ABS and TCS lights on

[Graham]

Well, there I wasdriving along, about 200 or 300 yards from home when the car gave aslight shudder and the ABS light came on and then another slightshudder and the TCS light came on. Rats! I checked the tyre pressuresand got them both 33 psi at the front and both 40 psi at the rear,tried it again and the same result. So chaps, I was wondering if Imight ask for a bit of advice.


Could this beanything other then the wheel speed sensors?


As I've replaced thefront two sensors within the last few years and only done a couple ofthousand miles since, I'm thinking it's the one of the rears. Anyoneknow a trick to find out which one?


By now I'm sure after twenty five years they are wellstuck in with corrosion. Anyone know a way of getting them outwithout taking the suspension assembly off the drive shaft andknocking them out from the inside?


I have a spare leftrear sensor but not one for the right rear. An American friend ofmine sent some over the pond for me some years back, but couldn't getthe right rear. He was told they (Acura) don't spare one. Anyone knowwhy or if they are available?


A lot of questions.Sorry. I'm a bit gutted my little beauty has gone wrong. Car is a '93according to the registration but Kaz thinks it's a '91 due to theVIN number. Either way, the same design.


Any help would begreatly appreciated.


Graham

[goldtop]

Rear brake light problem? I know it sounds bizarre, but this is what happened on my NSX. Brake light blows, warning light for that shows up and then after a bit of driving the TCS and ABS lights are on!

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Graham.

Please read the error code first.
http://www.nsxcb.co.uk/showthread.ph...the-error-code

If not sure how to decode the lights, please take video and upload it somewhere or you can contact me through Skype, etc with video calling.

Since you triggered both the ABS and TCS lights, very likely to be one of the wheel speed sensor but after you read the error code, please reset them by pulling the 'ABS2,3' 20A fuse inside the pentagonal relay box under the bonnet/hood and carry out another test driving session.
It should trigger the same ABS and TCS error codes.

Unless you have mechanical failure, you can drive with ABS/TCS lights on the dash but please note that both features are disabled until you fix the cause of issue.

The RR sensor for the early model is discontinued. That’s why your friend couldn’t get it.
However, the one for the later model can be used on the early model.
You just need to bend one of the small metal bracket in different direction and that’s the only difference.
Done that many times.
Please use parts # 57470-SL0-020 instead.

Kaz

[Graham]

Thanks Kaz and Goldtop,
I'll check the brake lights tomorrow, although the dashboard light for that doesn't come on, and then I'll have a go at reading the diagnostics.
That explains the unavailability of the RR sensor.
I'm really not that bad at typing, some of the spaces in my text have been removed by the copy/paste and it has joined up some words. Sorry.
If it is the sensors I'm dreading trying to change them.
Graham

[Graham]

Goldtop,

Both brake lights work so might be the fault you suggested. Thanks for the thought though.

Kaz,

Diagnostics read three long and six short. So thirty six? (Thought they were all supposed to be short for the early ABS), anyway, TCFC signal? There's a trouble shoot on page 19-102 I'll follow.

Where would I find the TCS control unit please? Picture on 19-74 shows it at the rear of the car. Is it in the engine bay or behind the seats in the cabin? Errr, actually I think I'll read the whole of chapter 19 before I do anything else.

Graham

[Graham]

Sorry Goldtop, perhaps my typing is that bad. I meant might NOT be the fault you suggested. Doh!

[goldtop]

No worries - was hoping it was something simple. Hope it's sorted soon.

[Graham]

Kaz,

I'm a bit wiser with reading error codes now having read the chapter in the manual.

The check engine light flashes:- 3 long and 6 short - TCFC signal?

The ALB light flashes:- 4 short and 4 short - RR sensor? This code stops flashing after 2 cycles

The TCS light flashes:- 4 long and 4 short - RR sensor?

Looks like it's the sensor I haven't got and the hardest to fit. Would a bad sensor result in a TCFC signal error?

Perhaps we should PM now to stop boring the others.

Graham

[Kaz-kzukNA1]

Hi, Graham.
As there are some information that may be of use for other owners, I'll just reply this time here and then we can switch to email.
Both of us already have the email address and mobile no.

You will get CEL #36 if you disable the TCS (like my NSX. I always get code #36 but it has to trigger consecutive 2 failures during each engine start and since there is no TCS controller connected, it can only happen once and thus, no CEL), weak battery, jump starting, etc or problem with the Main Relay and also at the time of sudden hesitation.

Just reset the ECU by pulling the 7.5A CLOCK fuse from the same location as the ALB2,3 fuse, start the engine, test driving and read the code again. Probably, no more CEL #36 as I believe you triggered it when you felt the hesitation due to ALB/TCS #44 code.

I’m afraid ALB #4-4 and TCS 44 are for the RR w/speed sensor.
However, before placing the order and replacing it, please double check the 22pin connector inside the boot.







It’s located left forward section of the boot behind the carpet.


Please check each terminal and look for any corrosion inside the FEMALE terminal.
Ideally, you want to use the mating terminal and go through all of the female terminal to check the pressure resistance when inserting it.
You may find one or both of the female terminals for RR w/speed sensor signal were damaged and causing the ALB/TCS light.

If it’s RR sensor failure, chances are, the sensor head is seized inside the hub carrier due to oxidation.
Removing the rear sensor is not easy once this happens because you have sensor trigger teeth on the drive shaft joint housing so you need to somehow pull out the sensor head without damaging the trigger teeth.

If you can remove the spindle nut and slide the drive shaft spline out enough (no need to separate completely out of the hub), you can punch out the sensor head.


Kaz

[Graham]

Thanks Kaz, I'll try the connector tomorrow. Only just read this as my broadband has been down all afternoon.

I checked the resistance of the RR sensor this morning; it was 936 ohms. Seemed within the limit of 750 to 1200 ohms.

More tomorrow,

Graham