 KB 
ID:	12854

    I had to buy M5 but even these were too long. So I had to cut them. Just make sure you that the bolts doesn't interfere with the oil pan.
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	144 
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ID:	12855
    Did you fit a complete OEM clutch kit, if so should it not come with new bolts in the kit for this job??
    Pride.

    1992 My beloved Red/Black manual NA1.😎
    1992 Chevy Lumina apv Rockford Fosgate sound system demo van.🙉
    2003 Hartge Mini Cooper S (2 x UK & 1 x European sound quality finals winner) 🏆 

    "The NSX's greatest victory was to WIN the 1995 Le Mans 24hr GT2 Class"
    ..............and guess what, it was a RED one but of course.  

  8. #58
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    Yes and no. No screws in the new OEM full kit included.

  9. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by goldnsx View Post
    I've just ordered the Honda part from their catalog. Bearing plus two seals.

    Another topic: in the SM on page 5-29 it says: torque the engine mounting bolts in sequenze shown below. Maybe I'm blind but I don't see a sequence on page 5-29. My idea was to loosen all the central bolts of these four engine mounts, wiggle the engine by hands a little bit and torque them down. Ideas on this?
    I have Acura Service Manuals 1997
    page 5-13
    "Reinstal the mount bolts/nuts in the folllowing sequence.Failure to follow these procedure may cause excessive noise and vibration, and reduce bushing life.
    1.Install the rear mount,then tighten the bolts on the transmission side.Note .Do not tighten the mountig bolt.
    2.Install the front mount,then tighten the bolts in the numered sequence as shown.First Bolts front mount (3 pieces) Second mounting bolt (lange)

    ..........

  10. #60
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    Do you have a scan of that page you can send me or post here?

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